{"title":"Browse the Tools","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"cartridge-bottom-bracket-tool","title":"20 Tooth Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool - 1671.1\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 20-tooth splined cartridge bottom bracket pre-dates the modern external-bearing convention by a decade. Square-taper, Shimano Octalink, ISIS Drive, and most other internal-cartridge BBs from the late-1990s through the mid-2000s all use the same 20-tooth splined interface for removal. The 1671.1\/4 is the dedicated socket for that interface, sized to drive cleanly with a 1\/2″ ratchet or an adjustable wrench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor any bike still running an internal-cartridge BB rather than an outboard-bearing BB, this is the socket the work calls for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInsert the 1671.1\/4 into the BB's splined recess until all 20 splines mesh fully. Press home; partial seating skips and rounds the cup splines on the first hard turn. Drive with a 1\/2″ ratchet, an adjustable wrench against the body, or a torque wrench when the manufacturer's spec calls for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe socket has wrench flats on its body for an adjustable-wrench drive. For benchtop use where a torque-controlled install matters, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cartridge-bottom-bracket-wrench\"\u003eCartridge Bottom Bracket Wrench (1671.8\/2BI-US)\u003c\/a\u003e combines the same 20-tooth socket with an integrated 350 mm handle and a spring-loaded retaining screw that prevents the socket from cam-out during high-torque pulls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrive side on most cartridge BBs is right-hand thread (loosens counter-clockwise). A few older Italian-thread frames are reverse threaded; check the BB markings before applying force.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSquare-taper cartridge BBs (Shimano UN-series, FSA Square-Taper, Race Face Square-Taper, generic JIS \/ ISO)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano Octalink V1 and V2 cartridge BBs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eISIS Drive cartridge BBs (Truvativ Howitzer, Race Face X-Type ISIS, FSA ISIS-drive)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMost other 20-tooth splined cartridge BBs from the 1995–2007 era\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel, hardened\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e chrome-plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrive interface:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1\/2″ square drive on the back face; wrench flats on the body for adjustable-wrench drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpline count:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20-tooth (industry standard for cartridge BBs)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1671.1\/4 is hardened tool steel because the splines have to hold their shape across the full life of an older bike's BB-service history; the spline geometry on a worn cartridge can already be marginal, and a tool that adds wear to the cup is the wrong tool for the call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common cartridge-BB-removal failure is cam-out under load. The socket lifts a few millimetres out of the splined recess; the splines disengage; the next half-turn rounds both the cup and the tool. Either hold the socket pressed firmly into the cup with one hand while turning with the other, or use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cartridge-bottom-bracket-wrench\"\u003eCartridge Bottom Bracket Wrench (1671.8\/2BI-US)\u003c\/a\u003e, which has a spring-loaded retaining screw built into the body to prevent exactly this failure mode.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the cartridge-era BB removal procedure plus the cleanup-and-regrease step that prevents the next install from creaking: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/replace-or-clean-your-hollowtech-ii-bottom-bracket\"\u003eReplace or clean your bottom bracket →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378789519404,"sku":"616068","price":26.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1671.1_4.jpg?v=1642713039"},{"product_id":"ratchet","title":"Ratchet Wrench 3\/8\"","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 3\/8\" drive ratchet is the working bench's most-used socket tool. Bottom-bracket sockets, cassette lockring tools, the suspension top-cap socket, the BSA bottom-bracket cup wrench; most of the bike-specific socket inventory accepts a 3\/8\" square drive. A working shop that owns one ratchet first owns a 3\/8\" before adding the 1\/2\" or 1\/4\" later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 3\/8\" Ratchet Wrench has 75 pawls and a 4.8° engagement angle. The 4.8° matters in close quarters: in a tight space where you can only swing the handle 10° at a time, a coarse-engagement ratchet (with 8–10° per click) leaves you wondering whether the next click will engage in time. The 75-pawl mechanism clicks twice per 10° swing, which keeps the work moving without lost motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe body is drop-forged chrome-vanadium, machined to spec, chrome plated, and assembled in the same forging-and-finishing line that produces the rest of Unior's ratchet family. The 200 mm handle length gives the leverage most bicycle-mechanic work calls for; for jobs that need heavier leverage (pedal removal at full breakaway torque), the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-190-1-1abi-us-copy-copy\"\u003e1\/2\" version\u003c\/a\u003e is the right choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the 3\/8\" handles\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBottom bracket cup install at manufacturer-spec torque (paired with a 16-notch or 8-notch BB socket)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCassette lockring removal (paired with a Shimano\/SRAM-pattern lockring tool, with the chain whip on the cassette)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSuspension top-cap socket use (with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/suspension-top-cap-socket-anodized-aluminium-26\"\u003ealuminum-anodized top cap socket\u003c\/a\u003e)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHub axle nut work on quick-release and through-axle hubs where the nut is 15–22 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor smaller fasteners and bit-socket work, switch to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-190-1-1abi-us-copy\"\u003e1\/4\" ratchet\u003c\/a\u003e. For heavier-torque work, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-190-1-1abi-us-copy-copy\"\u003e1\/2\" ratchet\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3\/8\" square drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e75 pawls, 4.8° engagement angle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e200 mm handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrop-forged chrome-vanadium body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eChrome plated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDouble-component handle (hard core for torque, soft outer for grip)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 190.1\/1ABI-US (3\/8\" variant)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 190.1 ratchet line is forged in Zreče from chrome-vanadium blanks, machined to spec on-site, chrome plated through Unior's own finishing process, and assembled in the same facility. Most ratchet brands assemble in the same country; few forge, machine, finish, and assemble at a single location.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single best diagnostic for a worn ratchet: hold it in one hand and slow-spin the head in the engagement direction. A clean ratchet feels smooth; a worn one catches and skips. The 75-pawl mechanism in the 190.1 holds smooth through years of working-shop use because the pawls have enough engagement area to share the load. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers ratchets and the rest of the workshop tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"3\/8\"","offer_id":41189125455916,"sku":"629378","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/190.1_1abi-us.jpg?v=1642728248"},{"product_id":"standard-shimano-octalink-and-isis-crank-puller-with-handle","title":"Square Taper \u0026 Splined Crank Puller w\/Handle - 1661.3\/4P-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1661\/4 in our catalogue is the bench puller: combined square taper plus splined-adapter coverage on a body designed for a separate wrench. The 1661.3\/4P-US is the same logic packaged for field service: an integrated 6.5″ handle bolted permanently to the puller body, no separate 17 mm wrench in the kit, no fishing through a tool roll for the right open-end. Pick this up, thread it in, turn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between the two is workflow. If a torque wrench or socket lives next to the bench, the 1661\/4 lets the bench wrench drive the puller and saves the integrated handle's bulk. If the puller travels (race-day pit, mobile-mechanic kit, garage workshop without a dedicated wrench wall), the 1661.3\/4P-US is what gets the crank off without a second tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRemove the crank centre bolt first (14 mm or 15 mm hex on square-taper cranks; 8 mm hex on most splined cranks). For square-taper cranks with a dust cap, pry or unscrew the cap before threading in the puller; pulling against the cap rather than the threaded crank arm strips threads on the first try.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThread the 1661.3\/4P-US into the crank arm's puller threads, hand-tight, then snug with the integrated handle. The handle gives 6.5″ of leverage; enough to break free a stuck crank without needing a cheater bar in most cases. Turn the centre rod clockwise; the rod drives against the spindle face and pushes the crank arm outward.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor ISIS Drive and Shimano Octalink cranks, slide the included splined adapter onto the centre rod before threading in. The adapter prevents the rod from punching into the splined hollow at the spindle end and gives the rod a flat face to press against.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAll current and legacy square-taper cranks (Shimano, FSA, Race Face, Truvativ square-taper, generic JIS and ISO tapers)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eISIS Drive (Truvativ, Race Face, FSA, Stronglight) using the included splined adapter\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano Octalink V1 and V2 using the same splined adapter\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eM22 × 1.0 puller threads (industry-standard for square taper and splined cranks)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel, drop-forged, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e chrome-plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHandle length:\u003c\/strong\u003e 6.5″ (165 mm), integrated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePuller thread:\u003c\/strong\u003e M22 × 1.0\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e splined adapter for ISIS and Octalink\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The integrated handle on the 1661.3\/4P-US isn't a separate part welded on; it's part of the puller body's drop-forged structure. That's why the handle holds true under the load of pulling a properly stuck crank where a press-on handle would loosen at the joint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 6.5″ handle is enough leverage for almost every stuck crank we see. If the crank still won't release with the integrated handle fully loaded, the issue isn't leverage; it's that the puller threads in the crank arm have already let go, and the centre rod is spinning without engagement. Step to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/square-taper-crank-puller\"\u003e1662\/4 Square Taper Crank Puller\u003c\/a\u003e with its tapered puller threads, or use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/crank-saver\"\u003eCrank Saver Kit (1695MB1-US)\u003c\/a\u003e to ream the threads and press in a fresh steel insert.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the field-versus-bench tool choice and the full removal procedure across all four crank interfaces: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-remove-a-crankset\"\u003eHow to remove a crankset →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378789617708,"sku":"624918","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1661.3_4dp-us.jpg?v=1642730175"},{"product_id":"square-taper-crank-puller","title":"Square Taper Crank Puller - 1662\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eMost crank pullers strip on the same kind of crank: the one that's been pulled before, by someone who skipped the dust cap or pulled against worn threads. The puller turns, the threads in the crank arm let go, and the puller backs out without moving the crank a millimetre. That's the call our 1662\/4 was built to answer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1662\/4's puller threads are tapered rather than straight. As the puller turns into the crank arm, the taper grips into thread material that a straight-cut puller would skate across. It's the salvage tool that grabs where a generic puller has already given up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to reach for the 1662\/4 over the 1661\/4\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/square-taper-crank-puller-1661-4\"\u003e1661\/4 Crank Puller\u003c\/a\u003e is our default bench puller; straight threads, faster engagement, included splined adapter for ISIS and Octalink. Reach for the 1662\/4 when the puller threads in the crank arm are already worn or partially stripped. The tapered threads engage thread material that's been chewed by previous pulls; straight-thread pullers either skate over that material or back out without engaging.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1662\/4 is square-taper-only. Splined cranks (ISIS, Octalink) need the 1661\/4 with its splined adapter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLoosen and remove the centre crank bolt (usually 14 mm or 15 mm hex on square-taper cranks, with a dust cap covering the puller threads on some models; pry or unscrew the dust cap before threading in the puller). Thread the 1662\/4's body into the crank arm's puller threads, hand-tight first, then snug with a wrench on the puller's flats. Turn the centre rod clockwise. The rod presses the spindle face and pushes the crank arm outward along the spindle axis until the crank releases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the threads in the crank arm have given up entirely (the 1662\/4 spins without engaging at all), the next step is the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/crank-saver\"\u003eCrank Saver Kit (1695MB1-US)\u003c\/a\u003e, which reams the puller threads to a larger oversize and presses in a steel insert. That returns the crank arm to standard puller threads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSquare-taper cranks (Shimano, FSA, Race Face square-taper, generic JIS and ISO tapers)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStripped or partially stripped puller threads where a standard puller is skating\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot for splined cranks (ISIS, Octalink); use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/square-taper-crank-puller-1661-4\"\u003e1661\/4\u003c\/a\u003e with its splined adapter for those\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel, drop-forged, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e chrome-plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePuller thread:\u003c\/strong\u003e M22 × 1.0, \u003cstrong\u003etapered\u003c\/strong\u003e (the differentiating feature)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWrench flats:\u003c\/strong\u003e 17 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1662\/4's tapered puller threads are a workshop decision, not a consumer one; the design exists because workshop benches see the same stuck-crank call enough times that a salvage tool earns its place next to the everyday one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1662\/4 is the tool you reach for after the 1661\/4 has slipped, not before. Use the standard puller first; if it engages, finish the pull. Only step to the tapered-thread puller when the standard tool can't get a grip. The taper engages so aggressively that it can mark crank-arm threads that were still serviceable for a few more pulls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the four-interface crank-removal decision tree, including how to tell whether the crank arm itself is salvageable: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-remove-a-crankset\"\u003eHow to remove a crankset →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378789650476,"sku":"619707","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1662_4.jpg?v=1642731149"},{"product_id":"8-tooth-cartridge-bottom-bracket-tool","title":"8 Tooth Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool - 1671.2\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eShimano Octalink cartridge bottom brackets with outside notches, along with Bontrager and Truvativ ISIS Drive types, use an 8-notch splined recess rather than the 20-tooth pattern that became the cartridge-era standard. The two interfaces are visually similar but mechanically different; a 20-tooth socket skates across an 8-tooth cup, and the wider tooth pitch on the 8-tooth pattern needs the dedicated tool for clean engagement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf a customer's bike has an 8-notch cartridge BB and a 20-tooth socket isn't gripping, this is the tool the work calls for. Square-taper, Shimano Octalink, ISIS, and other internal-cartridge BBs from the same era that happen to use the 8-tooth pattern all take the same 1671.2\/4. The same 8-notch pattern also secures the front chainring lockring on Bosch Generation 3 and 4 e-bike drive units, so this doubles as the lockring tool for those motors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInsert the 1671.2\/4 into the BB's splined recess until all 8 splines mesh fully with the cup's pattern. Press home; partial seating skips on the first turn and rounds the cup. Drive with a 1\/2″ ratchet, an adjustable wrench against the body, or a torque wrench when the manufacturer's install spec calls for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn English-threaded frames, which covers most bikes, the drive-side cup is left-hand thread; it loosens clockwise. Italian-thread frames from the same era are the exception and reverse this; check the BB cup's marking before applying force.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano Octalink cartridge bottom brackets with outside notches (the 8-notch interface)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBontrager and Truvativ ISIS Drive type bottom brackets, plus other internal cartridges of the era with the same 8-notch pattern; also the Bosch Generation 3 and 4 e-bike front chainring lockring\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot compatible\u003c\/strong\u003e with the more-common 20-tooth cartridge BBs; for those, use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cartridge-bottom-bracket-tool\"\u003e20 Tooth Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool (1671.1\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e 211 g\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrive interface:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1\/2″ square drive on the back face; wrench flats on the body for adjustable-wrench drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpline count:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8-notch (Shimano Octalink outside-notch cartridge interface; Bosch Gen 3\/4 lockring)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1671.2\/4 is made from Unior's premium flex plus carbon steel because the 8-notch BB interface lives mostly on bikes that are decades old by now; the splines on the cup are often already marginal, and a tool that's softer than the cup adds wear instead of releasing the BB cleanly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA cartridge BB that has been seized in place for two decades won't yield to force alone. Two recoveries: penetrating fluid at the thread interface for fifteen minutes before applying force, or, if the cup is genuinely stuck, gentle warming of the BB shell with a heat gun before the next attempt. Patience and chemistry beat brute torque on cups that have been in place since the bike was new.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the cartridge-era BB removal procedure and the warning signs that indicate “ready to come out” versus “still seized”: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/replace-or-clean-your-hollowtech-ii-bottom-bracket\"\u003eReplace or clean your bottom bracket →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich bottom brackets does the 1671.2\/4 fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It drives cartridge bottom brackets that use the 8-notch pattern: Shimano Octalink units with outside notches, Bontrager and Truvativ ISIS Drive types, and other internal cartridges of that era built on the same interface. It does not fit the far more common 20-tooth pattern; that job belongs to the 20 Tooth Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool (1671.1\/4).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it work on Bosch e-bike motors?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. The front chainring lockring on Bosch Generation 3 and Generation 4 drive units uses the same 8-notch pattern, so the 1671.2\/4 installs and removes those lockrings. Its 1\/2-inch square drive takes a torque wrench directly, useful when the motor maker specifies an install torque.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow can I tell the 8-notch recess from the standard 20-tooth one?\u003c\/strong\u003e Count the castellations on the cup face. The 8-notch pattern has eight wide, widely spaced teeth; the 20-tooth pattern is finer, with twenty narrow splines. They look similar at a glance, but the two tools do not interchange, so a socket that spins without gripping is the usual giveaway that you have the other pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich way does a cartridge bottom bracket unscrew?\u003c\/strong\u003e On English-threaded frames, which is most bikes, the drive-side cup is left-hand thread and comes out clockwise; the non-drive cup is conventional right-hand thread. Italian-threaded frames use right-hand thread on both cups. Check the cup markings first, and seat the tool fully in the notches before applying real force.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378789683244,"sku":"616069","price":28.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1671.2_4.jpg?v=1642713921"},{"product_id":"freewheel-remover-with-guide-pin","title":"Shimano\/SRAM Cassette Lockring Tool with Guide Pin - 1670.7\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1670.7\/4 sits between the bare-socket \u003ca href=\"\/products\/shimano-cassette-lock-ring-tool\"\u003e1670.5\/4\u003c\/a\u003e and the integrated-handle \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-remover-with-handle\"\u003e1670.8\/2BI-US\u003c\/a\u003e in the Unior cassette-lockring lineup. It's the same Shimano\/SRAM HG 12-spline socket as the basic tool, with one critical addition: a centering guide pin that anchors the tool against the wheel's quick-release skewer. The handle stays separate; you bring your own ratchet or breaker bar to the back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide pin is what stops the tool from popping out of the lockring splines under load. On a stuck lockring, the splines take all of the load through a small contact patch; without a pin holding the socket centered, the first hard pull tilts the tool, the splines pop, and the lockring rounds. The guide pin slides through the lockring's central bore and through the wheel's QR skewer, holding the splines in full engagement through the break-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between the 1670.7\/4 and the basic 1670.5\/4 is whether you've got a particularly stuck lockring or a freshly-installed one. For shop bikes serviced annually, the splines stay clean and the 1670.5\/4 works fine. For wheels coming in for the first cassette change after years of weather, the guide pin is the difference between getting the lockring off and rounding the splines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow to use it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThread the wheel's QR skewer out, slide the 1670.7\/4's guide pin into the lockring bore, and re-thread the skewer through the tool and back into the hub. Snug the QR against the back face of the tool. Hold the cassette still with a chain whip or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench\"\u003eCassette Wrench\u003c\/a\u003e, then turn the 24 mm wrench flat or 1\/2\" drive counter-clockwise. Loosen the QR a quarter turn each time the lockring breaks free further; the tool can lift back out as the lockring threads out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor thru-axle hubs the guide-pin spec is different; the 1670.7\/4 expects a QR-style skewer bore, while thru-axle hubs need the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/12mm-thru-axle-hub-cassette-remover\"\u003e12mm Guide 1670.9\/4\u003c\/a\u003e instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano HG cassettes, 7- through 12-speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSRAM HG cassettes (XD and XDR included; HG lockring pattern)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMicroshift and Sunrace cassettes using the Shimano HG lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eQR-skewered hubs only; not for 12 mm thru-axle (use \u003ca href=\"\/products\/12mm-thru-axle-hub-cassette-remover\"\u003e1670.9\/4\u003c\/a\u003e)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot for Campagnolo (use \u003ca href=\"\/products\/campagnolo-cassette-remover\"\u003e1670.4\/4\u003c\/a\u003e)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e12-spline Shimano\/SRAM HG lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCentering guide pin for QR-skewered hubs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e24 mm hex wrench flat\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive socket on the opposite face\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTrivalent chrome plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1670.7\/4\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1670.7\/4 is the middle tool in a three-step lineup, and the design call is deliberate: workshops doing cassette work daily get the integrated-handle 1670.8\/2BI-US, workshops doing it monthly get the 1670.7\/4 with their existing ratchet, and the bench tool 1670.5\/4 covers the once-a-season service for clean lockrings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide-pin trick; snugging the QR against the tool's back face; does the same work as our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-remover-with-handle\"\u003eintegrated-handle version's\u003c\/a\u003e anchor. The 1670.7\/4 just gives you the choice of which ratchet to use; if your ratchet has a longer arm than our integrated handle, you'll out-leverage the integrated tool. Most workshops have a 250 mm or longer 1\/2\" breaker bar in the drawer already. The cassette-replacement workflow covers when the leverage difference matters and when it doesn't: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-cassette\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your cassette →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is a cassette lockring tool used for?\u003c\/strong\u003e It engages the splined lockring that holds a cassette in place so the lockring can be turned out counter-clockwise. The 1670.7\/4 is the Shimano\/SRAM HG version: a 12-spline socket driven by a 24 mm wrench or 1\/2-inch ratchet, with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench\"\u003ecassette wrench\u003c\/a\u003e or chain whip holding the cassette still.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhy does the 1670.7\/4 have a guide pin?\u003c\/strong\u003e Spline engagement on a cassette lockring is shallow, and a seized one takes real force to crack; an unanchored socket tends to cam out at exactly that moment and chews up the lockring. The pin passes through the lockring bore, the skewer threads back through the pin, and the clamped-down assembly keeps the splines mated until the lockring gives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich other tools do I need alongside the 1670.7\/4?\u003c\/strong\u003e The handle is bring-your-own: drive it from the 1\/2-inch square socket with your ratchet or breaker bar, or put a 24 mm wrench across the hex flat. Add a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench\"\u003ecassette wrench\u003c\/a\u003e or chain whip to hold the cassette, and the wheel's own quick-release skewer, which anchors the guide pin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan the 1670.7\/4 be used on 12 mm thru-axle hubs?\u003c\/strong\u003e No; the guide pin expects a quick-release skewer bore. Thru-axle hubs take the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/12mm-thru-axle-hub-cassette-remover\"\u003e1670.9\/4\u003c\/a\u003e, which pairs the same HG socket with a 12 mm guide.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378793975852,"sku":"616067","price":12.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1670.7_4.jpg?v=1642729098"},{"product_id":"cassette-remover-with-handle","title":"Integrated Cassette Lockring Wrench w\/Guide - 1670.8\/2BI-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eA worn Shimano or SRAM cassette lockring can be properly stuck. Forty Nm of factory torque plus a season of corrosion plus a freehub that's been hosed off and dried in dirt adds up to a lockring that doesn't move on the first push. The 1670.8\/2BI-US is the cassette-removal tool that doesn't make you build a stack of adapters to break it free: a Shimano\/SRAM-pattern 12-spline socket, a centering guide pin, and a long bi-material handle, all in one piece.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide pin is the design choice that does the work. A bare lockring socket without a centering pin sits in the splines under load and wants to walk; the first hard pull and it's popped out, with rounded spline corners as the parting gift. The guide pin slides through the lockring's central bore and through the wheel's quick-release skewer hole, anchoring the tool against the wheel itself. The splines stay seated through the break-free, no matter how stuck the lockring is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bi-material handle is the leverage half of the equation. Tools designed to be paired with a ratchet are sized for the ratchet's leverage, not the lockring's resistance; an integrated handle solves the leverage problem at the source. The 1670.8\/2BI-US's handle is long enough that a hand at the end of it puts the lockring well past the torque it was installed at. The bi-material grip stays grippy under the hand pressure that those torque values require.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow to use it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSlide the guide pin into the lockring's bore and through the wheel's QR or thru-axle channel. Snug the QR or axle nut against the back face of the tool; this stops the tool from popping out under load. Hold the cassette still with a chain whip or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench\"\u003eCassette Wrench\u003c\/a\u003e on the larger cogs. Pull the handle counter-clockwise. The break-free is usually one firm motion. Loosen the QR or axle a quarter turn each time the lockring breaks free further and the tool wants to lift, and you'll thread the lockring all the way out without resetting your stance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano HG cassettes, 7- through 12-speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSRAM HG cassettes including XD and XDR (lockring pattern matches HG)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMicroshift and Sunrace cassettes using the Shimano HG lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot for Campagnolo (use \u003ca href=\"\/products\/campagnolo-cassette-remover\"\u003e1670.4\/4\u003c\/a\u003e)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot for thru-axle hubs without a removable axle (the guide pin needs the bore)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e12-spline Shimano\/SRAM HG lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCentering guide pin (slides through the cassette lockring bore)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIntegrated bi-material handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTrivalent chrome plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1670.8\/2BI-US\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1670.8\/2BI-US is the highest-leverage integrated-format cassette tool in the catalog; the design call is that the workshop should not have to assemble a stack of three pieces; socket plus ratchet plus guide adapter; when one tool can do the same job. The handle's bi-material grip is a small detail, but it's the difference between a tool that works and a tool that hurts your hand under the force a stuck lockring takes to move.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReinstall is the half of the job that gets done wrong. The same guide pin that protected the splines on removal protects them on reinstall; leave the tool seated through threading until the lockring touches down on the freehub, then back off and torque to spec with a wrench on the 1670.8's handle. Shimano publishes 40 Nm for HG cassette lockrings; SRAM publishes 35–45 Nm depending on cassette tier. The cassette-replacement workflow has the torque values per drivetrain and what happens when you skip them: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-cassette\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your cassette →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794041388,"sku":"624932","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1670.8_2bi-us.jpg?v=1642725496"},{"product_id":"12mm-thru-axle-hub-cassette-remover","title":"Cassette Lockring Tool with 12mm Guide - 1670.9\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eThru-axle hubs solved the quick-release stiffness problem and brought a new one with them: cassette removal got harder. A bare lockring tool slips out of the splines under load, and the old quick-release-skewer trick; running the QR back through the tool to anchor it; doesn't work on a hub that doesn't take a QR. The 1670.9\/4 is the lockring tool sized for the way modern hubs are built: a Shimano\/SRAM HG-pattern socket with a 12 mm centering guide that locates against the thru-axle bore itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide is the spec. Most current MTB hubs run 12 mm thru-axles, and most current road, gravel, adventure, and CX hubs do too. The 12 mm guide pin slides directly into the hub's thru-axle channel, planting the tool against the wheel without an external axle or skewer holding it down. The splines stay seated through the lockring break-free, the tool can't walk out under load, and the cassette comes off without rounding the lockring's engagement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor QR-skewered hubs, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/shimano-cassette-lock-ring-tool\"\u003eShimano\/SRAM Cassette Lockring Tool 1670.5\/4\u003c\/a\u003e covers the same lockring pattern at a lower price point; that tool relies on the QR skewer for retention. The 1670.9\/4 is specifically the version for the thru-axle hub population.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow to use it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRemove the wheel and thread out the thru-axle if it's still in the hub. Slide the 1670.9\/4's 12 mm guide pin into the hub's thru-axle bore from the cassette side, seating the 12-spline socket into the lockring. Hold the cassette still with a chain whip or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench\"\u003eCassette Wrench\u003c\/a\u003e on the larger cogs. With a 21 mm wrench or 1\/2\" ratchet on the back of the tool, turn the lockring counter-clockwise. The guide pin stays in the bore through the full extraction; reverse the steps to reinstall and torque the lockring to spec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano HG cassettes, 7- through 12-speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSRAM HG cassettes (XD and XDR included)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMicroshift and Sunrace cassettes using the Shimano HG lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e12 mm thru-axle hubs (the 12 mm guide is the spec; won't seat in 15 mm or 20 mm hubs)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot for Campagnolo (use \u003ca href=\"\/products\/campagnolo-cassette-remover\"\u003e1670.4\/4\u003c\/a\u003e)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e12-spline Shimano\/SRAM HG lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e12 mm centering guide for thru-axle hubs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e21 mm hex wrench flat\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive socket on the opposite face\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e75 mm overall, 122 g\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1670.9\/4\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1670.9\/4's design choice; sizing the guide pin to the thru-axle standard rather than to the lockring's central bore; is what makes it work without a removable axle. A few cassette tools on the market still expect a QR skewer to do the retention work, which leaves them awkward to use on the bikes most workshops see now. The 1670.9\/4 is built for the bikes coming in this season, not last decade's.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 12 mm guide doesn't replace the chain whip; you still need something holding the cassette while the lockring turns. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/1660-2dp-us-multispeed-chainwhip\"\u003eMultispeed Chainwhip 1660\/2DP-US\u003c\/a\u003e is the workshop default; the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench\"\u003eCassette Wrench\u003c\/a\u003e (11\/12t) is the chain-free alternative when you've got cassettes with the right small-cog size. For SRAM AXS X-Range cassettes with 10-tooth small cogs, neither chain whip nor 11\/12t wrench fits; you need the X-Range-specific wrench. The cassette-replacement workflow details tool pairing per drivetrain: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-cassette\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your cassette →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWill this fit my thru-axle wheel?\u003c\/strong\u003e It's built for rear hubs with a 12 mm thru-axle bore — the 11.9 mm guide pin seats directly in the axle channel, which covers most current road, gravel, and mountain rear ends. Quick-release hubs don't need the pin: use the 1670.5\/4, which anchors with the QR skewer instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich cassette lockrings does it drive?\u003c\/strong\u003e The 12-spline socket drives Shimano and SRAM HG-pattern lockrings, 7- through 12-speed, and SRAM XD and XDR cassette lockrings share the same spline interface. Campagnolo lockrings are a different pattern — that's the 1670.4\/4.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat wrench does it take?\u003c\/strong\u003e Either end works: 21 mm hex flats for an open-end wrench, or the 1\/2-inch square socket in the back for a ratchet, breaker bar, or torque wrench. Cassette lockrings are stamped for 40 N·m, so a torque wrench on the square drive is the clean way to finish an install.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo I still need a chain whip?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes, for removal — the freehub spins freely in the unthreading direction, so something has to hold the cassette while the lockring breaks loose. The Multispeed Chainwhip 1660\/2DP-US is the usual pairing; the Cassette Wrench is the chain-free option when the small cog is an 11 or 12-tooth.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":34378794139692,"sku":"625615","price":16.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1670.9_4.jpg?v=1642722311"},{"product_id":"long-nose-pliers-with-side-cutter","title":"Needle Nose Pliers - 506\/1VDEBI","description":"\u003cp\u003eNeedle-nose pliers solve the bike-shop problem that nothing else does: reaching past a brake caliper to grab a cable end, fishing a spring back onto a derailleur cage, or threading a valve stem through a deep rim well. The jaw length and tip diameter are what determine whether the tool can get to the job at all. This 38 mm jaw is the more maneuverable of the two straight needle-nose pliers we offer; the shorter overall reach makes it the right pick when you're working with constrained shop clearance and don't need the extra inch of length.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2 mm tip diameter gets into tight cable-routing ports and spring-anchor holes. The side cutter near the pivot makes the tool a true multi-tasker: trim a cable end after grabbing the strand without swapping tools, snip a zip tie after retrieving the lost end. The smooth front jaws taper across the 38 mm length so the working contact patch shrinks as you move toward the tip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe handles are dual-density, which is a comfort decision and a control decision. The harder core gives you precision; the softer outer surface absorbs hand fatigue over a long service session. The drop-forged-and-heat-treated jaw construction is the metallurgy that keeps the tip from rounding off after a year of grip work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to choose this one over the longer needle nose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe sell two straight-tip needle-nose pliers; the difference is jaw length (38 mm here, 61 mm on the longer sibling) and the longer plier's serrated pipe-grip section. Pick this one when:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe job is precision-grip work where reach is not the constraint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou're rebuilding a derailleur and need to manipulate small parts in a constrained space.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe shorter overall length keeps the tool maneuverable in a cluttered headset bag or seatpost bore.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePick the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/long-nose-pliers-with-side-cutter-and-pipe-grip-straight\"\u003elong needle-nose pliers\u003c\/a\u003e when you need the extra reach or the pipe-grip section for round stock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eJaw length: 38 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip diameter: 2 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstruction: drop-forged jaws, heat-treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSide cutter at pivot\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandles: dual-density grip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The forging-and-heat-treat process is the same one used across the plier line; the 2 mm tip stays sharp because the underlying steel was forged from billet, not stamped. The short-jaw needle-nose has been a workshop staple for as long as the line has existed, and we keep it in the catalog because the geometry remains the right answer for tight-space precision work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you find yourself reaching for needle-nose pliers more than once a week, the difference between this jaw length and the longer sibling becomes obvious in the hand. The decision tree across the plier family lives here: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/pliers-for-bike-work\"\u003ePliers for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794205228,"sku":"610434","price":32.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/506_1vdebi.jpg?v=1642727112"},{"product_id":"long-nose-pliers-with-side-cutter-and-pipe-grip-straight","title":"Long Needle Nose Pliers - 508\/1VDEBI","description":"\u003cp\u003eLong needle-nose pliers are the tool that turns “I can’t reach it” into “got it.” The 61 mm jaw length adds an inch over the short sibling; the serrated pipe-grip section near the pivot adds bite for round stock. Together they cover the bike-shop jobs where reach and grip both matter: fishing a stuck shift wire through internally-routed frame ports, gripping the round shaft of a stripped quick-release lever, or pulling a folded inner-tube valve through a deep rim well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2 mm tip is identical to the short-jaw sibling, so precision tip work is unchanged. The 61 mm jaw is what unlocks the bike-shop jobs that the short jaw can’t reach: anything deeper than the front face of a brake caliper, anything past the lower headset cup, anything inside a frame port that has clearance for a tool but not for your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe serrated pipe-grip section is the meaningful design difference. Round stock like a rounded fastener shaft, a brake-housing ferrule, or the body of a spoke nipple needs a grip that grabs across multiple points, not just at the tips. The pipe-grip section is sized to the cylindrical diameters that come up in cycling work; the difference between rolling off a workpiece and getting a real hold.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it earns its space in the bike shop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eInternal cable routing.\u003c\/strong\u003e Long enough to reach a shift wire that fell short of an exit port.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStripped quick-release lever shafts.\u003c\/strong\u003e The pipe-grip section bites the round body.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRim-well valve retrieval.\u003c\/strong\u003e Reach past the rim wall to grab a valve stem that turned inside out.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCable-end strand grip.\u003c\/strong\u003e Long enough to get past the brake-caliper body to a cable end.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDerailleur spring manipulation.\u003c\/strong\u003e Jaw length reaches the body of the spring at full reach.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen this one beats the shorter sibling\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReach is the constraint, not maneuverability.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe job involves round stock (the pipe-grip section earns its keep).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou’re working through a frame port or past a fixed component.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePick the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/long-nose-pliers-with-side-cutter\"\u003e38 mm short jaw\u003c\/a\u003e for tight-space precision; pick the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bent-tip-long-nose-pliers-with-side-cutter-and-pipe-grip\"\u003e45° bent-tip\u003c\/a\u003e when the access angle is the constraint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eJaw length: 61 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip diameter: 2 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstruction: drop-forged jaws, heat-treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFeatures: side cutter at pivot, serrated pipe-grip section\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandles: dual-density grip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The serrated pipe-grip section is a deliberate design choice on the long-jaw plier; we make the short-jaw sibling without it on purpose, because the geometry of a short tool is wrong for round stock and the serration would just get in the way of precision tip work. Tool-by-tool decisions like this are what separate a thoughtful tool line from a catalog of size variations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 61 mm length is the inch of reach that turns “I need to pull the bottom bracket to access this” into “I can do it through the frame port.” When pulling that internal-routing job, the bent-tip variant of this plier is often the cleaner answer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/pliers-for-bike-work\"\u003ePliers for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"170mm","offer_id":34378794237996,"sku":"610436","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/508_1vdebi.jpg?v=1642726343"},{"product_id":"bent-tip-long-nose-pliers-with-side-cutter-and-pipe-grip","title":"Bent Long Needle Nose Pliers - 512\/1VDEBI","description":"\u003cp\u003eInternal cable routing is the bike-shop job that taught the industry to love bent-tip pliers. Modern frames route shift wires and brake hoses through ports drilled into headset cups, top-tube caps, and chainstay bridges; the ports are often oriented so a straight tool can’t enter them squarely. The 45-degree bend on these pliers turns “I need to pull the bottom bracket to get at this” into “I can do it through the port that’s already open.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 45° tip bend is the single dimension that makes the tool different from a straight long-nose plier. The jaw length, the side cutter, the serrated pipe-grip section, and the dual-density handles are the same metallurgy and the same family as the straight long-nose sibling; only the angle changes. That angle is the right answer for any job where the access path bends but the workpiece is otherwise reachable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe side cutter near the pivot makes the tool a multi-tasker even at the bent angle. Trim a cable strand after pulling it through; cut a zip tie at the awkward end. The serrated pipe-grip section gives the tool real bite on round stock; a stuck cable end, a quick-release lever shaft, a brake-housing ferrule.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it earns its space in the bike shop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eInternal cable routing through angled frame ports.\u003c\/strong\u003e The straight long-nose can’t enter; the bent tip can.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReaching around a fixed component.\u003c\/strong\u003e Past a brake caliper, around a chainstay yoke, behind a downtube cable stop.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThreading a barb fitting into hidden brake-line ports.\u003c\/strong\u003e The angle keeps your hand out of the way.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulling a stuck cable end where the routing geometry bends.\u003c\/strong\u003e The bent tip follows the path.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to reach for the bent tip instead of straight\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf a straight long-nose plier can enter the workspace squarely, use it. The bent tip introduces a slight handle-to-tip offset that’s a control compromise; worth it when straight access isn’t possible, not worth it when it is. Keep both: the bent and straight long-nose pliers are a pair, not a duplicate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip angle: 45 degrees\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstruction: drop-forged jaws, heat-treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFeatures: side cutter at pivot, serrated pipe-grip section\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandles: dual-density grip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 45° bend is forged into the jaw on the same press that produces the straight long-nose; the angle is set before heat treatment so the bend holds through years of clamping load. A bent tip that’s bent after heat treatment will eventually fatigue at the bend point; ours doesn’t, because the geometry is forged in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you’ve ever tried to thread a brake hose through a frame port with a straight plier and given up, this tool is the answer. The straight-jaw sibling and this tool together cover almost every reach-and-grip case in bike service: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/pliers-for-bike-work\"\u003ePliers for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794270764,"sku":"610438","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/512_1vdebi.jpg?v=1642720441"},{"product_id":"locksmiths-hammer-200-813","title":"Locksmith Hammer - 812","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe hammer in a bike shop isn't a framing hammer. The work calls for a small, controlled tap that seats a part without distorting it. A 17 mm square head is the right size for the work; large enough to deliver real force, small enough not to scuff frame tubes or other parts crowding the workspace.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 812 Locksmith Hammer is built for that controlled tap. Induction-hardened face means the working surface holds shape through years of impact without spalling or denting. An ash handle absorbs shock from the head down through the grip, which after fifty taps at a stuck bearing race is the difference between a wrist that's tired and a wrist that's hurting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the locksmith hammer does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSeating a press-fit cup that's almost there.\u003c\/strong\u003e A bearing-press gets the cup most of the way home; a couple of measured taps on the leading edge with the hammer seats it the final 0.5–1 mm if needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePersuading a stuck headset cup out of a head tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e Tap the puller's drift evenly around the cup's perimeter; uneven tapping pulls the cup off-axis and binds it tighter.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKnocking a bearing race loose from a hub shell after a puller has freed it.\u003c\/strong\u003e The puller breaks the fit; the hammer separates the parts.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSetting a chain-pin partially through a stuck plate.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rare but real on chain tools where the spindle isn't getting enough leverage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ash handle is the detail to notice. Ash absorbs shock far better than fiberglass. After a long day of working stuck headsets, the difference between an ash-handle hammer and a fiberglass one shows up in your forearm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSizing\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvailable in two sizes. The smaller suits fine work in tight quarters; the larger gives more head mass for tougher stuck parts. Most working benches end up with the smaller; a busy shop has both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e17 mm square head\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInduction-hardened face\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAsh handle, shock-absorbing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 812 (size varies by variant)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The locksmith hammer line is one of those workshop fundamentals Unior has been forging from before the cycling-tools division ever existed. The same hardening process that goes into the chain-rivet plier heads goes into this hammer's working face.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"tap-tap-tap\" register a working mechanic uses on stuck parts is the controlled-impact rhythm a real shop hammer enables. A heavy framing hammer can't deliver light taps without overshooting; the small locksmith's hammer can deliver heavy ones with the right swing. Range matters more than mass. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e walks through the impact-tool layer of a working shop: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"200g","offer_id":34381974896684,"sku":"601799","price":12.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/812.jpg?v=1642726035"},{"product_id":"16-notch-bottom-bracket-wrench","title":"16 Notch External Bottom Bracket Wrench - 1609\/2BI-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1609\/2BI-US is called a bottom bracket wrench, but on most workshop benches it earns its hook for three jobs, not one. Multi-tasking is good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFirst job: install and remove 16-notch external bottom brackets. That's the dominant pattern across Shimano (Hollowtech II), SRAM (GXP and DUB), Campagnolo, FSA, Chris King, Race Face Cinch, and most other current external-bearing BBs. The cup is machined to close tolerances so the splines mesh fully with the BB's outer notches without marring the BB's finish, and the offset handle is distanced just far enough so your knuckles clear the frame but not so far as to create unnecessary cam-out, causing the tool to slip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSecond job: external Centerlock disc-rotor lockrings. The same 16-notch interface that secures HT2 BB cups is what Shimano uses for the larger Centerlock lockring on 15 mm and 20 mm thru-axle hubs. One wrench, two services.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThird job: a small wrench machined into the 1609\/2BI-US's body for the preload caps on Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets. It's the cap that sets the bearing preload after the crank is reinstalled; an everyday turn that needs an everyday tool, kept on the same body as the BB wrench so it doesn't get lost. A strong magnet on the back face keeps the small wrench attached when not in use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor BB cups: mount the wrench's notched cup over the BB's outer face so all 16 notches mesh fully. Drive side is reverse threaded on Shimano-pattern BBs (loosens clockwise); non-drive side is normally threaded. Apply force slowly; jerking torque cams the wrench out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor Centerlock lockrings on thru-axle hubs: same notched interface, same wrench, smaller load.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor Shimano HT2 preload caps: detach the small wrench from the magnetic back face and hand-turn the cap to set bearing preload (finger-tight plus a quarter turn, about 0.5–0.7 Nm).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano Hollowtech II road and MTB\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSRAM GXP and DUB external BBs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCampagnolo road, FSA Mega Exo, Chris King, Race Face Cinch, and other 16-notch external BBs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExternal Centerlock disc-rotor lockrings (15 mm and 20 mm thru-axle hubs)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano HT2 preload caps\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e chrome-plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHandle length:\u003c\/strong\u003e ~250 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNotch pattern:\u003c\/strong\u003e 16-notch external (Shimano \/ SRAM \/ FSA \/ Campagnolo standard)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e integrated preload-cap wrench held to the body with a strong magnet\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1609\/2BI-US's offset handle geometry is the design call that separates a workshop wrench from a value-tier tool; the offset clears modern frames' chainstays and BB shells while keeping the handle close enough to the cup to load the wrench cleanly without cam-out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common BB-wrench failure mode isn't tool wear; it's incomplete engagement on the cup. Press the wrench fully home before applying torque. If the splines are sitting partially proud of the BB's notches, the first hard turn will skip and round both the cup notches and the wrench splines. Two seconds of careful seating saves a marred BB cup and a sharp scratch on someone's frame.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the full BB removal procedure including thread direction by side and reinstall torque: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/replace-or-clean-your-hollowtech-ii-bottom-bracket\"\u003eReplace or clean your bottom bracket →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794532908,"sku":"624903","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1609_2bi-us.jpg?v=1642712500"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-wrench-open","title":"Open 16 Notch External Bottom Bracket Wrench - 1609\/2HOBBY-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1609\/2HOBBY-US is the home-mechanic version of our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/16-notch-bottom-bracket-wrench\"\u003e1609\/2BI-US 16 Notch BB Wrench\u003c\/a\u003e. The pattern is the same; the engagement is the same; the difference is an open-cup design rather than a closed cup, and a price point that fits a home toolkit rather than a workshop wall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor most home BB jobs, the open pattern is what the work calls for. The closed-cup 1609\/2BI-US matters on benches that see hundreds of BB services a year, where the additional cup material adds a margin against tool wear. On the home bench that sees a BB service once a season, the open version delivers the same job for less.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMount the wrench so all 16 notches mesh with the BB cup's outer face. Press home before applying torque. Drive side is reverse threaded on Shimano-pattern external BBs (loosens clockwise); non-drive side is normally threaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApply force slowly. The most common home-mechanic mistake on a BB removal is jerking torque on a cup that hasn't been fully seated by the wrench. The cup notches round, the wrench splines round, and the next BB service requires both a new cup and a new wrench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShimano Hollowtech II road and MTB external BBs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSRAM GXP and DUB external BBs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCampagnolo road, FSA Mega Exo, Chris King, Race Face Cinch, and other 16-notch external BBs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMost 16-notch BB designs across the current market\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with Shimano Centerlock disc-rotor lockrings on thru-axle hubs (15 mm and 20 mm) that use the external-spline pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e chrome-plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHandle length:\u003c\/strong\u003e ~200 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNotch pattern:\u003c\/strong\u003e 16-notch external, open-cup design\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1609\/2HOBBY-US is the same precision-machined notch pattern as the workshop 1609\/2BI-US; the price difference comes from the open-cup geometry, not from cutting tolerances on the splines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the BB cup won't release with steady pressure, the issue is almost always corrosion at the cup-to-shell interface, not torque. Apply a penetrating fluid at the thread interface, wait fifteen minutes, then try again. A cup that's been seized in place for years often releases on the second try after a soak; one that won't release on the first try usually responds to patience rather than to an impact pull.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the home-mechanic BB service walkthrough including the order of operations and the torque specs for reinstall: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/replace-or-clean-your-hollowtech-ii-bottom-bracket\"\u003eReplace or clean your bottom bracket →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794598444,"sku":"624935","price":15.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1609_2hobby-us.jpg?v=1642727337"},{"product_id":"bumping-hammer-fi-40-820a","title":"Plastic Hammer - 820A","description":"\u003cp\u003eA plastic-faced hammer is the right tool for the moments when you need real persuasion energy without marring a finished surface. Lighter than the dead-blow and with replaceable polyurethane tips on both sides, the 820A is the workshop standard for jobs where a rubber mallet's energy delivery feels insufficient but a steel hammer would leave a witness mark.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe business end is a pair of 40 mm polyurethane tips on a cast-iron head; the 320 mm lacquered wooden handle gives controlled swing length without being unwieldy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polyurethane tip is the bike-shop-safe striking face. It delivers real energy; enough to seat a headset cup, persuade a stuck quick-release, or break loose a press-fit bearing; without marring the finished component. The 40 mm tip diameter spreads the strike across a wide contact patch, which protects the workpiece from concentrated stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cast-iron head behind the polyurethane tips holds the weight. The hammer feels heavy in the hand for its size, because the cast-iron mass is doing the work; the polyurethane tip is the buffer between that mass and your workpiece.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe two-tip design extends tool life. When one tip wears, flip the hammer and use the other. Both tips are replaceable, so the hammer can outlast the original wear cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it earns its space in the bike shop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSeating press-fit bearings\u003c\/strong\u003e after the press is removed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTapping headset cups\u003c\/strong\u003e that don't quite want to drop in.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePersuading a stuck quick-release through a tight dropout.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStriking the back of a chisel or punch\u003c\/strong\u003e when the workpiece is alloy or finished surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGeneral bike-shop persuasion\u003c\/strong\u003e where the dead-blow's weight is more than needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen the dead-blow is the better tool\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor maximum energy delivery and zero rebound, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/deadblow-hammer\"\u003edead-blow hammer\u003c\/a\u003e is the heavier, dedicated tool. The 820A is the lighter alternative; faster to swing, more controlled on small components. Most shops own both: the dead-blow for serious seating, the 820A for routine work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip diameter: 40 mm (each side)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip material: polyurethane (replaceable)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle length: 320 mm, lacquered wood\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHead: cast iron\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUse: precision strikes against finished bike components\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The cast-iron head with replaceable polyurethane tips is the European workshop pattern; same hammer you'd find on a bench in Munich or Milan. The replaceable-tip design reflects a workshop economy where tools are repaired rather than replaced. Worn tip? New tip. The hammer body keeps going.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA plastic-faced hammer is the right tool for headset-spacer work. Tap the spacer to compress the steerer-tube stack before final torque on the stem; the polyurethane face won't mar the spacer finish. For the framework on which hammer fits which job: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/hammers-and-striking-tools-in-the-bike-shop\"\u003eHammers and striking tools in the bike shop →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794827820,"sku":"605494","price":25.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/820a.jpg?v=1642726419"},{"product_id":"adjustable-pin-spanner","title":"Adjustable Pin Spanner Wrench - 253\/2DP-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eAn adjustable pin spanner is the tool that lets one wrench cover what would otherwise need five. Cup-and-cone bottom bracket lockrings, certain Mavic hub adjusters, vintage threaded headsets, some older suspension fork crown adjusters; they all share a common interface (two holes drilled or milled into the part) but they don't share spacing. A fixed pin spanner only fits one of them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Adjustable Pin Spanner 253\/2DP-US has two interchangeable pins (2.3 mm and 2.8 mm to match the two pin diameters you'll actually encounter on bicycle work) and a sliding adjustment that takes the pin spacing from 10 mm to 50 mm. That covers cup-and-cone BB lockrings (typically 24–30 mm), Mavic FTS-L hub adjusters (typically 30–40 mm), and the various lockring patterns on older or service-stand-specific parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe handle is long enough for the leverage cup-and-cone lockrings actually need. A short handle on a cup-and-cone lockring slips off the pins as you put weight into the swing; the 253 has enough handle to keep the pins seated against the part while you torque the lockring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it isn't\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt isn't a substitute for a proper Hollowtech II 16-notch wrench or a cassette lockring tool. Those are spline-engaged, not pin-engaged, and the engagement geometry doesn't transfer. The adjustable pin spanner is specifically for pin-style lockrings and adjusters, which is a smaller (but still ongoing) part of the workshop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt also isn't an impact tool. Hand-torque only; the pins will deform under impact loading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePin diameters: 2.3 mm and 2.8 mm (interchangeable)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePin spacing range: 10 mm to 50 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHardened chrome-vanadium body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 253\/2DP-US\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 253 pin spanner is one of those workshop tools where the adjustable design covers a category that's slowly contracting (most modern hubs and BBs have moved away from pin lockrings) but still shows up every week on older bikes and certain premium hubs. We keep it stocked because the alternative is owning five fixed spanners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pins are interchangeable for a reason: the wrong pin size in the right hole strips out the hole's edge on the first hard turn. Match the pin to the hole, snug the spanner into the part before you put weight on it, and the cup-and-cone lockring drives smoothly. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers the rest of the wrench-and-spanner layer of the workshop: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378794991660,"sku":"624933","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/253_2dp-us.jpg?v=1642715468"},{"product_id":"pedal-wrench-profi-15mm","title":"Pro Pedal Wrench - 1613\/2BI","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe long-leverage shop tool for stuck pedals\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen a pedal will not come off, the answer is almost always leverage. The Pro Pedal Wrench is 350 mm long with two offset 15 mm openings; that combination lets the wrench reach the pedal's wrench-flats at any clock position and pull against them with the lever-arm length pro mechanics need. A short wrench rounds the flats before it frees the pedal; a long one breaks the pedal loose without damaging the engagement surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe two openings are offset so that whichever way the flats face, one end lines up squarely. The wrench drops in flush instead of catching one corner of the flats at an angle. That single design choice is the difference between a stuck pedal that comes off in three minutes and one ground into uselessness over twenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt for the workshop's worst pedals\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the tool we reach for on the bikes that come in with a “pedals have been on there for ten years” note. The 350 mm length gives roughly twice the leverage of a typical home-mechanic pedal wrench. Two details earn this tool its place on the workshop bench:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003e15 mm box wrench\u003c\/strong\u003e in the body, for axle nuts on through-axle hubs and older cottered cranks. Laser-cut to the same precision as the open ends.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003ebottle opener\u003c\/strong\u003e at the handle end. Unior is a tool company; the mechanic at the end of a hard day appreciates the second function.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1613\/2BI fits any pedal with \u003cstrong\u003e15 mm wrench flats\u003c\/strong\u003e machined into the spindle. That covers most road, commuter, and MTB platform pedals. For pedals with hex-only engagement (6 mm or 8 mm at the inboard end of the spindle), see the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/speed-pedal-wrench-1613s-1bi\"\u003eSpeed Pedal Wrench 6mm\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/speed-pedal-wrench-1613s-1bi-copy\"\u003eSpeed Pedal Wrench 8mm\u003c\/a\u003e variants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLength:\u003c\/strong\u003e 350 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOpening size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 15 mm × 2 (offset, one each end)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt-in:\u003c\/strong\u003e 15 mm box wrench, bottle opener\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drop-forged steel, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFinish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Trivalent chrome plated per ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSKU:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1613\/2BI\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. As Bikerumor put it during the company's centenary year:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e“Unior is one of the rare companies to make their own tools in-house and has been doing so for a hundred years now in the same place in Slovenia.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat continuity matters most on the workshop-grade tools, where the steel grade and heat-treatment cycle are the difference between a tool that survives a decade of shop use and one that bends in its first stuck-pedal attempt. The 1613\/2BI is one of those tools.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1613\/2BI's leverage is enough to free almost any pedal at install spec, but technique matters too. Brace the crank against the chainstay before you load the wrench so the wrench arm and your body weight do the work instead of the crank arm flexing under load. Our pedal-install guide walks through the sequence we use in the shop, including the moment when stuck means switch to thread repair rather than more force: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-install-and-remove-bike-pedals\"\u003eHow to install and remove bike pedals →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795024428,"sku":"624961","price":41.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1613_2bi-us.jpg?v=1642727685"},{"product_id":"ratcheting-bottom-bracket-wrench-8mm-14mm","title":"Ratchet Wrench 14mm + 8mm","description":"\u003cp\u003eBike workshop service runs across two crank-bolt drive formats on most days. The 14 mm socket end of the 1621-1 fits the traditional square-taper crank bolt's 14 mm hex head; the 8 mm hex end fits the ISIS \/ Octalink-style splined crank bolts that take an 8 mm hex driver. Two formats, one ratchet, no tool change mid-install.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1621-1 in the 14 mm + 8 mm cut is built for that mixed workflow. 3\/8\" drive on both ends, 75-tooth ratchet engagement on both, sized to the actual install and removal job a crank service runs through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the 8 mm hex covers\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eISIS and Octalink crank bolts use an M15 splined fastener engaged by an 8 mm hex driver; that's the standard drive for Shimano Octalink (FC-M952, FC-7700 series), Truvativ \/ FSA ISIS-drive cranks, and most other splined-spindle square-taper cousins. The 8 mm hex also fits the broader population of M8-class hex-recessed fasteners across the bike (some pedal axle service caps, some crank-bolt service variants), so the ratchet covers more than one job on a workshop bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSibling product\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-1621-1-copy\"\u003eRatchet Wrench 14 mm + 15 mm\u003c\/a\u003e covers the classic vintage square-taper workflow with the 14 or 15 mm hex-head crank bolt convention. The two ratchets share the same body and 75-tooth engagement; on a shop bench that sees both vintage square-taper and ISIS \/ Octalink builds, running both is the move that keeps every install in single-wrench territory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eISIS \/ Octalink splined crank bolts (M15 splined, 8 mm hex drive)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTraditional square-taper crank bolts on the 14 mm socket side\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOther M8-class hex-recessed fasteners across the bike\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAny 3\/8\" drive socket for general use (sockets are interchangeable on the ratchet body)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrive:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3\/8\" square drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRatchet engagement:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75 teeth (~4.8° arc per tooth)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHead sizes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 14 mm socket + 8 mm hex bit, integrated to the ratchet body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e trivalent chrome plated per ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e the dual-head ratchet itself\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 14 + 8 mm cut is the side of the 1621 family that handles the ISIS \/ Octalink crank-bolt format alongside traditional square-taper hardware; one ratchet covering both engagements is the call that keeps the install from needing a second tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen an ISIS or Octalink crank bolt has been over-torqued or has corroded into the spindle, the 8 mm hex recess can strip before the bolt breaks loose; the recess depth and the hex tip's contact area aren't sized for breakaway torque on a seized bolt. If the wrench starts to slip in the recess, stop. Reach for a heavier-grip hex driver (or a hex-on-impact tool), engage the recess at full depth, and apply load slowly. A stripped 8 mm hex on a crank bolt is one of the most annoying recoveries in a workshop; the prevention is feeling the slip early and switching tools.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the crank removal procedure with puller selection: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-remove-a-crankset\"\u003eHow to remove a crankset →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"14mm \u0026 8mm","offer_id":41436860252204,"sku":"624943","price":42.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1621_1abi-us.jpg?v=1642712359"},{"product_id":"chainring-nut-wrench","title":"Chainring Nut Wrench - 1668\/2","description":"\u003cp\u003eAnyone who's swapped a chainring more than a few times knows the moment the bolt and nut decide to spin together. The hex key turns the bolt, the nut spins along with it, nothing happens, and the workshop earns a new vocabulary lesson. A nut wrench that keeps the back-side nut still while the bolt turns is the small tool that makes the whole swap go quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1668\/2 is that wrench. It's a flat-stock laser-cut tool sized to the standard chainring nut profile, with a slot on one end that engages the nut's flats without slipping under load. Hold the wrench against the nut from behind the chainring, turn the bolt from the front with a hex key, and the nut stays put while the bolt does its job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhy a dedicated wrench beats pliers\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChainring swaps happen often enough on workshop benches that “the spinning nut problem” is a recurring annoyance. The fix isn't dramatic; the 1668\/2 is bent steel with a notched end; but the bent steel is the right bend, and the notch is the right shape. A pair of pliers or a strip of inner tube can theoretically do the same job; in practice, the dedicated wrench takes ten seconds instead of two minutes and doesn't damage the chainring or the bolt head.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 10 mm hex driver is machined into the wrench body for the cases where a 10 mm hex is the call; and the same hole doubles as a hanging hole when the wrench lives on a pegboard between jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStandard chainring nuts (the flat-faced nuts used on 4-arm, 5-arm, and 110\/130 BCD chainring patterns)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAny chainring assembly where the front bolt and back nut spin against each other\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot for\u003c\/strong\u003e direct-mount chainrings with a single lockring (use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/shimano-direct-mount-lockring-tool-1723-sdl\"\u003eShimano Direct Mount Lockring Tool\u003c\/a\u003e for those)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e trivalent chrome plated per ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBonus:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10 mm hex driver machined into the wrench body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e the wrench itself\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1668\/2 is the kind of small specialized tool that has no high-margin story behind it; just a hand-tool answer to a recurring workshop annoyance, made in the same forge that produces the chain-tool spindles and the BB sockets, and priced like the simple steel part it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the nut wrench engages but the bolt still won't turn, the cause is usually corrosion on the bolt's threads, not on the engagement surfaces. Spray a penetrating lubricant on the threads from the back side (where the nut sits) and let it work for a few minutes before applying torque. Trying to muscle a corroded chainring bolt rounds the hex recess on the bolt head; at which point the bolt needs to be drilled out, and the chainring swap becomes a much longer afternoon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the crank removal procedure including chainring-bolt access on different crank designs: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-remove-a-crankset\"\u003eHow to remove a crankset →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795089964,"sku":"618415","price":6.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1668_2.jpg?v=1642722788"},{"product_id":"screw-type-chain-tool-basic","title":"Chain Tool - 1647HOBBY\/4P","description":"\u003cp\u003eNot every chain break needs a workshop tool. A home mechanic who replaces a chain twice a year, on a single bike, on a known drivetrain, doesn't need the modular insert system or the workshop-grade body. They need a chain tool that fits in a drawer, drives a pin cleanly when called on, and costs a fair price. The Chain Tool 1647HOBBY\/4P is that tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it shares with our workshop tools is the part that matters: the same 3.4 mm driving pin gauge as the Pro Chain Tool, in a smaller body. The spindle tightens the same way, the chain plate sits in the support the same way, the pin advances on-axis. What it doesn't share is the heavy-duty handle, the larger frame, or the spec range; this is corporate's deliberate home-user tool, slotted below the Pro and the Master.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDesigned for 5- through 11-speed derailleur chains. That covers most home-shop drivetrains in service today: vintage road, mountain bikes through 11-speed, gravel bikes up through Shimano GRX 11 and SRAM Force 22. It does not support SRAM AXS flat-top chains, Campagnolo 11\/12\/13-speed peening, or 1\/8″ singlespeed chains. For any of those, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/master-chain-tool\"\u003eMaster Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI\u003c\/a\u003e is the right pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe driving pin on this tool is not replaceable; the spindle and pin are a single assembly designed for the use cycle of a home mechanic rather than the daily chain-breaks of a shop bench. If you find yourself wishing the pin came out, you've outgrown the tool, and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-chain-tool\"\u003ePro Chain Tool 1647\/2ABI\u003c\/a\u003e is the next step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e5-11 speed derailleur chains\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e92 × 19.6 × 51 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e120 g\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePin diameter: 3.4 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComfortable dipped handles\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1647HOBBY\/4P-US\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The Hobby Chain Tool is the same engineering tradition applied at a smaller scale and a lower price point; the spindle threads and the driving-pin geometry come from the same workshop lineage as the Pro, but the body is sized for the toolbox of a home mechanic rather than the bench of a shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe first time you break a chain, the spindle does most of the work; the harder part is everything around it. Knowing when to break the chain (small-small on the bike, or off the drivetrain entirely on a bench), choosing the right link to break it at (avoid the master-link site if the chain has one), and where to leave a few millimeters of pin engaged for the reinstall. Our chain-replacement guide breaks down those calls and the differences between master-link and pin-pressed reinstalls: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-chain\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your chain →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795122732,"sku":"624901","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1647hobby_4p-us.jpg?v=1642722573"},{"product_id":"pro-chain-tool","title":"Professional Chain Tool - 1647\/2ABI-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eA chain tool that doesn't draw attention to itself is the kind a shop keeps using. The Pro Chain Tool 1647\/2ABI is the workshop screw-type that does the job and gets put away clean. No modular inserts, no system to learn; the chain plate sits in the support, the spindle tightens, the pin drives. That's the whole tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the spindle does is what matters. Turn the handle, the pin advances against the chain pin, the chain pin moves through the outer plate. The Pro Chain Tool's spindle is precisely-made, so the pin advances on-axis through the entire stroke; off-center pin pushes are the most common chain-break failure, and the geometry of this tool keeps them from happening. The handle is heavy-duty double-component with grip texture that survives oily hands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1647\/2ABI covers most modern derailleur chains and also supports Campagnolo 11-speed. It does not support SRAM AXS flat-top chains; the flat-top plate geometry needs the dedicated insert that ships with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/master-chain-tool\"\u003eMaster Chain Tool\u003c\/a\u003e. For shops that service modern SRAM AXS bikes, the Master is the right pick; for shops that don't, the Pro Chain Tool is the cleaner tool to keep on the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe driving pin is replaceable. Under normal use it'll outlast most home toolkits, but for benches that break chains daily we stock the matching \u003ca href=\"\/products\/chain-tool-pins\"\u003eReplacement Chain Tool Pins 1647.1\/4A\u003c\/a\u003e as a two-pack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMost 6-12 speed derailleur chains; also supports Campagnolo 11-speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e150 × 22 × 72 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e175 g\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePin diameter: 3.4 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: premium flex plus carbon steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSurface finish: trivalent chrome plated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1647\/2ABI-US\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e SRAM AXS flat-top chains require the dedicated AXS support that ships with the Master Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI; the 1647\/2ABI does not include that insert.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The Pro Chain Tool's premium flex plus carbon steel body and trivalent chrome plating are workshop-grade choices; the same finish that survives years of chain grease, brake dust, and the occasional bench coffee.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pin drive itself is the easy part. The reinstall is where most chain breaks go wrong; getting the master link in the right way around, choosing peening over a quick-link for a Campagnolo chain, knowing whether a SRAM PowerLock is reusable on the chain you just pulled. Our chain-replacement guide maps those decisions and the routing details that make the difference between a clean swap and a chain that skips on the first ride: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-chain\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your chain →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich chains does the 1647\/2ABI work with?\u003c\/strong\u003e It handles most 6- to 12-speed derailleur chains and also supports Campagnolo 11-speed. The one exception is SRAM AXS flat-top: that plate shape needs the dedicated insert that ships with the Master Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI, so AXS work belongs on the Master, not this tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs the driving pin replaceable, and what other spares exist?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. The replacement chain pins (1647.1\/4A) fit both the Pro Chain Tool 1647\/2ABI and the Master Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI, and we stock them as a two-pack. Unior also lists a steel ball (1647.3) and a pin nut (1647.2) as spares, so a worn tool can be rebuilt rather than replaced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow is this different from the Master Chain Tool?\u003c\/strong\u003e Both are workshop screw-type tools with the same replaceable pin. The Master Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI adds the modular insert system that covers SRAM AXS flat-top chains; the Pro Chain Tool skips the insert system entirely, which makes it the simpler, cheaper pick for shops that don't service AXS drivetrains.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat are the size and weight?\u003c\/strong\u003e The tool is 150 mm long, 22 mm wide, and 72 mm tall, weighs 175 g, and drives a 3.4 mm pin. The body is premium flex plus carbon steel with a trivalent chrome plating and a double-component handle, and like all Unior hand tools it carries a lifetime warranty.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795155500,"sku":"624900","price":49.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1647_2abi-us.jpg?v=1642727977"},{"product_id":"chain-tool-pins","title":"Replacement Chain Tool Pins - 1647.1\/4A","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe pin is the part of a chain tool that wears. The body lasts, the spindle threads hold up, the handle keeps its grip; the driving pin takes the load of every chain break and eventually mushrooms at the tip or develops a slight bend. When it does, the pin starts to push off-center, the chain plate deforms, and the chain tool stops being precision equipment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Replacement Chain Tool Pins 1647.1\/4A are the fix. Two pins per set, sized and finished to factory spec, and you swap them in instead of replacing the whole tool. Lifetime warranty backs the parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1647.1\/4A pins fit two tools in the catalog:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-chain-tool\"\u003ePro Chain Tool 1647\/2ABI\u003c\/a\u003e; the workshop screw-type, primary use case for daily chain-break benches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/master-chain-tool\"\u003eMaster Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI\u003c\/a\u003e; the modular-insert workshop tool, where the pin sees the most varied work across chain standards.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuy a set ahead when you start to see the pin tip taking visible deformation under a 10× loupe, or after you've broken a few hundred chains on a busy bench. The replacement is something a shop plans for, not a panic part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to swap the pin\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA pin that's still doing its job pushes a chain pin out on-axis through the entire stroke. A worn pin starts to wander: the chain pin enters the outer plate at a slight angle, the plate distorts at the rim of the hole, and the reinstalled link won't pivot cleanly. If you start to see the outer plate showing a faint elongation at the pin hole on a freshly-broken chain, the chain tool's pin is the cause, not the chain. Swap the pin, the problem goes away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSet of 2 pins\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePin diameter: 3.4 mm (with secondary 4 mm stepped section) × 24 mm length\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e10 g per set\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with Unior 1647\/2ABI (Pro Chain Tool) and 1647\/2BBI (Master Chain Tool)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLifetime warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1647.1\/4A\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Selling replacement parts for a tool that's been in production for years is the half of the catalog people don't see: it's how a workshop tool stays a workshop tool. Buy the chain tool once, replace the pin when it wears, keep using the same body for the next decade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're not sure whether the chain plate damage is from the chain or from the chain tool, break one outer plate at a fresh location and inspect: clean push means the chain tool is fine, off-center push means the pin needs replacing. Our chain-replacement guide walks through diagnosing the difference between chain-side and tool-side break problems, plus the routing details that prevent the wrong-plate-deformation issue from happening in the first place: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-chain\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your chain →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich Unior chain tools do the 1647.1\/4A pins fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e The two workshop chain tools Unior lists for this spare: the Pro Chain Tool 1647\/2ABI and the Master Chain Tool 1647\/2BBI. Unior names both tools in the part's official title, and both tools' own spec sheets list 1647.1\/4A as their replacement pin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat are the dimensions of the replacement pins?\u003c\/strong\u003e Each pin is 24 mm long with a 3.4 mm working tip and a 4 mm stepped section that seats in the tool body. The set contains two pins and weighs 10 g. The dimension drawing on this page shows where each measurement sits on the pin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow do I know when the pin in my chain tool needs replacing?\u003c\/strong\u003e Watch the tip. A worn driving pin mushrooms or takes a slight bend, and then it starts pushing chain pins through at an angle instead of on-axis — you'll see the chain's outer plate deform around the pin hole on a fresh break. Swap the pin at the first sign of tip deformation and the tool goes back to pushing straight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo the pins come singly or as a set, and what warranty applies?\u003c\/strong\u003e The 1647.1\/4A is a set of two pins, so a workshop keeps one in the tool and one in the drawer. Like Unior's tools, the pins carry a lifetime warranty.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795253804,"sku":"621734","price":2.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1647.1_4a.jpg?v=1642728416"},{"product_id":"third-hand","title":"Cable Puller (Third Hand) w\/Lock - 1642.1\/2P","description":"\u003cp\u003eYou'll understand why these are referred to as a \"Fourth Hand\" when you use it for the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis cable puller clamps lightly onto the derailleur or brake cable and cleverly allows you to tension it with one hand. The integrated locking mechanism allows you to hold that tension hands-free, allowing to you use both hands to tighten the pinch bolt and secure that cable tension.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe make it from hardened and tempered steel and the handles are double-dipped for comfort, just like your favorite ice cream cone.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795450412,"sku":"624917","price":55.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1642.1_2p-us.jpg?v=1642721981"},{"product_id":"awl-with-round-straight-blade-639a","title":"Awl w\/Straight Tip - 639A","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe straight-tip awl is the most-used awl in the shop. Open a freshly cut shift housing so the inner cable feeds without snagging. Picking out an internal cable that's wedged against a frame's downtube exit port. Scribing a steerer for the cut line. Clearing dried mud from cleat-bolt holes. Verifying that a hex socket isn't worn round by feel before reaching for the wrench. The straight tip does all of these and a dozen more small tasks that no other tool reaches cleanly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 639A is 165 mm overall; long enough for two-handed work where one hand controls the tip and the other steadies the workpiece, short enough to fit a tool roll without poking through. The steel is hardened tool steel; the handle is ergonomic-shaped composite with a flat at the back that keeps the awl from rolling off the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the straight tip does best\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOpening cable housing after a cut. The cut almost always pinches the inner liner; the awl chases the liner back to round so the cable can pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePicking at a snagged internal cable inside a frame's downtube routing. The awl reaches what your fingers can't.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eScribing reference marks on a steerer, seatpost, or stem before cutting or trimming.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eClearing dried mud from cleat-bolt heads before reaching for the hex wrench.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVerifying that an O-ring's groove is clean before reseating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor curved approaches and recessed pivots, see our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/awl-with-round-90-bent-blade-639b\"\u003e90-degree bent awl 639B\u003c\/a\u003e, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/awl-big-s-bend-tip-639c\"\u003eS-bend 639C\u003c\/a\u003e, or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/awl-big-s-bend-tip-639d\"\u003e30-degree hooked awl 639D\u003c\/a\u003e. All four tip geometries cover the work between them; the straight tip is the one you'll reach for most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e165 mm overall length\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHardened tool steel tip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComposite ergonomic handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 639A\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 639 series awls share the same hardened tool steel and the same composite-handle construction across all four tip geometries; only the tip shape changes. The hardening is what separates a shop awl that holds its point through years of daily work from a hardware-store one that bends on the first stiff cable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most underrated use of a straight awl is verifying a hex recess for wear before you commit a hex key. A worn recess looks fine but feels round to the awl tip; a clean recess catches the tip on the corners. Thirty seconds of awl-check saves the bolt that would otherwise round on the wrench. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795483180,"sku":"617773","price":7.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/639a.jpg?v=1642716131"},{"product_id":"pliers","title":"Combination Pliers - 406\/1VDEBI","description":"\u003cp\u003eCombination pliers are the tool that lives in the apron pocket. Twisting a brake-cable end straight, gripping a derailleur spring while you reinstall a pivot bolt, biting through a zip tie that's about to catch on a rotor: a working bike shop reaches for this plier dozens of times a day. The reason this one earns its keep is that the jaws are forged to last and the cutter near the pivot stays sharp under cable-strand wear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe jaw face is split into three sections, each designed for a different grip. The front jaws are serrated for round stock like cable housings and small fasteners; the middle section is knurled for flat-stock work; the side cutter at the pivot is for severing cable, zip ties, and stainless brake-housing strands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cutter is induction-hardened separately from the rest of the jaw. That's a deliberate process choice: the cutting edge gets the hardness it needs to survive thin-strand wear, while the rest of the jaw keeps the toughness it needs for grip work. A jaw that's hardened uniformly across the cutter and the gripping face becomes brittle in one place or soft in the other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dual-material handle is grippy without becoming sticky. The two-density grip absorbs hand fatigue across a long service afternoon; the harder core gives the lever stiffness you need for serious clamping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it earns its space in the bike shop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCable end crimps.\u003c\/strong\u003e Light pinch on the knurled middle section sets the cap without shearing it off.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrake housing cuts.\u003c\/strong\u003e The side cutter is sized for stainless strands; pair with a quality cable-housing cutter for cleaner ferrule ends.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eZip-tie removal.\u003c\/strong\u003e Faster than reaching for the dedicated side cutter; the front jaws steady the tie while the cutter trims.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulling a stripped quick-release lever.\u003c\/strong\u003e The serrated front jaws grip the lever shaft without marring the chrome.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHolding a derailleur spring.\u003c\/strong\u003e Front jaws clamp the spring leg so you can index the cage during reassembly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstruction: drop-forged jaws, induction-hardened cutting edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandles: dual-material grip with VDE-insulated coating\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for daily shop work; the jaws survive twenty years of pivot cycles\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The plier metallurgy is the same process used across the chain-tool and torque-wrench lines: forged from a billet, hardened and tempered, then finished with trivalent chrome plating to corrosion-resistance standards. The cutter section is induction-hardened in a separate step so the cutting edge stays sharp on stainless brake-housing strands while the rest of the jaw stays tough enough for grip work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you only own one plier, this is the one. The decision tree for when a different plier is the better call lives here: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/pliers-for-bike-work\"\u003ePliers for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"160","offer_id":34378795515948,"sku":"610421","price":25.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/406_1vdebi.jpg?v=1642722897"},{"product_id":"side-cutter-dike-nippers","title":"Diagonal Side Cutters - 461\/1VDEBI","description":"\u003cp\u003eSide cutters are the tool that decides whether a brake cable looks fraying or finished. The cutting geometry is what produces a clean cable end that takes a crimp cap cleanly, instead of a mushroomed strand that splays in the housing and snags on the brake hood. The 461\/1 is sized for shop work, with induction-hardened cutting edges that survive stainless-strand wear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it does well\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cutting edges are induction-hardened separately from the rest of the jaw. That's a process distinction worth understanding: a uniformly-hardened jaw is either too brittle at the cutting edge or too soft on the gripping back; induction hardening targets only the cutting line, which keeps the cutter sharp while the rest of the tool stays tough. The result is a cutter that takes thousands of cable-end cuts without dulling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt 140 mm overall length with an 18 mm cutting edge, this is a precision tool for cable work. The polished head looks clean in a tool cabinet; the red and orange VDE-insulated handles make the tool easy to spot in a crowded apron pocket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it earns its space in the bike shop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrake-cable end cuts.\u003c\/strong\u003e Clean strand ends accept the crimp cap without splaying.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eShift-cable trimming.\u003c\/strong\u003e Same geometry, finer-gauge cable.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eZip-tie removal.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cutting edge slides under the tie without sawing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHousing-strand cleanup.\u003c\/strong\u003e Trim the strands inside a cable housing before reassembly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eA note on stainless brake-housing strands\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModern brake housings often use stainless-steel reinforcing strands that resist axial expansion under hydraulic pressure. Those strands work-harden when cut, and a soft cutter dulls fast on them. Induction-hardened edges hold up; soft cutters give you ten clean cuts before the geometry degrades. If you've ever wondered why a budget side-cutter went dull in a season, that's the reason.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLength: 140 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCutting edge length: 18 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstruction: drop-forged tool steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCutting edges: induction-hardened\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHead finish: polished\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandles: VDE-insulated, red and orange\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The induction-hardening process is applied to the cutting edge in a separate step after the forging, which is what lets the rest of the jaw retain the toughness it needs for grip work. Hardening the cutting edge separately is what lets the jaw absorb cumulative shock load without micro-cracking at the cutter; uniformly-hardened steel becomes either too brittle at the cutter or too soft on the grip back, and targeted induction-hardening avoids both failure modes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you cut a lot of cable, a quality side-cutter is the difference between clean ends and a season of frustration. For the broader plier-choice tree, including when to reach for a combination plier's side cutter versus this dedicated tool: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/pliers-for-bike-work\"\u003ePliers for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"140mm","offer_id":34378795548716,"sku":"610426","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/461_1vdebi.jpg?v=1642729268"},{"product_id":"brake-caliper-for-1689-1689-2","title":"Rotor Truing Gauge - 1689.2","description":"\u003cp\u003eA bent rotor doesn't announce itself the way a out-of-true rim does. The wheel is true through the calipers and the brakes still rub somewhere in the rotation, or the lever feel goes mushy as the rotor's high spot drifts past the pad twice per revolution. The Rotor Truing Gauge 1689.2 turns that diagnostic from a guessing game into a direct read.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe gauge mounts into the accessory slot on the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-truing-stand-1689\"\u003ePro Truing Stand 1689\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/wheel-centering-stand-for-home-use-1688\"\u003ePortable Truing Stand 1688\u003c\/a\u003e and indexes against the rotor face. Slide the indicator toward the disc, spin the wheel, and watch the gauge: a true rotor reads constant; a bent rotor reads the magnitude and the angular position of the deviation. Height-adjust to match the rotor diameter (160 \/ 180 \/ 200 \/ 220 mm rotors all work), then move the indicator inward until it's just touching the rotor face at rest.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe accuracy of this gauge is the difference between guessing where the rotor is bent and knowing. Once you know, the truing fork can fix it; and once the rotor reads constant through a full rotation, the caliper rub is either fixed or the caliper is the source of the problem, not the rotor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTruing stands: \u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-truing-stand-1689\"\u003ePro Truing Stand 1689\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/wheel-centering-stand-for-home-use-1688\"\u003ePortable Truing Stand 1688\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRotor diameters: 160, 180, 200, 220 mm; all standard disc-brake rotor sizes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRotor mount: works on both 6-bolt and Centerlock rotors (the gauge reads against the rotor face, not the mount).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMax rotor thickness: 2.4 mm (covers all standard road and MTB rotors, which top out around 2.3 mm).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMount: indexes into the truing stand's accessory slot.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdjustment: height for rotor diameter, depth for rotor face position.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/rotor-truing-fork-2-0\"\u003eRotor Truing Fork 2.0\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/rotor-truing-fork-16662dp-us\"\u003eRotor Truing Fork 1666\/2DP\u003c\/a\u003e for the actual truing pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1689.2 is the disc-brake-era complement to the wheel-truing workflow: rim truing tells you the wheel is round; rotor truing tells you the rotor is. Most workshops add this gauge to the truing-stand kit the first time they spend ten minutes chasing a brake rub that turned out to be a rotor problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRead the rotor first, then read the wheel. A wheel that runs true through the calipers but rubs the caliper at one point in the rotation almost always has a rotor problem, not a rim problem. Mount the 1689.2 before you reach for spoke wrenches; ten seconds of rotor diagnosis saves twenty minutes of unnecessary truing. The full disc-brake-era truing workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795843628,"sku":"622603","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1689.2.png?v=1642728746"},{"product_id":"bushing-extractor-set-12-12-7mm","title":"Rear Shock Bushing Extractor Set - 1701\/5","description":"\u003cp\u003eRear-shock eyelet bushings wear. The shock moves on them every pedal stroke and every bump, and bushings that started as a press fit drift loose enough to let the shock body knock against the eyelet at the end of every compression. Replacing them is not optional; it is the maintenance interval that decides whether the shock works at low compression or starts hammering itself apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bushings come out hard, though. A hand press, a hammer-driven pin, or whatever is on the bench tends to damage the eyelet bore on the way through, and a damaged bore means a new shock, not a new bushing. The 1701\/5 is the press tool that gets the bushing out cleanly without loading the eyelet wall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow the set works\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1701\/5 ships with the press hardware sized to act on 12 mm and 12.7 mm eyelet bushings; the two diameters that cover the modern rear-shock catalog across all the major shock manufacturers. The press tool pairs with a bench vise: the vise supplies the press force, the 1701\/5 supplies the geometry that concentrates the force on the bushing without spreading load to the eyelet wall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePress the bushing out in seconds, press the new one in to the correct depth, mount the shock back on the frame. The whole sequence runs at the bench in the time it takes to remove the wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatibility: 12 mm and 12.7 mm eyelet bushings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUse: paired with a bench vise\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: steel, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFinish: trivalent chrome plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle: 1701\/5\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The press faces are hardened and tempered; the load is concentrated where the eyelet bushing meets the press tool and nowhere else. The geometry exists because the alternatives, punches and presses with mismatched faces, keep damaging the eyelet bore on the way through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRear-shock bushing service is the parallel procedure to fork lower-leg service. Different tool family, same service-interval logic: a bushing that has done its mileage no longer holds the shock body square in the eyelet, and the symptoms read like a tired shock right up to the point you tear the shock down and find the bushings are the fix.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-service-suspension-fork-lower-legs\"\u003eHow to service your suspension fork's lower legs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795876396,"sku":"623006","price":33.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1701_5.jpg?v=1642728301"},{"product_id":"chain-wear-indicator","title":"Manual Chain Wear Indicator - 1644\/2","description":"\u003cp\u003eA go\/no-go gauge gives one answer: it fits, or it doesn't. The Manual Chain Wear Indicator 1644\/2 is the cycling version of that workshop standard. Drop it across two links of a chain, push down, and the chain either holds it or lets it drop. Holds it, the chain is still inside service tolerance. Drops, the chain needs replacing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere's no dial, no electronic reading, no calibration to wonder about. The 1644\/2 is a flat piece of laser-cut steel with two reference faces, each cut to a published tolerance. It's the simplest answer to “is this chain done.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow to read it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo zones are stamped on the tool:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e0 to 0.6%\u003c\/strong\u003e is the no-wear side. If the gauge sits without dropping in on this end, the chain is still inside its service window.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e0.7% to 1.2%\u003c\/strong\u003e is the wear side. If the gauge drops in here, the chain is past replacement and the cassette teeth are next in line.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe decision is binary. There's no in-between reading to second-guess.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen this is the right call\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 0.7% replacement trigger is the legacy chain-wear convention. It's accurate for \u003cstrong\u003e6- through 10-speed\u003c\/strong\u003e drivetrains, where wider cog spacing gives the chain a little more room before deformation cascades into the cassette.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModern 11-, 12-, and 13-speed chains want a tighter call. Current chain-maker guidance is to swap a narrow-spaced chain at or before 0.5%, and the 1644\/2's drop-over only triggers at 0.7%. On those drivetrains, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/chain-wear-indicator-1644-6\"\u003eChain Wear Indicator 1644\/6\u003c\/a\u003e reads both 0.5% and 0.75% directly and is the right tool for the speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the 1644\/2 still earns its space is on the older bikes, in the home toolkit that needs to be cheap and small enough to live in a drawer, and as the second gauge on a shop bench that's already running a more granular reader.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e122.5 × 37 × 2 mm (with a 12.7 mm reference length for pin-to-pin spacing)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e40 g\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrecision laser-cut steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGo\/no-go reading at 0.7% replacement threshold\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLifetime warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1644\/2\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1644\/2 is the entry-level chain-wear tool in the catalog, and the design reflects what the workshop standard quality-assurance gauge has always been: a known reference shape that either fits or doesn't, ground to a tolerance the user can trust. The cheap version of that gauge is a Popsicle stick with two notches scratched into it. This one is laser-cut steel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA go\/no-go reading doesn't tell you when the chain crossed the line, only that it has. Our chain-replacement guide explains what's happening on the cassette teeth between the two readings the 1644\/2 won't separate, why the 0.5% versus 0.75% distinction matters once you know which drivetrain you're on, and how to plan a new chain in before the cassette pays for the delay: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-chain\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your chain →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat counts as excessive wear on a bike chain?\u003c\/strong\u003e Elongation past the replacement threshold. On the 1644\/2's wear side, marked 0.7% to 1.2%, a chain that lets the gauge drop in is overdue for replacement; the cassette teeth take the damage next.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich drivetrains suit the 1644\/2's 0.7% replacement threshold?\u003c\/strong\u003e The 0.7% trigger is the legacy convention and stays right for 6- through 10-speed drivetrains, whose wider cog spacing tolerates more elongation before the cassette suffers. Chains for 11-speed and up, 12- and 13-speed included, should be swapped at or before 0.5%, a reading the Chain Wear Indicator 1644\/6 makes directly on its body.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes the Manual Chain Wear Indicator need calibrating?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. It's a flat gauge in laser-cut steel whose two reference faces are cut to published tolerances; there's no dial or electronic reading to drift, and the tool carries a lifetime warranty.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378795941932,"sku":"617171","price":12.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1644_4.jpg?v=1642726473"},{"product_id":"digital-vernier-0-150mm","title":"Digital Vernier Caliper 0-150mm - 270A","description":"\u003cp\u003eA bike comes in with a stubborn headset that the customer keeps tightening. The cup-and-cone adjustment is in spec, the fork crown clears the head tube cleanly, the bearings feel good. Five tries later, nothing's changed. The thing you haven't checked is whether the head tube itself has gone slightly oval. The 270A Digital Vernier Caliper is what tells you that in three seconds; by measuring the head tube ID at two perpendicular axes and reading the difference on the screen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 270A reads to a hundredth of a millimeter over a 0-150 mm range, in either millimeters or inches at the press of a button. The stainless steel frame holds calibration through everyday workshop handling; the digital readout removes the squint-and-interpret step that catches mechanics out on vernier scales the first few times they read one. Hard or soft jaws (the outside, inside, and depth jaws are all available on a single caliper) cover most measurement geometries you'll encounter on a working bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it measures, in practical bike-shop terms\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRotor thickness against the manufacturer's published minimum (Shimano typically 1.5 mm minimum on common road rotors)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAxle outer diameter when sourcing a matching dust seal or bearing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHead-tube ID across two perpendicular axes (the oval-detection check)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSteerer outer diameter at a sleeved section vs. an unsleeved section\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCassette spacer thickness when verifying a 142x12 vs. 148x12 conversion\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpoke length (with the depth jaw extended) when verifying a wheel build's spoke order\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 270A is a precision instrument. That means it gets damaged by being dropped on a concrete floor, by being soaked in parts cleaner, or by being run through the bench grinder by mistake (yes, this has happened). It's worth its case.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e0–150 mm \/ 0–6\" range\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDigital readout (Unior corporate spec sheet for published resolution)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStainless steel frame\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOutside, inside, and depth jaws\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003emm \/ inch toggle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage case included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1-year warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 270A\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 270A is the digital companion to our analog \u003ca href=\"\/products\/vernier-caliper-271\"\u003eVernier Caliper 271\u003c\/a\u003e. Both live in different parts of the workflow; the digital reads fast and authoritative on the bench; the analog gets dropped without consequence in the road kit. Most working shops own both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single best diagnostic for a customer's stubborn headset adjustment is verifying the head tube hasn't ovalized. A 0.05 mm difference across the head tube ID is enough to drive a customer crazy with a headset that won't stay adjusted. Two seconds with the 270A and you have the answer. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers the measurement layer of the shop in detail: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796007468,"sku":"619881","price":79.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/270a.jpg?v=1642723773"},{"product_id":"campagnolo-cassette-remover","title":"Campagnolo Cassette Lockring Tool - 1670.4\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eCampagnolo's cassette lockring uses a different splined pattern from Shimano and SRAM, and the difference is enough that an HG-pattern tool slips and rounds the splines on contact. The 1670.4\/4 is the Unior socket sized to the Campagnolo lockring, with a 24 mm wrench flat and a 1\/2\" drive on the opposite face; the same back-end format as the rest of our cassette-lockring family, just with the Campy-pattern engagement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorkshops that service Italian road bikes need this tool in the drawer. Campagnolo Record, Chorus, Centaur, and Athena cassettes from 9-speed through current Super Record EPS 12-speed all use the Campagnolo lockring pattern. Fulcrum wheels (Campagnolo's wheelset division) ship with the same lockring on freehub-equipped wheelsets. Campagnolo Ekar 13-speed gravel cassettes use a different freehub interface but retain the Campagnolo-pattern lockring on top.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow to use it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProcedure is the same as the Shimano\/SRAM workflow: hold the cassette still with a chain whip on one of the larger cogs, register the 1670.4\/4 in the lockring, and turn counter-clockwise with a 1\/2\" ratchet or a 24 mm wrench. Campagnolo publishes 50 Nm as the lockring torque spec; a touch higher than Shimano\/SRAM's 40 Nm; so expect the break-free to take a firm motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're servicing both Shimano\/SRAM and Campagnolo cassettes regularly, the 1670.4\/4 lives next to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/shimano-cassette-lock-ring-tool\"\u003e1670.5\/4\u003c\/a\u003e in the cassette-tool tray. The two sockets are sized to different splined patterns; mixing them up wastes splines. Mark one with paint or tape on the body if your bench tends toward fast service.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCampagnolo cassettes, 9-speed through 12-speed (Veloce, Centaur, Chorus, Record, Super Record)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCampagnolo Ekar 13-speed gravel cassettes (Campagnolo lockring pattern is retained)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFulcrum wheelsets with Campagnolo-spline freehubs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot for Shimano or SRAM cassettes (use \u003ca href=\"\/products\/shimano-cassette-lock-ring-tool\"\u003e1670.5\/4\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/freewheel-remover-with-guide-pin\"\u003e1670.7\/4\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-remover-with-handle\"\u003e1670.8\/2BI-US\u003c\/a\u003e, or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/12mm-thru-axle-hub-cassette-remover\"\u003e1670.9\/4\u003c\/a\u003e)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCampagnolo splined lockring pattern\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e24 mm hex wrench flat\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive socket on the opposite face\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTrivalent chrome plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1670.4\/4\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Campagnolo and Unior are both European heritage brands that have kept manufacturing close to home; Vicenza for Campagnolo, Zreče for Unior. The 1670.4\/4 is what happens when a Slovenian forge builds the tool for an Italian groupset: same materials, same trivalent-chrome finish, same construction call as the rest of the Unior cassette-lockring line, with the engagement pattern that matches the Campagnolo cassette on the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCampagnolo lockrings retain a 12-tooth small cog as the catalog's lower limit on current 11- and 12-speed cassettes, which keeps the chain-whip workflow simple; our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/1660-2dp-us-multispeed-chainwhip\"\u003eMultispeed Chainwhip 1660\/2DP-US\u003c\/a\u003e covers 6-12 speed cogs and pairs with the 1670.4\/4 directly. Ekar 13-speed cassettes do drop below 12 teeth on the small cog (9 or 10 tooth depending on the option), where a chain whip won't seat; the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/cassette-wrench-1670-2bi-us-copy-copy\"\u003eCassette Wrench X Range\u003c\/a\u003e was sized for SRAM 10t but covers the Ekar small-cog range as well. The cassette-replacement workflow walks through the chain-whip-versus-cassette-wrench decision: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/when-and-how-to-replace-your-cassette\"\u003eWhen and how to replace your cassette →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796073004,"sku":"616707","price":15.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1670.4_4.jpg?v=1642722029"},{"product_id":"hacksaw-400-750b-us","title":"Hacksaw - 750B","description":"\u003cp\u003eA working bike shop uses a hacksaw more often than most mechanics expect. Steerer tubes get cut to length on every fork install. Seatposts get trimmed for riders whose frame is at the upper bound of their fit. Handlebars get shortened for racers. TT-bar extensions get cut to match a fitter's spec. Bolts that protrude past the part they're threaded into get shortened. None of these jobs have a quick alternative.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 750B Hacksaw is the saw that handles all of them. The frame is steel, sized for a standard 12\" \/ 300 mm blade, and tensioned hard enough that the blade tracks straight under load. The blade tension is the detail that separates a hacksaw that cuts a square edge from one that wanders. A flexing frame curves the cut; a stiff frame holds the blade on its line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe saw ships with a 24-TPI metal-cutting blade installed. That's the right starter blade for steel steerers, aluminum seatposts, brass cable-end caps, and most of the metal cuts a shop does. For carbon-fiber cuts (carbon steerers, carbon seatposts, carbon handlebars), switch to our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/carbon-saw-blade-for-750b-2-pcs-set-300-750-1car\"\u003eceramic-style abrasive blades\u003c\/a\u003e; the metal blade leaves a frayed edge on carbon, the ceramic blade abrades a smooth one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat makes a shop hacksaw different\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo details. First, blade tension. The 750B's tensioning mechanism takes the blade to high tension without flexing the frame. Cheap hacksaws use a wing-nut tensioner that loses tension during the cut; the 750B holds tension through a long cut. Second, blade alignment. The pins on both ends of the frame hold the blade in plane with the frame body, so the blade can't twist during the cut and leave a non-square edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe handle is shaped for both hand positions: pistol-grip for power on the push, palm-on for control during a slow finishing cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBlade options\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/hacksaw-blades-2-pack-750-1b\"\u003e24-TPI high-speed steel blade\u003c\/a\u003e; for steel, aluminum, and brass cuts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/carbon-saw-blade-for-750b-2-pcs-set-300-750-1car\"\u003eCeramic-style abrasive blade\u003c\/a\u003e; for carbon fiber\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth blades fit the same 750B frame.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSteel frame\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e12\" \/ 300 mm standard hacksaw blade compatibility\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTensioning mechanism for high blade tension\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 750B\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 750B is the workshop-grade hacksaw in Unior's hand-tool catalog, sized and tensioned for the precision cuts a bike shop needs. The same frame design is used in the broader Unior industrial catalog for general-purpose metal cutting; the bicycle workshop selection is the same tool at the same quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single best tip for a clean hacksaw cut: clamp the workpiece firmly in the vise so the cut line is just above the jaws, and let the saw's weight do the work. Forcing the saw down speeds up nothing and makes the cut wander. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers cutting and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer in detail: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":39596302172204,"sku":"621531","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/750b-us.jpg?v=1642725037"},{"product_id":"shimano-hub-15mm-socket-bit","title":"15mm 1\/2\" Socket - 192\/2HX","description":"\u003cp\u003eSelect Shimano MTB hubs use a 15 mm hex on the axle's end for service work. Specifically, certain freehub-body engagement nuts and a few cup-and-cone adjustment fittings on older Shimano XT and SLX hubs accept a 15 mm hex tip. A standard 15 mm hex key (an L-shaped Allen wrench) works for some of these; but where the access geometry calls for a socket on a ratchet (the most common service position for a hub-axle service), the 192\/2HX is the right tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 192\/2HX is a 15 mm hex socket on a 1\/2\" square drive. The 1\/2\" drive accepts our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-190-1-1abi-us-copy-copy\"\u003e1\/2\" ratchet\u003c\/a\u003e or any other 1\/2\" drive ratchet or torque wrench. The hex working profile is dimensioned to ISO standard, with the bit profile sized for a clean engagement against the hub's 15 mm hex without play.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen you'll need it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eServicing certain Shimano XT, SLX, and Deore MTB hub freehub bodies (refer to the specific hub's service manual for confirmation)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemoving or installing a Shimano cup-and-cone hub's cone-side adjustment cap on hubs that use a 15 mm hex\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAny service work where the access angle calls for a socket on a ratchet rather than an L-key; typically when the hub is in a wheel and the wheel is in the bike\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlways check the specific hub's service manual to confirm the 15 mm hex applies before reaching for the tool. Newer Shimano hubs have moved away from this engagement; older ones still use it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it isn't\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt isn't a 15 mm hex bit for a 1\/4\" or 3\/8\" ratchet (those are the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/1-4-drive-metric-hex-bits-187-2hx\"\u003e1\/4\" drive hex bit set 187\/2HX\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/3-8-hex-socket-bit\"\u003e3\/8\" hex bit socket\u003c\/a\u003e lines). The 192\/2HX is specifically the 1\/2\" drive size for the hub-service use case.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt isn't a substitute for a 15 mm pedal wrench. Pedal wrenches use a different engagement geometry (the pedal's wrench flat, not a hex) and the 192\/2HX won't fit a standard pedal flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e15 mm hex working profile\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrop-forged chrome-vanadium, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eChrome plated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 192\/2HX\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 192\/2HX is part of Unior's hex-socket-bit family, sized for the bicycle workshop's specific engagement geometries. Same drop-forged chrome-vanadium and same hardening process as the rest of the socket line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlways check the Shimano service manual for the hub model before assuming the 15 mm hex applies. Shimano has changed engagement standards across hub generations, and the wrong tool on a stubborn hub axle does damage faster than the right tool releases the axle. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers socket selection and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796302380,"sku":"624034","price":10.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/192_2hx.jpg?v=1642712430"},{"product_id":"external-retaining-ring-circlip-pliers","title":"External Retaining Ring Circlip Pliers - 532PLUS\/1DP-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eExternal retaining rings sit on a shaft and hold a part against an external shoulder; a seal carrier on an air-spring shaft, a bearing on a derailleur pulley, a retainer on a brake-lever pivot. They are the most common retaining-ring class in modern bicycle service, and removing them requires pliers whose jaws spread on squeeze, not close. The 532PLUS\/1DP-US is the straight-jaw external-ring pliers built for the standard-position access on a shaft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe jaw tips drop into the ring's outer holes; squeezing the handles spreads the jaws apart, expanding the ring outward and freeing it from the shaft groove. Release the squeeze, the ring snaps back to its retaining diameter. The motion is the opposite of the internal pliers; the workflow is the same.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat we use it for, in the shop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExternal rings on air-spring shafts retaining seal carriers and end stops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExternal rings on derailleur pulley axles and jockey-wheel shafts.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExternal rings on brake-lever pivot pins and shifter-internal pivots.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExternal rings on every shaft-mounted retaining ring where the access is from a direct, unobstructed angle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePairs with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/internal-retaining-ring-circlip-pliers\"\u003einternal-ring 536PLUS\/1DP-US\u003c\/a\u003e; a full circlip-pliers workshop owns both internal and external, since the same service often calls for one of each.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eJaw geometry: straight, external (jaws spread on squeeze, expanding the ring)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: premium plus carbon steel, drop-forged\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHeat treatment: hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFinish: trivalent chrome plated to ISO 1456:2009\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle: 532PLUS\/1DP-US\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Straight-jaw geometry for external rings; axle ends, shafts, every retaining ring on a lever or pulley. The drop-forged premium plus carbon steel keeps the jaw tips sharp across years of seal-carrier and bearing-retainer service; trivalent chrome plating per ISO 1456:2009 keeps the finish through workshop solvent and grease without flaking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eExternal rings retain seal carriers, and the seal carriers register the seal-driver depth on a deeper-than-lower-legs service. The procedure does not call for this tool at the home interval. The next service interval, into the air-spring assembly, is when this tool earns its spot in the drawer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-service-suspension-fork-lower-legs\"\u003eHow to service your suspension fork's lower legs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796335148,"sku":"625125","price":23.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/532plus_1dp-us.jpg?v=1642724385"},{"product_id":"dt-swiss-torx-nipple-wrench-1630dt4pr","title":"DT Swiss T20 Squorx Spoke Wrench - 1630\/4DTPR","description":"\u003cp\u003eDT Swiss Squorx nipples solved one of the perennial frustrations of wheelbuilding: rounded nipples. The Squorx system uses a double-sided nipple, with a male Torx (T20) on the rim-facing end and a standard square drive on the hub-facing end. Either side can drive the nipple, depending on which side of the rim the builder works from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis wrench is the Torx-side driver. It engages the T20 male Torx end of the Squorx nipple, and per Unior's published guidance for this wrench, the Torx end of the nipple needs to be on the hub side of the rim during the build. The Torx geometry distributes the working torque across six contact lobes rather than four flats; the contact area is larger, the engagement is positive, and the nipple stays drivable through repeated truing passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you build (or have built) your wheels with the Squorx drive on the inside of the rim instead, with the Torx end facing the rim, then this isn't the wrench you need; the companion square-drive variant in the same product family is. The two configurations correspond to whether you'd rather thread spokes from the inside or the outside of the rim during assembly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNipples: DT Swiss Squorx, T20 male Torx on the rim-facing end.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrive side: rim end (T20). The hub-end square drive uses a different tool.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheelsets: DT Swiss wheels, third-party wheels built with DT Swiss Squorx nipples.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEngagement: T20 male Torx.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned specifically for the DT Swiss Squorx nipple system.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRequired orientation: Torx end of the nipple on the hub side of the rim.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. DT Swiss is a long-running partner in the wheelbuilding world, and their Squorx system is one of the smarter engineering decisions in modern wheel manufacturing. A workshop equipped to service DT Swiss wheels needs the matching driver; the 1630\/4DTPR is that driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSquorx nipples are forgiving in a way standard aluminum nipples aren't; the Torx engagement is harder to round, and the double-sided drive lets you switch sides if one end gets damaged. But that forgiveness can mask poor wrench technique. Use the same one-quarter-turn discipline as you would on a standard nipple; the strength of the Squorx system isn't an excuse to over-torque the build. The wheel-truing workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796466220,"sku":"623448","price":16.5,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1630_4dtpr.jpg?v=1648050324"},{"product_id":"socket-wrench-with-tbi-handle-5-5-629tbi-us","title":"5.5mm Hex Nipple Driver - 629TBI","description":"\u003cp\u003eSome modern wheelsets; many aero road builds in particular; use internal spoke nipples with a 5.5 mm hex recess instead of the standard slot, square, or Torx geometries. The 629TBI is the dedicated driver for that 5.5 mm hex recess.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tool has a 125 mm shank, long enough to reach the nipples on the deepest aero rims commonly in service (50, 60, even 70 mm deep-section rims). A shorter driver bottoms out against the outer rim before the hex tip reaches the nipple recess; the 125 mm length closes that gap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe three-component handle is the workshop-comfort decision. A driver used through a full wheel-build session; 32 nipples driven through engagement, depth-set, and tension; gets used hundreds of times. The handle's grip needs to stay comfortable across that volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNipples: 5.5 mm hex-recess internal spoke nipples.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRims: any rim profile up to and including 70+ mm deep-section aero builds (the 125 mm shank reaches through deep rims that other drivers don't).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: most modern aero road wheelsets with hex-recess nipples.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEngagement: 5.5 mm hex tip.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShank length: 125 mm (clears deep-section aero rims).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle: three-component, sized for workshop comfort.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 5.5 mm hex nipple has been a Mavic and DT Swiss preference for some of their premium aero wheels, and other manufacturers have adopted similar geometries for their own deep-section builds. The 629TBI is the Unior-built driver that matches the published nipple recess; a generic 5.5 mm hex driver won't have the deep-rim shank length, and a standard nipple driver doesn't engage hex recesses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen servicing an unfamiliar wheelset, check the nipple recess geometry before reaching for any driver. A 5.5 mm hex recess looks superficially like a small square recess; a 5.5 mm hex driver in a square nipple will turn the nipple briefly before rounding it off. The recess geometry is visible from the rim side once the tire is off; if it's a hex (six sides), use the 629TBI; if it's a square, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/square-nipple-screwdriver\"\u003eSquare Profile Nipple Driver 1751\/2Q\u003c\/a\u003e is the right tool. The full wheel-building workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796662828,"sku":"625213","price":11.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/629tbi-us.jpg?v=1642713647"},{"product_id":"measuring-tape-3m","title":"3m\/10ft Tape Measure - 710R-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eA metric tape measure is harder to source in the US than it should be. Most hardware-store tapes read in feet and inches first, with a metric scale shrunk to the bottom edge; useful enough until you need to read a 1-millimeter increment on a fork's recommended axle-to-crown spec, and the millimeter marks are crowded against the imperial half-inches. The 710R-US reads both scales clearly, with the metric scale running the full length of the tape rather than being a secondary annotation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tape is 3 meters \/ 10 feet long. That's the length you need for measuring frame reach (the longer the reach, the more critical a non-stretching tape), wheel diameter (a 700c wheel measures around 670 mm at the bead seat), bar widths (a wide gravel bar is 480-500 mm), and most of the dimensional checks a working shop does on a daily basis. Shorter tapes (like a 1m model) work for smaller measurements but stop short of frame-geometry work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen you'll reach for the tape and not the caliper\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe caliper handles fine measurements at small ranges. The tape handles coarser measurements at long ranges. Both are necessary; neither replaces the other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTape work: bar width, frame reach, wheel circumference for cyclo-computer calibration, stand height when assembling a customer's bike for size, the distance between two bolts that need to be at a specific spacing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaliper work: rotor thickness, axle outer diameter, head tube inner diameter, spacer thickness, anything where 0.01 mm matters. See our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/digital-vernier-0-150mm\"\u003edigital\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/vernier-caliper-271\"\u003eanalog vernier caliper\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3 meters \/ 10 feet length\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMetric and imperial scales (both read full-length)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBelt clip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 710R-US\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 710R-US is one of the small workshop fundamentals Unior catalogs alongside its bike-specific tools. A metric tape measure is a working-shop staple in any country that runs on metric measurements; it's a niche find in the US, which is why we stock it for US shops working on European-built bikes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single most-overlooked tape-measure use in a bike shop is calibrating a cyclo-computer's wheel circumference for a specific tire. The published spec for a tire is approximate; the actual rollout (mounted, inflated, with the rider's weight) is what the computer needs. Rolling the wheel one full revolution and measuring the distance traveled with the tape is the right answer. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers measurement tools and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796892204,"sku":"625129","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/710r-us.jpg?v=1642713371"},{"product_id":"tweezers","title":"Tweezers - 1344","description":"\u003cp\u003eA pair of working tweezers does the small-part jobs that fingers can't. Fishing a snapped shift-cable end out of a brake-lever barrel adjuster. Pulling an electronic shifter wire through a routing port. Placing fork-bushing shims during a fork rebuild. Picking out a stuck drop of grease, fiber, or metal-shaving from a recessed bearing surface. The tweezers don't replace any larger tool; they fit in the gap where dexterity matters more than torque.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1344 tweezers are sized for general workshop use, with tips precise enough for small parts but body length enough to reach into a frame's recessed areas (a fork lower's bushing seat, a derailleur's barrel adjuster, a downtube exit port). The construction is stainless steel; the tips don't rust in damp shop conditions, and the body retains shape after years of grip-and-release work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere the tweezers earn their place\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFishing shift wires (mechanical or electronic) out of frames during routing or service\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePlacing fork-bushing shims or fork-lower seals during a fork rebuild\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePicking a snapped cable end out of a barrel adjuster or housing exit\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLifting an O-ring out of a recessed groove during seal service\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePicking metal shavings out of a freshly tapped thread before installing fresh hardware\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe dozen other \"small thing in a small space\" jobs a working bench generates\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've worked on bikes for a while, you don't need to be told what these are for. If you haven't, the tweezers will earn their drawer within the first week.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStainless steel construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrecision tips\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1344\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1344 tweezers are one of those workshop tools that doesn't have a specifically-bicycle origin; they're useful in any workshop that handles small parts in tight spaces. The bicycle workshop is one of those contexts; the same tweezers serve electronics work, watchmaking, and similar small-precision trades.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTweezers are the most-borrowed tool on a working bench, and the one that disappears most quickly. A pair clipped to a magnetic holder near the bench is the working-shop equivalent of \"keep them on you\"; visible, accessible, hard to lose. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers the small-tool layer of a working shop: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796924972,"sku":"619282","price":8.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1344.jpg?v=1642731797"},{"product_id":"bearing-press","title":"Universal Bearing Press - 1721","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Universal Bearing Press 1721 is a hand-driven, threaded-shaft press kit for the cartridge bearings on a modern bike: headset cartridges, external bottom bracket cup bearings, and most hub bearings. A drift matched to the bearing's outer race diameter draws it into its bore square and fully seated, with no hammering and no side load. It's a bench tool for shops and home mechanics who'd rather press a bearing once than buy it twice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSquare seating is the whole job. Push a press-fit bearing in cocked and it binds and wears out in a season; push it through the inner race and you crush the seal and contaminate the grease before the bike leaves the stand. A bearing whose grease is contaminated at install isn't a long-term bearing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1721 is a threaded-shaft press with a handle on one end and a drift on the other. Slip the matching drift onto the press shaft and draw the bearing into its bore by turning the handle. Steady, controlled pressure throughout; no chance of glancing the drift off-axis. The force transmits through the drift to the bearing's outer race only, which keeps the seal between the two races intact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe drift assortment covers the common bearing outside-diameter range across all three. The drifts live in a laser-cut SOS foam tray inside a plastic case, so they stay paired with the press and don't migrate into the bench drawer. The size match is what “universal” means here: the right drift for the bearing, not a generic mid-size that might or might not bear on the right surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePressing is half of any bearing job. The old bearing comes out first (the Bearing Puller's side of the bench), and the bore gets cleaned and inspected before the new one goes in. The handoff between the two, hubs and headsets alike, is in our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/bearing-and-headset-service\"\u003efull service walkthrough\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: threaded-shaft press, hand-driven\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrift set: sized for the common bearing OD range across headset, BB, and hub bearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage: laser-cut SOS foam tray in a plastic case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSKU: 623301\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Press body, threaded shaft, handle, full drift assortment in the foam tray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1721's drift set is the load-bearing decision in the design; a press without the right drifts is a press that bottoms out on the wrong surface. Unior makes the drifts and the press together so the kit fits the bearings the catalog actually services.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the press resistance suddenly stiffens, the bearing is bottomed in its bore. Stop. A few more turns past bottom doesn't make the bearing more seated; it just compresses the cup or shell against whatever face is on the other side, which (for a headset) is the face you carefully prepped with the head-tube reamer and facer earlier in the same build. Press to the bottom, stop, back the press off, move on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe headset prep workflow the 1721 sits inside is in our walk-through: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796957740,"sku":"623301","price":299.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1721.jpg?v=1642720209"},{"product_id":"pocket-wheel-truing-tool-17536","title":"Pocket Wheel Truing Tool - 1753\/6","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe truing stand stays on the bench. The 1753\/6 goes in the saddlebag or the seatpack, and it's the answer to a wheel that goes out of true forty miles from anywhere.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1753\/6 straps to a seatstay or a chainstay and provides a fixed reference against which the rim's wobble can be seen. Adjust the indicator inward until it's just touching the rim sidewall through a full rotation; the high spots will tap the indicator, the low spots will gap it, and the lateral deviation becomes visible to the eye in the same way a brake pad would have indicated it on a rim-brake bike. The difference is that a disc-brake bike doesn't have a brake pad near the rim to reference against, so the 1753\/6 supplies the reference the modern brake configuration removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe say “possibly one of our favorite tools” about the 1753\/6 not because it's the most clever piece in the wheelbuilding catalog; it's not, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spoke-tension-meter-2-0\"\u003eSpoke Tension Meter 2.0\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-truing-stand-1689\"\u003ePro Truing Stand 1689\u003c\/a\u003e take that crown; but because the 1753\/6 has saved more rides than any other tool we make. Adventure rides, gravel rides, bike tours, enduros, multi-day stage races: the wheel that knocks out of true on day one of a five-day trip is the wheel that ends the trip unless you can put it back true on the side of the trail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: any standard rim profile.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFrames: any frame with seatstays or chainstays (which is all of them).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBrake types: works alongside rim brakes (redundant) and disc brakes (essential).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRequired: a single spoke wrench sized to the wheel's nipples. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spoke-wrench-3-3-16302a\"\u003eSpoke Wrench 3.3mm\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spoke-wrench-1630-2a-copy\"\u003e3.45mm\u003c\/a\u003e bare-handle wrenches are the natural trailside companions; pair with the 1753\/6 in the saddlebag.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStrap-on mount to seatstay or chainstay.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eManually-adjustable indicator (no calibration required).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompact, kit-pocketable form factor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1753\/6 isn't a workshop tool; it's a trail-side tool that exists because the modern disc-brake bike took away the brake-pad-as-truing-reference that an older generation of mechanics took for granted. A small piece of equipment, solving a specific problem that didn't exist twenty years ago.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePractice trailside truing before the trip, not on the side of the trail. Mount the 1753\/6 on a wheel that's true, then on a wheel that's slightly out of true, and notice the difference in how the indicator behaves through the rotation. The skill is reading the tool, not just having it; a 1753\/6 in the saddlebag of a rider who's never used one is a dead weight when the spoke breaks. The full truing workflow (the parts you can transfer from bench to trailside) is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378797023276,"sku":"623310","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1753_6-us.jpg?v=1642727479"},{"product_id":"set-of-torx-wrenches-on-plastic-clip-t9-t40-8-piece","title":"8-piece Short Torx Wrench Set - 220\/8TXNPH","description":"\u003cp\u003eTorx fasteners are a fixture of modern bikes. Disc-rotor bolts moved to Torx because the six-pointed star recess uses more of the available bolt-head material than hex does, which matters most on small fasteners (M5 rotor bolts at 4–6 Nm) where the bolt head doesn't have material to spare. A complete bike-shop Torx wrench set covers T10 through T40; the size range where bicycling Torx fasteners actually live.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis 8-piece set ships in a plastic clip-index, sized for fast deployment without rooting through a tool bag.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat's in the set\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEight Torx wrenches:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT9\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT10\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT15\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT25\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT27\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT30\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT40\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT25 is the workhorse for rotor bolts; it'll see the most cycles in any shop that services disc brakes. T30 shows up on some crank-arm bolts (especially Shimano Hollowtech II generations). T40 covers larger fasteners and some BB lockring work. The T9, T10, T15, T20, T27 sizes fill out the rest of the cycling Torx range; small accessory fasteners, brake-lever clamps, shifter mounts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhy dedicated Torx wrenches matter\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA Torx wrench is not interchangeable with a hex wrench of the same outer diameter; the recess geometry is fundamentally different. A hex wrench in a Torx recess will round the recess on the first cycle. A Torx wrench in a hex recess will round the wrench tip on the first cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe DIN 11537 dimensional standard specifies the geometry: the precise distance from corner-to-corner across the six-point star, the depth of the engagement surface, the radius at the corners. Wrenches that meet the standard fit; wrenches that drift off-spec strip the recess.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to step up to TX Plus\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA TX Plus profile is an enhanced Torx with additional engagement geometry inside the standard Torx recess. For high-torque applications (crank-arm bolts at 50+ Nm), the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/1-2-socket-with-tx-plus-profile-192-2txp\"\u003eTX Plus 1\/2-drive socket\u003c\/a\u003e is the better tool; additional grip area means less chance of cam-out at the top of the torque range. For routine rotor-bolt work at 4–6 Nm, standard Torx is fine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSizes: T9, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle style: short-arm L-shape\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage: plastic clip-index\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDimensional standard: DIN 11537\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstruction: chrome-vanadium steel, hardened and tempered\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Torx geometry is unforgiving of manufacturing drift: a tip that's a few hundredths off across the corner-to-corner dimension will either round the wrench or round the bolt recess. Our manufacturing process holds the dimensional tolerance through the full production run; the tip-shape consistency is what keeps the wrench in service for years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace your T25 wrench at the first sign of tip wear. A worn T25 will round every rotor bolt it touches, and the bolt loses faster than the wrench does. For the framework on which wrench style fits which job: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/hex-and-torx-wrenches-for-bike-work\"\u003eHex and Torx wrenches for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378797252652,"sku":"617077","price":35.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/8-piece-Short-Torx-Wrench-Set.jpg?v=1732186205"},{"product_id":"set-of-ball-end-hex-long-on-plastic-clip-1-5-10mm-9-piece","title":"9-piece Long Ball End Hex Wrench Set - 220\/3SLPH","description":"\u003cp\u003eBall-end hex wrenches solve the bike-shop access problem that flat-end wrenches cannot: fasteners that are partially blocked by adjacent components and can only be approached at an angle. The ball-shape on the long arm lets the wrench engage the bolt recess at up to 15 degrees off-axis, which is the difference between reaching a fastener through a tight chainstay yoke and removing the bottom bracket to access it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat’s in the set\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNine ball-end hex wrenches, sized to bike-shop work:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1.5 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2.5 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e4 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e5 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e6 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e8 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e10 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe same nine-size range as the flat-end set, in a matching plastic clip-index.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen the ball end earns its keep\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReaching a fastener that’s not square-on.\u003c\/strong\u003e A stem-bolt accessed through a handlebar bag, a brake-caliper bolt behind a chainring, a derailleur clamp bolt that’s angled to the seat tube.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStarting a fastener you can’t get straight access to.\u003c\/strong\u003e Engage at angle, run the bolt down most of the way with the ball end, then switch to the flat-end set for final torque.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorking in cluttered drawer cabinets\u003c\/strong\u003e where the L-shape itself can’t pivot into the workspace.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 15-degree tolerance is the geometric advantage. Beyond about 15° the tip starts to cam out of the recess and risks rounding the bolt head; that’s a useful limit to internalize when you’re tempted to push the angle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eThe flat-end trade-off\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBall-end tips lose some torque capacity compared to flat tips. The reason is the contact patch: a ball tip engages the bolt recess at a smaller area than a flat tip, which means more stress per unit area on both the tip and the bolt. For final-torque work and breaking stuck fasteners, switch to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/set-of-hex-wrenches-long-on-plastic-clip-1-5-10mm-9-pieces\"\u003eflat-end set\u003c\/a\u003e. Most shops own both and split the work: ball-end for initial cycle and angled access, flat-end for the final torque application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSizes: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip style: ball-end (on long arm), flat (on short arm)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaximum engagement angle: approximately 15 degrees off-axis\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle style: long-arm L-shape\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage: plastic clip-index\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDimensional standard: DIN 911\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Forming the ball end while keeping the dimensional fit inside the hex recess is the harder manufacturing problem; a poorly-formed ball end cams out of the recess earlier than 15° and rounds the bolt. The grinding process on our ball tips is calibrated for the full angular range; that’s the metallurgy choice behind the tool’s geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA ball-end wrench is the tool that turns “I need to pull this component to reach the bolt” into “I can reach it through the existing access.” Once you own a set, the angled-access workflow becomes habit. For the framework on which wrench type fits which job: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/hex-and-torx-wrenches-for-bike-work\"\u003eHex and Torx wrenches for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":34378797580332,"sku":"626771","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/220_3slph-us.png?v=1642714958"},{"product_id":"set-of-hex-wrenches-long-on-plastic-clip-1-5-10mm-9-pieces","title":"9-piece Hex Wrench Set - 220\/3LPH","description":"\u003cp\u003eA long-handle hex wrench set is the foundation of every bike shop's fastener-driver collection. The long arm gives leverage you need on stuck pedals, crank bolts, and over-torqued seatpost binders; the nine-size range from 1.5 to 10 mm covers every metric-hex fastener you'll see on a modern bicycle. This set arrives in a plastic clip-index that keeps the sizes in order; every wrench has its slot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat's in the set\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNine metric hex wrenches with flat-end tips:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1.5 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2.5 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e4 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e5 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e6 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e8 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e10 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 4 and 5 mm sizes will see the most action; the 8 and 10 mm are the pedal-and-crank-bolt sizes. The 1.5 and 2.5 mm cover the small accessory fasteners that show up around shifters, brake levers, and computer mounts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to choose long-arm over short-arm\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe long-arm form is the right default for a workshop. The advantages:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMore leverage\u003c\/strong\u003e for breaking stuck fasteners loose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMore reach\u003c\/strong\u003e for fasteners on the inside of frames, behind component clusters, or in deep recesses.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBetter lever arm for the final cycle counts\u003c\/strong\u003e when a fastener is approaching install torque.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe trade-off is that long-arm wrenches don't fit into tight clearance scenarios (a bolt sandwiched between a derailleur cage and a chainstay, for example). Those cases want a short-arm set, which is a complementary purchase rather than a replacement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFlat-end vs. ball-end\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis set uses flat-end (straight-cut) tips on both arms. Flat tips deliver maximum torque capacity because the full face of the tip engages the bolt recess; ball-end tips trade torque capacity for the ability to engage at an angle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor final-torque work and breaking stuck fasteners, flat-end is the right choice. For reaching fasteners that are partially blocked by adjacent components, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/set-of-ball-end-hex-long-on-plastic-clip-1-5-10mm-9-piece\"\u003eball-end version\u003c\/a\u003e of this set is the complementary tool. Many shops own both sets; the ball-end gets used for initial engagement, the flat-end for the final torque.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSizes: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip style: flat-end (straight-cut)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle style: long-arm L-shape\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage: plastic clip-index\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDimensional standard: DIN 911\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The premium chrome-vanadium steel is the alloy choice across the hex wrench line; the dimensional tolerances meet DIN 911 standard, which is what guarantees the tip fits the bolt recess without rocking. A tip that's a few hundredths off-spec rounds the bolt recess on the first stuck-fastener encounter; ours doesn't, because the forging and grinding processes hold the tolerance through the full production run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're building a tool kit from scratch, this is the first hex-wrench purchase. The ball-end set is the second; the short-arm set is the third (and optional). For the framework on which wrench style fits which job: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/hex-and-torx-wrenches-for-bike-work\"\u003eHex and Torx wrenches for bike work →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798366764,"sku":"626770","price":22.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/220_3lph-us.jpg?v=1642714679"},{"product_id":"cannondale-lefty-adapter-for-truing-stand","title":"Cannondale Lefty Hub Adaptor - 1689.6","description":"\u003cp\u003eCannondale's Lefty fork is a single-sided design, which means its front hub is also single-sided: no off-side flange to anchor in a standard truing stand. Putting a Lefty wheel on a regular stand and hoping to true it is a non-starter; the stand has nowhere to clamp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1689.6 closes that gap. It mounts in place of the standard hub clamp on the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-truing-stand-1689\"\u003ePro Truing Stand 1689\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/wheel-centering-stand-for-home-use-1688\"\u003ePortable Truing Stand 1688\u003c\/a\u003e and gives the Lefty hub a one-sided anchor point that holds the wheel square to the stand's calipers. Standard Lefty and Supermax hubs both fit; the adapter accepts the Lefty's axle interface directly, no further machining required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHubs: Cannondale Lefty (standard), Cannondale Supermax.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTruing stands: \u003ca href=\"\/products\/pro-truing-stand-1689\"\u003ePro Truing Stand 1689\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/wheel-centering-stand-for-home-use-1688\"\u003ePortable Truing Stand 1688\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheel range: the wheels the Lefty fork is designed for (verify against the specific Cannondale model if rebuilding from a stock wheelset).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInterface: Lefty\/Supermax-specific axle anchor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMounts in place of the standard truing stand hub clamp.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Cannondale's Lefty has been on the market in one form or another since the late 1990s, and dedicated workshops servicing Lefty-equipped bikes have needed a truing-stand answer that long. The 1689.6 is that answer. Workshops that see a Lefty regularly stock the adapter as part of the standard truing-stand kit; workshops that see a Lefty rarely keep it on the back shelf and pull it out when one comes in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLefty wheels true the same way as any other wheel once the hub is anchored. The trap is the anchor itself. A Lefty hub that isn't fully seated in the adapter will read as a wheel that's out of true (it isn't; the hub is moving), and the resulting “truing” pass will introduce real lateral and radial error into a wheel that was true before you started. Seat the hub firmly in the adapter, check that it doesn't move when the wheel is rotated, then start the truing pass. The full workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798399532,"sku":"623450","price":27.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1689.6.jpg?v=1648050208"},{"product_id":"nipple-driver-17512","title":"Nipple Driver - 1751\/2","description":"\u003cp\u003eWhen building a wheel from components, the order of operations matters. Lace the wheel, seat the nipples through the rim, thread the spokes into the nipples (a few turns each), then drive every nipple to the same starting depth before any tension goes on the build. That last step; the “same starting depth” pass; is what the 1751\/2 Nipple Driver does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tool's tip has a small nub machined into the end that engages the nipple's outer face. As you drive the nipple onto the spoke, the nub controls how far the nipple goes; the nub stops every nipple at the same depth on its spoke, giving the same thread engagement across the wheel. That's the starting point for the tensioning pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStarting with all nipples at the same depth matters because uneven starting depths translate directly to uneven final tension. If half the wheel's nipples start 1 mm deeper on their spoke threads than the other half, half the spokes will run shorter than the rest at any given tension reading; the wheel will be impossible to dish without giving up tension balance, or impossible to balance without giving up dish. The 1751\/2 closes that variability at the build's starting point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA knurled handle gives good grip during the rapid in-out motion of seating nipples across 32 spokes in succession.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNipples: slot-head internal spoke nipples (the standard).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: any standard nipple geometry; the 1751\/2 is the depth-control tool, not a wrench.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompanion tools: pair with a spoke wrench in the matching size for the tensioning pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip: depth-control nub machined into the slotted blade; 1.2 × 1.3 mm tip profile.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle: knurled for grip.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLength: 171 mm overall; 71 mm working section on a Ø 6.5 mm shaft; weight 160 g.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The Nipple Driver is one of the small workshop tools that separates a methodical wheelbuilder from an improvising one: it's an extra two minutes per wheel that costs five minutes of search-and-fix work at the tensioning pass. Workshops that do this step routinely have noticeably more consistent wheels coming off their benches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrive every nipple in a single direction around the wheel; clockwise if you're right-handed, counter-clockwise if you're left-handed. The rhythm becomes muscle memory after the first wheel, and you stop missing nipples or double-driving them. The depth-control nub does the work; your job is to apply it consistently. The full wheel-building workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does a nipple driver do in a wheel build?\u003c\/strong\u003e It handles the pre-tension pass. After lacing, you spin each nipple onto its spoke with the driver; a machined nub in the tip stops every nipple at the same depth on the spoke, so the whole wheel starts the tensioning pass from an even baseline.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow does the depth-control nub work?\u003c\/strong\u003e The nub sits in the center of the slotted tip and sets how far each nipple threads onto its spoke — drive until the nub stops the nipple, then move to the next spoke. Because the stop point is identical on every spoke, all the nipples end up at the same thread depth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich spoke nipples does the 1751\/2 fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e Standard slot-head internal spoke nipples — the slotted blade with its 1.2 × 1.3 mm tip profile drives the screwdriver slot in the nipple head. For inverted square-drive nipples, Unior makes a separate driver, the 1751\/2Q.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow big is the 1751\/2, and how is it finished?\u003c\/strong\u003e 171 mm long overall with a 71 mm working section on a 6.5 mm offset shaft, weighing 160 g. The tool is trivalent chrome plated and, like all Unior hand tools, carries a lifetime warranty.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798465068,"sku":"623297","price":22.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1751_2.jpg?v=1642727177"},{"product_id":"square-nipple-screwdriver","title":"Square Profile Nipple Driver - 1751\/2Q","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe square-profile internal spoke nipple is the workshop-friendly alternative to slot-head and Torx nipples. The square recess is shallow enough to engage cleanly even when the nipple is slightly recessed in the rim's spoke hole, and the four-corner contact distributes torque without the round-out risk that a slot-head can present under high build torque.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1751\/2Q is the dedicated driver for the 3.2 mm square-profile internal nipple; a common size on aero and deep-section rims, where the internal nipple geometry needs to clear the spoke hole and seat well into the rim's spoke bed. The driver's 80 mm shank reaches through standard double-wall and most deep-section aero rims; the 6.5 mm outer diameter of the shank clears most spoke holes without binding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA knurled handle gives the grip its working comfort, particularly when spoke tension is high and the nipple is harder to turn against the spoke's pull. Build sessions on deep-section aero wheels with square nipples are where this tool earns its space on the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNipples: 3.2 mm square-profile internal spoke nipples.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRims: standard double-wall and most deep-section aero (up to about 60 mm depth).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: aero road wheels with internal-nipple builds; most modern deep-section wheelsets that use square-profile nipples.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEngagement: 3.2 mm square tip.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShank length: 80 mm (clears most deep-section aero rims).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShank diameter: 6.5 mm outer diameter (clears most spoke holes).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle: knurled grip for workshop comfort under high spoke tension.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The square-profile nipple is one of the smarter manufacturing decisions in modern wheelbuilding; easier to engage cleanly, harder to round out, friendlier to the workshop. The 1751\/2Q is the driver that pairs with that nipple geometry; a generic flathead screwdriver will engage briefly and then strip the recess, and a slotted driver will not engage at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the nipple recess is recessed below the rim's outer face (common on internally-spoked aero wheels), the 80 mm shank length of the 1751\/2Q is the difference between a clean engagement and a half-engagement that strips the recess. If a shorter driver makes contact but won't fully seat, the engagement is partial and the round-out is one or two turns away. Reach for the 1751\/2Q or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/speed-nipple-bit\"\u003eSpeed Nipple Bit 2.5mm\u003c\/a\u003e before applying torque. The full wheel-building workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798497836,"sku":"623298","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1751_2q.jpg?v=1642730254"},{"product_id":"nipple-assembly-tool-17512t","title":"Nipple Insertion Tool - 1751\/2T","description":"\u003cp\u003eFeeding nipples into a double-wall rim is the kind of small workshop problem that doesn't sound like a problem until you're trying to do it. The nipple has to drop through the outer rim hole, locate against the inner rim's spoke hole, and stay seated long enough for the spoke to thread in from the other side. The traditional improvised method; thread the nipple onto a spare spoke a turn or two, use the spoke as a handle to position the nipple, hope it doesn't unthread; fails often enough that “lost a nipple inside the rim” is a familiar curse in the workshop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1751\/2T is the dedicated tool. Spring-loaded, it grips the nipple firmly enough to position it precisely (down through the outer rim hole, into the inner rim's spoke hole) but releases easily when the spoke threads in from the inside. The build session stops being a battle with the nipple and becomes a sequence of clean motions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a 32-spoke wheel, the 1751\/2T saves roughly the amount of time you'd spend digging a dropped nipple out of the rim's well multiplied by how often that happens (often enough). For deep-section rims (50 mm and deeper), where reaching the inner rim hole through the outer rim is genuinely difficult, the tool becomes essential rather than helpful.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplacement \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spring-for-nipple-install-tool\"\u003esprings\u003c\/a\u003e are available in packs of five for the inevitable spring-fatigue moment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNipples: standard internal spoke nipples (most sizes).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRims: any double-wall rim, including 50+ mm deep-section aero rims.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: road, gravel, MTB; anywhere a double-wall rim needs nipples seated.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpring-loaded grip mechanism with interchangeable spring (spare part 1751.1\/7T).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSized for standard double-wall rim profiles: 130 mm long, 6.5 mm shaft diameter, 33 g, trivalent chrome-plated steel.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReplacement springs available as a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spring-for-nipple-install-tool\"\u003e5-pack\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1751\/2T is one of the workshop-quality-of-life tools; not the most spectacular piece in the wheelbuilding catalog, but the one you'll appreciate the most after a build session that doesn't involve cursing at a dropped nipple. Most professional wheelbuilders own one; once you've used one, the improvised methods feel like the relic they are.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf a nipple gets dropped into the rim's well anyway, don't immediately tear the wheel down. A small magnet on a flexible handle (the kind you can find at any auto-parts counter) will fish out most steel\/zinc nipples through the spoke hole. Aluminum nipples need a slimmer fish; usually a piece of stiff wire bent into a hook. Keep both in the bench drawer; they pay for themselves the first time. The full wheel-building workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does a nipple insertion tool actually do?\u003c\/strong\u003e It holds a spoke nipple on a spring-loaded tip so you can feed it down through the outer hole of a double-wall rim and seat it in the inner spoke hole, right side up, without dropping it into the rim cavity. Once the spoke threads into the nipple from the other side, the tip lets go cleanly. It replaces the old improvisation of half-threading the nipple onto a spare spoke and hoping it stays put.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo I need one for shallow rims, or is it only for deep-section wheels?\u003c\/strong\u003e The deeper the rim, the more it earns its keep. On a 50 mm-plus aero rim the inner spoke hole is a long reach from the outer wall and a dropped nipple is genuinely hard to fish back out, so builders treat the tool as essential there. On shallow double-wall rims it is a convenience: builds go faster and you stop losing nipples, but you could manage without it. Single-wall rims do not need it at all — the nipple seats directly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich nipples does the 1751\/2T work with?\u003c\/strong\u003e Standard internal spoke nipples in the common sizes, in brass or aluminum — the spring grips the nipple body itself rather than any wrench flat, so it is not tied to one nipple wrench size. It pairs naturally with a nipple driver like the 1751\/2 for spinning the nipple up the spoke thread once it is seated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow big is the tool, and what happens when the spring wears out?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is a slim 130 mm shaft, 6.5 mm in diameter, weighing 33 g, in chrome-plated steel with a knurled grip — it lives in a shirt pocket or the top tray of a toolbox. The spring at the tip is interchangeable: Unior sells the replacement as the 1751.1\/7T, available in a five-piece set, so a tired spring costs you a minute, not a new tool.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798530604,"sku":"623299","price":18.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1751_2t.jpg?v=1642727217"},{"product_id":"spring-for-nipple-install-tool","title":"Spring for Nipple Insertion Tool - 1751.1\/7T","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe springs that keep the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/nipple-assembly-tool-17512t\"\u003eNipple Insertion Tool 1751\/2T\u003c\/a\u003e's grip mechanism working fail eventually. Workshop tools used through hundreds of build sessions accumulate metal fatigue, and the spring is the wear part. These replacement springs come as a pack of five; enough to keep the insertion tool functional through the rest of its working life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1751.1\/7T springs are dimensioned specifically for the 1751\/2T insertion tool's grip mechanism. A spring from a different tool won't engage the geometry correctly, and the grip will either be too weak (the nipple drops) or too strong (the tool won't release the nipple after the spoke is threaded in).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplacement is straightforward: pop the old spring out of the tool body, push the new one in, test the grip on a sample nipple. The tool returns to working order with a few minutes of bench work, no service appointment needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTool: \u003ca href=\"\/products\/nipple-assembly-tool-17512t\"\u003eNipple Insertion Tool 1751\/2T\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePack: 5 springs per unit.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpring: dimensioned for the 1751\/2T grip mechanism.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eQuantity: 5 per pack.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. Selling replacement springs for the 1751\/2T is the kind of accessory decision that reflects how Unior tools are designed: as service-able workshop equipment, not as disposable consumer goods. A spring is a wear part; the rest of the 1751\/2T outlasts many of those springs. Letting the customer keep the tool in service indefinitely (rather than replacing the whole insertion tool) is the workshop-friendly choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the 1751\/2T starts feeling like it's dropping nipples more often, replace the spring before the next build session. The spring degrades gradually; the symptom isn't “it broke,” it's “I'm noticing the nipple slips more than it used to.” Five springs is enough to last most workshops several years of regular use; we keep ours in the same drawer as the insertion tool itself, so the replacement is a two-minute job when the need arises. The full wheel-building workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798727212,"sku":"623300","price":11.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1751.1_7t.jpg?v=1642730054"},{"product_id":"spoke-wrench-5-and-5-5-mm-5-5-5-16362p-us","title":"Spoke Wrench, 5 x 5.5mm - 1636\/2P-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1636\/2P is the double-sided spoke wrench for the largest two nipple sizes in the standard cycling-tool range: 5.0 mm and 5.5 mm. These are sizes you'll see on heavy-duty wheels, some commercial-use builds (cargo bikes, e-bikes with high-torque drives, fat bikes with very heavy spokes), and older European builds that pre-date the modern 3.3\/3.45 mm convention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe combination-wrench form factor is the same as the other double-sided wrenches in the line (\u003ca href=\"\/products\/spoke-wrench-3-3x3-45-16332p-us\"\u003e3.3\/3.45\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/double-sided-spoke-wrench-1633-2p-copy\"\u003e4.0\/4.4\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/double-sided-spoke-wrench-1633-2p-copy-copy\"\u003e4.3\/4.4\u003c\/a\u003e), but the 5.0 and 5.5 mm sizes are large enough that the wrench body itself is bigger and the working faces have more material. Wheels at this nipple size carry more spoke load, and the wrench needs to transmit more torque without flexing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor most workshops, this isn't an everyday-use tool; most builds don't reach into the 5.0 mm or 5.5 mm range. But for the shop that services e-bikes, cargo bikes, or older heavy-duty wheels, the 1636\/2P is the wrench that fits the nipples those wheels actually use. Stock it on the back shelf and pull it out when one of those wheels comes in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNipple sizes: 5.0 mm (one side), 5.5 mm (other side).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEngagement: four-flat on both sides.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: heavy-duty wheels, cargo bikes, some e-bikes with high-torque drive systems, fat bikes, older European builds.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTwo nipple sizes on a single combination-wrench body.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePlastic-dipped handle for grip.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLarger working faces sized for the higher-torque loads of larger nipples.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 5.0\/5.5 mm wrench is the high-end-load workshop tool; the wrench that earns its keep on the wheels carrying the most weight, the highest motor torque, or the largest spokes. Workshops servicing the heavier-end of the wheel market keep one on the back shelf; for most builds the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spoke-wrench-3-3x3-45-16332p-us\"\u003e3.3\/3.45 mm\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/double-sided-spoke-wrench-1633-2p-copy\"\u003e4.0\/4.4 mm\u003c\/a\u003e variants are the everyday tools, with this one as the heavier-load specialist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e5.0 and 5.5 mm nipples in modern wheelsets are almost always on bikes with cargo or motor loads; the spoke load comes from the bike's intended use, not from the rider's weight. When servicing these wheels, the manufacturer's published tension spec is the right target rather than a feel-it-out-by-comparison number; pull up the wheelset's published spec sheet (or the wheel manufacturer's service documentation) before tensioning. The full wheel-truing workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798792748,"sku":"624953","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1636_2p-us.jpg?v=1642729929"},{"product_id":"wrench-for-fixing-flat-spoke-1632","title":"Aero\/Bladed Spoke Holder - 1632","description":"\u003cp\u003eBladed spokes (flat aero spokes used in performance road wheels) have a problem standard round spokes don't: they want to rotate during tensioning. As the nipple turns, the spoke twists with it; a phenomenon called spoke wind-up. Untwisted, the spoke will rotate back to its rest position the first time the wheel sees any load, and the wheel will go out of true within a few rides of leaving the bench. The 1632 prevents that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1632 is a flat-slot holder sized for the cross-section of bladed spokes from 1.0 mm to 2.2 mm thick. It grips the spoke at a point near the nipple and prevents it from rotating as the wrench turns the nipple. The result: pure rotation at the nipple, no twist storage in the spoke, and a wheel that holds its true after the build.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe slot range spans the bladed-spoke sizes a workshop sees most often. The 1632 covers spokes from 1.0 mm at the thin end to 2.2 mm at the thick end, which captures the working range across performance road, gravel, and most aero MTB builds. Pair the 1632 with whichever spoke wrench fits your nipples (commonly the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/spoke-wrench-3-3-16302p-us\"\u003eProfessional Spoke Wrench 3.45mm 1630\/2P\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/professional-spoke-wrench\"\u003eTx20 Professional Spoke Wrench\u003c\/a\u003e for Torx-recess nipples) and the bladed-spoke build becomes the same workflow as a standard round-spoke build.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpokes: bladed (aero, flat-profile) spokes from 1.0 mm to 2.2 mm thick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheels: any performance road wheelset built with bladed spokes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompanion tools: any spoke wrench in the size that fits the nipple.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSlot range: 1.0 mm to 2.2 mm bladed-spoke thicknesses.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: hardened steel.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompact form factor for the bench drawer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1632 is one of the small specialist tools in the wheelbuilding catalog; not used on every build, irreplaceable on the builds where bladed spokes are involved. Spoke wind-up was the unsolved problem of high-end road wheelbuilding until tools like this one made it manageable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGet the blade's flat orientation parallel to the holder's slot before clamping. A bladed spoke that's even a few degrees off-axis in the holder will mark the spoke's surface under torque: the holder is gripping the edges of the blade, not the flats, and the contact pressure concentrates instead of distributing. Look down the spoke length, line up the slot orientation against the flat, then clamp. The full wheel-truing workflow is in \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-true-a-bike-wheel\"\u003eHow to true a bike wheel →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378798858284,"sku":"617588","price":12.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1632.jpg?v=1642715682"}],"url":"https:\/\/uniorusa.com\/collections\/browse-the-tools.oembed?page=12","provider":"Unior USA","version":"1.0","type":"link"}