{"title":"Frame and Fork","description":"\u003cp\u003eIt’s not just the components on your bike that need attention, sometimes the frame does too. Derailleur hangers get bent, fork steerer tubes need to be cut, headset cups need to be pressed in, and so on. If you have to do some sort of maintenance task involving the frame, you’ll find the tools for that here.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"bearing-press","title":"Universal Bearing Press - 1721","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Universal Bearing Press 1721 is a hand-driven, threaded-shaft press kit for the cartridge bearings on a modern bike: headset cartridges, external bottom bracket cup bearings, and most hub bearings. A drift matched to the bearing's outer race diameter draws it into its bore square and fully seated, with no hammering and no side load. It's a bench tool for shops and home mechanics who'd rather press a bearing once than buy it twice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSquare seating is the whole job. Push a press-fit bearing in cocked and it binds and wears out in a season; push it through the inner race and you crush the seal and contaminate the grease before the bike leaves the stand. A bearing whose grease is contaminated at install isn't a long-term bearing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1721 is a threaded-shaft press with a handle on one end and a drift on the other. Slip the matching drift onto the press shaft and draw the bearing into its bore by turning the handle. Steady, controlled pressure throughout; no chance of glancing the drift off-axis. The force transmits through the drift to the bearing's outer race only, which keeps the seal between the two races intact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe drift assortment covers the common bearing outside-diameter range across all three. The drifts live in a laser-cut SOS foam tray inside a plastic case, so they stay paired with the press and don't migrate into the bench drawer. The size match is what “universal” means here: the right drift for the bearing, not a generic mid-size that might or might not bear on the right surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePressing is half of any bearing job. The old bearing comes out first (the Bearing Puller's side of the bench), and the bore gets cleaned and inspected before the new one goes in. The handoff between the two, hubs and headsets alike, is in our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/bearing-and-headset-service\"\u003efull service walkthrough\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: threaded-shaft press, hand-driven\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrift set: sized for the common bearing OD range across headset, BB, and hub bearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage: laser-cut SOS foam tray in a plastic case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSKU: 623301\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Press body, threaded shaft, handle, full drift assortment in the foam tray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1721's drift set is the load-bearing decision in the design; a press without the right drifts is a press that bottoms out on the wrong surface. Unior makes the drifts and the press together so the kit fits the bearings the catalog actually services.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the press resistance suddenly stiffens, the bearing is bottomed in its bore. Stop. A few more turns past bottom doesn't make the bearing more seated; it just compresses the cup or shell against whatever face is on the other side, which (for a headset) is the face you carefully prepped with the head-tube reamer and facer earlier in the same build. Press to the bottom, stop, back the press off, move on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe headset prep workflow the 1721 sits inside is in our walk-through: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378796957740,"sku":"623301","price":299.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1721.jpg?v=1642720209"},{"product_id":"threadless-nut-setter","title":"Star Nut Setter - 1682\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe star-fangled nut is the small piece of metal that anchors a threadless headset's stem cap bolt. The bolt threads into the star nut; tightening the bolt pulls upward on the steerer through the star nut and preloads the headset bearings. If the star nut sits at the wrong depth, the bolt bottoms out before preload is reached. If the star nut sits cocked, the bolt loads it unevenly and the preload never feels right. The Star Nut Setter 1682\/4 handles both the depth and the squareness in a single hammer-driven set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThread the star nut onto the setter's mandrel, drop the setter over the end of the steerer, and strike the setter's top face with a hammer. The setter's collar is sized to the steerer outside diameter; it slides down the steerer until the collar bottoms on the setter's hard stop, and that stop is set to put the star nut at the conventional 15 mm depth below the top of the steerer. The mandrel keeps the star nut square to the steerer axis through the entire travel, so the nut cannot land cocked.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the entire operation. There is no field where this tool fails, provided the nut is sized to the steerer. The setter does the rest.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1682\/4 fits 1″ and 1 1\/8″ steerer tubes. The collar swaps for the two sizes; for shops running both fitments the setter covers everything threadless in the current catalog.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor repeat-use shop benches we pair the 1682\/4 with the matching \u003ca href=\"\/products\/threadless-nut-setter-quide-1-1-18\"\u003eStar Nut Setter Guide 1682.1\/4\u003c\/a\u003e. The guide registers off the steerer's outer surface and reinforces the square-driven set when you're running a batch of new-fork installs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible steerer sizes: 1″ and 1 1\/8″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSet depth: 15 mm below the top of the steerer (typical for most stems)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: hammer-driven, square-aligned via the setter collar\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mandrel and collar. Star nuts are not included; they ship with most threadless forks, or are sold separately by Unior and others.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1682\/4 is a tool that does one operation and does it without ceremony; the mandrel-and-collar geometry is the same as the original star-fangled nut driver pattern that dates back decades, refined to Unior's forging-and-machining standards. There is nothing fancy about the tool, and that is the point: it is on the bench because every threadless fork install ends with this step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA star nut driven crooked won't release evenly when the stem cap bolt is tightened. The rider will feel it as a stem that won't quite preload the headset correctly. They'll tighten the bolt to where the headset \u003cem\u003eshould\u003c\/em\u003e be preloaded, and the headset will still rock under braking. If you find yourself chasing headset preload on a recent build and the cup pressing was clean and the race was set square, suspect the star nut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe star-nut set is the last operation in the head-tube-up frame-prep chain: head-tube facing, crown-race pull and set, headset bearing press, then star nut. The full chain is documented in our walk-through: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378799972396,"sku":"616292","price":25.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1682_4.jpg?v=1642730345"},{"product_id":"threadless-nut-setter-quide-1-1-18","title":"Star Nut Setter Guide - 1682.1\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eA star nut driven a degree or two off-axis to the steerer is the kind of error that doesn't show until later. The bolt may still thread, the stem may still tighten, but the headset preload gets a small lateral component the first time it's set, and that component shows up months later as bearing wear that should have happened in a year. The 1682.1\/4 guide is the small piece that prevents that problem at the install step. It centers the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/threadless-nut-setter\"\u003eStar Nut Setter 1682\/4\u003c\/a\u003e over the steerer so the nut goes in true on the first hit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1682.1\/4 is a simple steel tube sized to the inner diameter of a 1″ or 1 1\/8″ steerer, which is the diameter range that covers the vast majority of road, mountain, and gravel forks in current production. It slides into the top of the steerer; the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/threadless-nut-setter\"\u003eStar Nut Setter 1682\/4\u003c\/a\u003e then registers against the guide rather than against the steerer wall directly. The result is a star nut that enters the steerer perpendicular to the steerer axis, not tilted off by the small clearance between setter and steerer wall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithout the guide, mechanics rely on visual alignment and hammer technique to keep the star nut square. With the guide, the geometry is mechanical; the setter cannot go in tilted because the guide constrains it to vertical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1″ steerers (older road forks, some retro builds)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 1\/8″ steerers (the dominant current spec for road, gravel, MTB, hybrid)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePairs with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/threadless-nut-setter\"\u003eStar Nut Setter 1682\/4\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBore range: 1″ and 1 1\/8″ steerers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: alignment sleeve for star nut installs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One 1682.1\/4 guide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The guide is one of those small precision pieces whose value isn't in what it does on a single install, but in what it prevents across hundreds of installs over a tool's working life. Building it as a precision-sized sleeve rather than a generic tube is what makes it actually work; a loose guide doesn't constrain the setter enough to prevent the tilt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide takes the most common star-nut-install error out of the workflow, which is the small angular tilt that happens when the setter sits in the steerer with no centering reference. Slide the guide into the steerer first, set the star nut on top of the guide with the setter mounted, and drive the nut down. The first 5 mm of setter travel is where the nut catches the steerer walls; that's the part the guide protects.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA useful diagnostic for whether a star nut went in straight: after the install, look down the steerer at the nut from above. The nut's outer ring should be visible as a clean circle, equidistant from the steerer wall at all points. A nut that's tilted will show an oval; that's the cue to extract and reinstall (or accept that the headset will run with a small preload bias).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe star nut is the last mechanical move before the stem cap bolt has something to thread into. Get it square and the headset preload works the way the manufacturer intended; tilt it and the bias rides with the frame for the life of the headset. The full sequence (head-tube prep first, then the star nut going in straight on top of it) is covered in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378800136236,"sku":"619618","price":18.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1682.1_4.jpg?v=1642730379"},{"product_id":"frame-and-fork-end-alignment-gauge-tool","title":"Dropout Alignment Gauges - 1692\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe dropouts are the parts of the frame and fork that the wheel axles seat against. They have to be parallel to each other, perpendicular to the bike's centerline, and free of any twist or splay that would force the wheel to sit cocked in the frame. Misaligned dropouts cause every problem a misaligned wheel causes: poor tracking, brake rub that won't dial out, shifting that goes sloppy as the chain works against an off-axis cassette, and excessive wear at the hub bearings as the cones load unevenly. The Dropout Alignment Gauges 1692\/4 are the bench tools that catch the problem and (within reason) correct it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tools do\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1692\/4 is a paired set of gauges that install into both the rear-frame dropouts and the front-fork dropouts. Each gauge threads or clamps into the dropout the same way an axle would, and presents a precisely-machined flat face. Bring the two faces together and the gap between them shows you exactly how the dropouts relate: parallel and square if the faces meet flush, splayed or twisted if they don't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor minor misalignment on steel frames, the gauges themselves provide the leverage to correct the bend. Apply pressure to the gauge handles in the direction the dropout needs to move; the gauge's seat distributes the bend evenly along the dropout's length. Re-measure after correction; iterate if needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere you can use them, where you can't\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSteel frames respond well to dropout correction; the material yields cleanly under controlled bending force, and the correction holds. Aluminum is riskier (consult the frame maker; cold-set bending can stress the alloy past its yield point). Carbon doesn't bend at all; carbon dropouts break, and a misaligned carbon dropout means a frame return, not a correction. Titanium responds to bending but its elastic recovery is high enough that correction usually wants specialist work. The 1692\/4 are diagnostic tools first, correction tools second; the diagnostic value applies to every frame material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: paired gauges, installed into front and rear dropouts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatibility: most modern frame and fork dropouts (verify with your frame for thru-axle vs. QR fitments)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFrame material correction: steel yes, aluminum sometimes, carbon no, titanium consult manufacturer\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePairs with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/hanger-genie\"\u003eHanger Genie 1602\/2\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/hanger-genie-2-0-hanger-alignment-tool\"\u003eHanger Genie 2.0\u003c\/a\u003e for full rear-end-true workflow\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Paired dropout alignment gauges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1692\/4 is the tool the workshop reaches for when a bike's shift quality, brake feel, or tracking can't be explained by the obvious adjustments. The pairing with the Hanger Genie is the canonical Unior workshop completeness: dropouts first, hanger second, drivetrain third. The 1692\/4 lives on the bench between those steps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRun the dropout gauges on every shop-built wheel before you ship a wheelbuild. A wheel that's perfect in the truing stand and then gets installed in a frame with splayed dropouts arrives at the customer behaving as if the wheel itself was the problem. The gauge takes five minutes; the recovery from a wrong-diagnosis warranty claim takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're chasing the why behind a bent hanger that keeps coming back bent, the gauges are also where to start; sometimes the hanger isn't the issue, the dropout the hanger threads into is. The full diagnostic-and-correction context for rear-end alignment is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-save-a-bent-mech-hanger\"\u003eHow to save a bent mech hanger →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378801381420,"sku":"618412","price":101.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Dropout-Alignment-Gauges.jpg?v=1732111612"},{"product_id":"rear-triangle-spreader-1678-2bi-us","title":"Rear Triangle Spreader - 1678\/2BI-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eA flat tire on a modern road bike is a five-minute job. A flat tire on a commuter with internally-geared hubs, fenders, a chain guard, and a kickstand is what your day becomes when one rolls through the door. The wheel won't come out of the frame without removing half the bike, the shop charges a flat-rate tube replacement, and the labor turns the job into a money-loser before the tire is even pulled. The Rear Triangle Spreader 1678\/2BI-US keeps the five-minute job a five-minute job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDisconnect the non-drive axle nut on the hub. Slip the spreader between the hub flange and the inside of the rear chainstay or seatstay. Turn the spreader's handle to extend the body, which spreads the frame laterally away from the axle on the non-drive side. Within a few rotations of the handle, the rear triangle has enough gap to slip the tire and tube off the rim without removing the wheel from the frame at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tool works on most internal-hub builds, fender-and-rack-equipped commuters, and any frame configuration that traditionally requires dismantling accessories to remove the wheel. The hub stays in the frame, the chain stays on the cog, the fenders and accessories stay attached. The wheel rotates in place while you work the tire off and back on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to reach for it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1678\/2BI-US is a shop-productivity tool more than a riding-mechanic tool. It pays off on internally-geared hubs (Shimano Alfine, Rohloff, Nexus) where chainline reset is non-trivial, commuters with fenders or racks bolted to the dropouts, step-through frames where the chainstay yoke crowds the wheel exit, chain-guard bikes (Dutch-style city, e-cargo), and any time the labor-cost of removing the wheel exceeds the cost of spreading the frame.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe spreader fits standard road and MTB rear ends with QR or thru-axle hubs. The tool is designed for steel and aluminum rear triangles, which respond predictably to controlled lateral spread within their elastic range. For carbon frames, consult the frame manufacturer before applying any lateral force; most carbon manufacturers explicitly disclaim aftermarket spreading, and we don't recommend using the 1678\/2BI-US on a carbon rear end without that conversation first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: handle-driven mechanical spread on the non-drive side\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatibility: most steel and aluminum QR or thru-axle rear ends; carbon requires frame-maker consultation first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/set-of-two-tyre-levers-red-1657red\"\u003eglass-fiber-reinforced tire levers 1657\u003c\/a\u003e for the tire-off step that follows\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spreader body, drive handle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1678\/2BI-US is a shop tool through and through; most home mechanics never need it, and most pro shops pay for the tool on the first hard commuter flat that comes through the door. The value is measured in hours of shop throughput, not features per ounce.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpread the frame just enough to clear the tire. More spread is not better; the spreader works because lateral force on a steel or aluminum rear end is well within the frame's elastic range, but the elastic range has limits. Open the gap to fit the tire bead through and stop there. Once the tire is off, drop the spread back, do the patch or tube swap, and re-spread for the reinstall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rear Triangle Spreader pairs naturally with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-and-fork-end-alignment-gauge-tool\"\u003eDropout Alignment Gauges 1692\/4\u003c\/a\u003e and the Hanger Genie family. The three are the rear-end-service trio for shops working on bikes more complex than racing road bikes. The trio's place in the rear-end workflow is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-save-a-bent-mech-hanger\"\u003eHow to save a bent mech hanger →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378802331692,"sku":"624944","price":139.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1678_2bi-us.jpg?v=1642728347"},{"product_id":"headtube-reamer-and-facer-1694","title":"Headtube Reamer and Facer - 1694","description":"\u003cp\u003eMost factory frames arrive with the head tube already faced and reamed; most builds never need this tool. The Headtube Reamer and Facer 1694 is the one we reach for when a frame doesn't fit that profile. A steel build coming back from powder coat. A second-hand frame whose history we don't know. A fresh-from-the-painter frame with the upper cup face still hiding under a paint film. A new aluminum build where the headset feels tight on press-in or rocks after install. In each case the head tube needs work before the headset goes in, and the 1694 does both operations the head tube needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1694 reams the head tube bore and faces both ends from a single handle. The reamer trims the inside diameter to spec; the facer trims the upper and lower head tube ends square to that bore. The order matters: ream first, face second. The reamer establishes the reference bore, and the facer registers off that bore to set the face perpendicular. Facing before reaming gets you a perpendicular face to whatever the bore was, which may not be what you want.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tool is part of Unior's modular frame-prep series. The 1694 reamer\/facer cutters share a handle with the modular system's bottom-bracket facing tool, the chase taps, and the other frame-prep tools we sell. A complete frame-prep kit takes up about a third of the bench space a non-modular toolkit would; useful in a small shop, useful in a travel-case kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1694 is sized for 1 1\/8″ head tubes. 1″ head tubes (vintage road, BMX, some classic mountain) are a different fitment and the 1694 doesn't cover them. Tapered head tubes are reamed and faced at the 1 1\/8″ upper end; the lower (1 1\/2″) end uses a separate cup-bore tool, which is a different operation than face-and-ream.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible head tube: 1 1\/8″ only\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCutter: hardened tool steel reamer + facer cutters\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHandle: shared across Unior's modular frame-prep series\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Reamer cutter, facer cutter, modular handle. Cup-side cutters (1694.1) and the modular-system handle (1695.1\/4BI) are sold separately if you need to replace a cutter or expand the kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1694's reamer body is hardened tool steel because the head tube face has to survive thousands of cuts across a tool's working life without the cutting edge dulling. A reamer that goes soft in five years isn't a tool, it's a consumable; the 1694 is built to be the former.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you commit to facing a frame, run the dust-cap test. Drop the upper cup in dry, set the dust cap on top, and look at the gap. A gap that closes evenly all the way around means the cup is sitting square and the face is fine. A gap that closes on one side and stays open on the other means the head tube face isn't square and the 1694 has work to do. A factory-faced frame doesn't get better from a second pass; it just gets shorter, and the head tube has a finite stack height. Face only when the test says you need to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dust-cap test, the ream-then-face order, and how the 1694 fits into a full frame-prep workflow are all in our walk-through: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378806919212,"sku":"626480","price":399.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1694-us.jpg?v=1642725305"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699","title":"Bottom Bracket Facing Tool - 1699","description":"\u003cp\u003eA bottom bracket shell faces two ways at once. The drive-side face and the non-drive-side face have to be parallel to each other, perpendicular to the shell's bore, and clean enough to clamp a cup against without rocking. A factory shell that doesn't meet those conditions sends every drop of crank force through a cup that's sitting slightly cocked, and the bearings wear unevenly from the first ride. The Bottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699 is the bench tool that brings the faces back to parallel-and-square; the same tool that the Tech Tips walk-through demonstrates step by step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1699 mounts to the shell through the bore and presents a rotating cutter to each face. The cutter trims a fine pass off the shell metal until the face is square to the bore the tool itself registers on. Both faces get cut in the same setup, which is what makes them parallel; the tool's geometry is the reference, and the parallelism comes from the tool, not from the original shell condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1699 is part of Unior's modular frame-prep series. It shares its handle with the Head Tube Reamer and Facer 1694, the BB taps (1697 BSA, 1698 Italian, T47), and the other modular frame-prep tools. A workshop running the full series carries one handle and a kit of cutters and guides, not a separate handle per operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1699 is the shell-side facing tool. Pair it with the right guide for the BB shell standard:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBSA (1.37″ × 24 TPI): \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bsa-bottom-bracket-facing-guide-1699-4bsa\"\u003eBSA Bottom Bracket Facing Guide 1699\/4BSA\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eItalian threaded (36 × 24): \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-guide-copy\"\u003eItalian Bottom Bracket Facing Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCutter blade (replacement \/ spare): \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-cutter\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Cutter 1699.1\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tool ships with the BSA guide included, which covers the most common threaded shell in the current Unior USA catalog. Italian-threaded shells need the Italian guide; T47 requires the matching T47 tap set first, then the facing tool with a T47 guide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: dual-face facing, hand-driven via modular handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCutter: hardened tool steel, replaceable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eModular series: shares the 1695.1\/4BI handle with the 1694, 1697, 1698, and T47 taps\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Facing tool body, BSA facing guide, cutter blade. Italian guide and T47 guide sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1699's cutter is hardened tool steel because the cut surface itself is the spec the bearings live with; a soft cutter that chatters across the face leaves a stepped surface, and a stepped surface is worse than no facing at all. The 1699 is built to leave a clean ring around both faces, first cut and last.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApply cutting fluid generously. Light, steady torque on the handle. Let the tool cut. Forcing the facer produces chatter marks; rushing it leaves a stepped surface where half the face is cut and the other half is still painted or anodized. Watch the chip pattern: continuous curls means the cut is happening; powdered chips means the tool is dragging without cutting and you need more pressure on the handle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe full BSA-shell prep walk-through (chasing threads first, then facing, with the right reference forces and the chip-pattern diagnostic) is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378807214124,"sku":"626477","price":249.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1699-us.jpg?v=1642720800"},{"product_id":"handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi","title":"Handle for Modular Frame Prep Tools - 1695.1\/4BI","description":"\u003cp\u003eFrame prep is a small set of operations that each need a different cutter or guide on the same drive: chasing BB threads, facing the BB shell, reaming and facing a head tube, T47 thread chasing, and a few related jobs. The 1695.1\/4BI handle is the common drive end of that family. Rather than shipping each tool with its own dedicated bar, Unior built the frame-prep series around a single handle pattern; you buy the cutters and guides you need, and one or two handles serve the whole bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1695.1\/4BI is the T-bar handle that mates with Unior's modular frame-prep cutters and tap holders. It carries the torque the mechanic puts in at the bench through a square-drive coupling to whichever frame-prep tool is currently mounted. Bottom-bracket tapping needs two of these (one each side of the shell, working simultaneously); head-tube reaming, BB facing, and T47 chasing each need one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrives every modular tool in the frame-prep family:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-tap-1698-copy\"\u003eBSA Bottom Bracket Tap 1697\u003c\/a\u003e and the BSA \/ Italian tap holders\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"\/products\/taps-t47\"\u003eTaps T47\u003c\/a\u003e (M47 × 1.0 thread)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/products\/headtube-reamer-and-facer-1694\"\u003eHead Tube Reamer and Facer 1694\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA shop that owns one full frame-prep operation already owns the handle; for the second operation, buying the cutter \/ guide \/ tap holder alone is enough. The handle is the part you only need once or twice on the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eType: modular handle with square-drive coupling\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible tools: 1694, 1697, 1698, 1699, Taps T47, and other modular frame-prep cutters and holders\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The modular handle is the design decision that connects the whole frame-prep series; the same handle on the BB facer, the head-tube reamer, the T47 taps, and the BSA \/ Italian tap holders is what makes a frame-prep bench compact instead of cluttered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBB tapping needs two handles working at once: one driving the drive-side (left-hand thread) holder and one driving the non-drive-side (right-hand thread) holder, both feeding into the shell simultaneously so the taps stay parallel and the thread cuts cleanly. A shop that has one handle and one tap holder can still face a BB shell or chase T47 threads; for BSA \/ Italian tap chasing on a paint-fresh frame, a second handle pays for itself the first time you reach for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe walk-through of the full BB-prep sequence (tap holders driving simultaneously, then the facer, with the right feed control) is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378807410732,"sku":"626465","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1695.1_4bi-us.jpg?v=1648784325"},{"product_id":"frame-for-1699-bottom-bracket-facer-1699-2-4","title":"Frame for 1699 Bottom Bracket Facer - 1699.2\/4","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1699 BB facing tool isn't a single rigid bar; it's a four-piece assembly that reaches through the shell to pull both faces square to the bore. The 1699.2\/4 frame is the spine that does the reaching. It's the threaded rod that runs through the BB shell, carrying the sprung pilot on one end and the cutter \/ handle stack on the other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1699.2\/4 frame is the central drawbar of the 1699 BB facing system. One end carries a sprung pilot that registers against the inside of the shell; the other end accepts the cutter and the modular handle. As the mechanic turns the handle, the cutter rotates against the outer shell face while the frame holds the assembly coaxial to the bore. The spring on the pilot end keeps the geometry under load without bottoming, which is what lets both faces get cut in the same setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA workshop that already owns a 1695.1\/4BI handle from another modular frame-prep tool (head-tube reamer, BB taps, T47 taps) can build the full 1699 BB facing system around this frame plus the right cutter and guide. The frame is the piece that doesn't change between BSA and Italian thread variants; the guides do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePairs with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-cutter\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Cutter 1699.1\u003c\/a\u003e (cutting edge)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAccepts either the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bsa-bottom-bracket-facing-guide-1699-4bsa\"\u003eBSA Facing Guide 1699\/4BSA\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-guide-copy\"\u003eItalian Facing Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrives through the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi\"\u003emodular frame-prep handle 1695.1\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eType: threaded drawbar with sprung pilot\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: holds the BB facing assembly coaxial to the shell bore\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrive: square-drive interface to 1695.1\/4BI modular handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1699.2\/4 frame only. Cutter, guide, handle, and the small wrench for the guide sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The frame is the part that the BB facing geometry hangs on; if the drawbar flexes or the spring sags, the cutter walks off the bore-square reference and the faces come out unsquare. Building the frame to hold that geometry under repeated cutting load is the unglamorous engineering that makes the rest of the assembly work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the frame threads through a freshly-chased shell, it should slide cleanly with no binding. A binding frame means the thread chase wasn't complete, or there's swarf left in the shell from the previous step; pulling the frame back out and chasing the shell once more is faster than fighting the facing operation against a dirty bore.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe sprung pilot on the inside-shell end is a serviceable assembly. If the spring tension drops over years of use (rare, but it happens on a busy production bench), the cutter starts feeding inconsistently and the faces come out stepped. The fix is a frame replacement, not a field repair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe complete BB-prep walk-through (chasing threads first, then facing with the frame \/ cutter \/ guide stack) is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378807476268,"sku":"626468","price":68.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Frame-for-1699-Bottom-Bracket-Facer.jpg?v=1732111448"},{"product_id":"bsa-bottom-bracket-tap-holder-1697-2-4","title":"Bottom Bracket Tap Holder BSA","description":"\u003cp\u003eInside the 1697 BSA tap system, three pieces share the load: the cutting edge that does the thread chasing, the handle the mechanic drives, and the holder that bridges the two. The 1697.2\/4 BSA tap holder is that bridge piece. It accepts the BSA tap cutters at one end and the modular handle at the other, presenting the cutter to the shell at the correct angle and torque transmission for clean thread chasing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1697.2\/4 holds a BSA tap cutter (right-hand for non-drive, left-hand for drive) and couples it to the modular handle. A complete BSA chasing operation needs two of these (one each side of the shell) plus two handles, two cutters, and the guide frame; the holder is the piece that translates handle torque into thread-cutting force without flexing or wandering off the cutter's coaxial line through the shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHolds \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-tap-cutters-1697-1\"\u003eBSA-pitch tap cutters 1697.1\u003c\/a\u003e (1.37″ × 24 TPI, paired right-hand \/ left-hand)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCouples to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi\"\u003emodular frame-prep handle 1695.1\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePart of the same modular family as the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/taps-t47\"\u003eTaps T47\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePattern: BSA (paired use, one holder per side of the shell)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarries: 1697.1 BSA tap cutter (sold separately as a pair)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrive: square-drive interface to 1695.1\/4BI modular handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One BSA tap holder. BSA cutters and handle sold separately; a complete chasing operation requires two of each.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The holder is a piece that earns its place by what it doesn't do; it doesn't flex under cutting load, doesn't introduce angular play between handle and cutter, doesn't drift off coaxial during the chase. A holder that does any of those things produces threads that look right but bind the cup at install. The 1697.2\/4 is built for the negative spec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo holders running simultaneously is the BSA chasing setup, and the geometry only works if both holders are mounted with the cutter stamps reading correctly (L on drive side, R on non-drive side). Cross-mount one and the taps fight each other through the shell. Check the stamp orientation before threading the cutters into the holders, not after the handles are on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA holder showing visible play around the cutter retention (cutter rocking in the holder under finger pressure) is a holder that needs replacement; that play translates directly into off-axis cutter pressure and a galled shell. Inspect the holder-to-cutter fit before each BB-prep session on a busy bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe BSA-shell walk-through covers the dual-holder simultaneous-drive sequence and how to read the chip pattern as the cut progresses: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"BSA","offer_id":34378807509036,"sku":"626467","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1697.2_4.jpg?v=1642721523"},{"product_id":"bsa-bottom-bracket-facing-guide-1699-4bsa","title":"Bottom Bracket Facing Guide BSA","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1699 BB facing tool needs a reference for its cutting axis. The shell's own threads are that reference, but only when the facing tool has something to grip the threads with. The 1699\/4BSA facing guide is that grip: a paired set of threaded inserts (one for the drive side, one for the non-drive side) that screw into a chased BSA shell and present a flat, coaxial mounting surface for the 1699's frame.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1699\/4BSA is a matched pair of BSA-pitch (1.37″ × 24 TPI) threaded inserts, stamped BSA-L and BSA-R. They thread into the BSA shell with the thread direction matching the corresponding side: BSA-L into the drive side (left-hand thread), BSA-R into the non-drive side (right-hand thread). Once both are seated in the shell, the 1699 facing frame passes through them, and the cutter rides coaxial to the bore as it cuts each face.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide is the piece that translates the shell's internal thread geometry into an external mounting reference for the cutter. Without it, the cutter has no clean coaxial line to follow; with it, the cutter's path is determined by the shell threads themselves, which is the geometric reference the bearings will eventually live on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBSA-threaded BB shells (1.37″ × 24 TPI)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMates with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-for-1699-bottom-bracket-facer-1699-2-4\"\u003eFrame for 1699 Bottom Bracket Facer 1699.2\/4\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePart of a complete \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e setup\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: 1.37″ × 24 TPI (BSA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair: BSA-L (drive-side, left-hand thread) and BSA-R (non-drive-side, right-hand thread)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: threaded reference inserts for the 1699 BB facing tool\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTightening: use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/1699-5-4p-wrench-for-bottom-bracket-facing-tool-guide-bsa-ita\"\u003e1699.5\/4P facing-guide wrench\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One BSA-L guide insert, one BSA-R guide insert.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The guide is the geometric pivot of the BB facing operation; it takes the shell's own thread spec and converts it into the cutter's setup reference. Building the guide to that geometric responsibility means tight thread tolerances and flat outer faces that mate without rocking. The 1699\/4BSA's working surfaces are the kind of small precision detail that decides whether the facing operation produces a square face or a slightly cocked one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChase the threads before mounting the guide. The guide threads in by hand; if it doesn't seat by hand the threads aren't clean, and forcing the guide will damage either the guide or the shell. Run the BSA taps through first, blow the shell out, and then thread the guide in by hand until it bottoms against the shell face. Tighten with the 1699.5\/4P guide wrench; finger-tight isn't enough to hold the guide square through a cutting operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth guides should bottom against the same plane on the shell faces. If one side leaves a visible gap and the other doesn't, check whether the shell faces are out-of-parallel by enough that the facing operation will produce uneven cuts on each side; sometimes the answer is to start the facing pass and let the cutter equalize them, and sometimes the answer is to investigate why one face is so much shorter than the other before cutting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe BSA-shell prep walk-through covers the chase-then-mount-guide-then-face sequence in order: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"BSA","offer_id":34378807607340,"sku":"626470","price":37.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Italian","offer_id":34378807640108,"sku":"626469","price":37.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1699.4bsa.jpg?v=1642720678"},{"product_id":"head-tube-reaming-and-facing-cutters-1694-1","title":"Head Tube Reaming and Facing Cutter - 1694.1","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1694 head tube reamer and facer does two operations in one pass: it reams the head tube bore to the headset cup diameter, and it faces the head tube ends square to that bore. Both operations happen on the cutter; the cutter is the single working face the headset cups will eventually press onto. The 1694.1 is the spare \/ replacement cutter, ordered when the original has worn through enough headset preps to need refreshing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1694.1 is a hardened-steel cutter head sized to 1 1\/8″ head tubes, machined with multiple cutting teeth around a bore-and-face geometry. Mounted on the 1694 reaming-and-facing tool body, the cutter sweeps the inner bore while simultaneously cutting the outer face square to that bore. The two surfaces come out machined to the same reference; that's the load-bearing geometric guarantee the headset bearings will live on for the life of the frame.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA workshop running the 1694 already owns this cutter as part of the bundle. The 1694.1 is the order placed when a busy production bench has chewed through the original cutter, when the cutter edge has rounded to where it produces chatter rather than clean cuts, or when a small set of build-side cutters lets a mechanic keep working while one set goes out for resharpening (depending on workshop policy).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 1\/8″ head tube bores\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMounts on the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/headtube-reamer-and-facer-1694\"\u003eHeadtube Reamer and Facer 1694\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBore range: 1 1\/8″ head tubes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: hardened steel, multiple cutting teeth\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: combined ream-and-face cutter head for the 1694\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One 1694.1 cutter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1694.1 cuts two surfaces with one set of teeth, which is the design move that makes the headset bearing seats come out coplanar. Two separate operations (separate bore cutter, separate face cutter) would risk small misalignment between bore and face; a single combined cutter eliminates the risk by reading the same setup for both cuts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCarbon head tubes change the rules. Carbon frames don't get faced; the layup is the reference surface, and cutting it removes structural material. The reaming pass, on the other hand, is sometimes the right call on a carbon frame: many carbon head tubes use bonded aluminum cups that can ship slightly out of round, and the 1694 with the 1694.1 cutter is the tool that brings the cup bore back to round. Steel and aluminum head tubes get the full ream-and-face treatment; carbon frames get reamed at the aluminum cups only, never faced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChatter marks are the diagnostic that gets the 1694.1 swapped out. A sharp cutter leaves both the bore and the outer face smooth on the first pass; when chatter shows up on a head tube job that ran clean a month ago, the cutter has lost its working edge. Resharpening isn't a workshop operation for cutters at this geometry, so the chatter cue means order a replacement. Chip-shape on the swarf is the earlier signal that the same wear is coming, but chatter is the one that ends the cutter's working life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInside the broader build, the cutter's role is the bridge from a raw frame to a frame the headset can press into; the full sequence (when to ream, when to face, what to do with carbon, and what comes after) is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378807672876,"sku":"617824","price":223.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1694.1.jpg?v=1648784602"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-facing-cutter","title":"Bottom Bracket Facing Cutter - 1699.1","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1699.1 BB facing cutter is the working head of the 1699 facing tool. The cutter is what trims the face of the BB shell back to square; the frame, guide, and handle exist to hold this piece coaxial and feed it forward in a controlled way. Like any cutting tool, the 1699.1 is serviceable, replaceable, and the part of the assembly most likely to need refreshing first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1699.1 is a hardened tool-steel rotating cutter that mounts onto the 1699 facing tool frame and cuts a fine pass off each outer face of the BB shell. The cut is light by design; the goal is to bring the face flat, parallel to its opposite, and perpendicular to the bore, not to remove visible material. A correctly-set 1699 will produce a uniform metal ring around each face on the first pass, with the original anodize or paint visible nowhere on the cut surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA workshop running the 1699 system already owns this cutter as part of the bundle. The 1699.1 is the spare \/ replacement, ordered when the cutter starts producing chatter marks on the face, when the edge has worn enough that the cut is uneven, or when a kit comes back from a heavy production season and a cutter swap is the obvious refresh.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMounts on the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-for-1699-bottom-bracket-facer-1699-2-4\"\u003eFrame for 1699 Bottom Bracket Facer 1699.2\/4\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePart of the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e bundle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with both BSA and Italian facing operations (the cutter geometry is shell-standard agnostic; the guide is the piece that changes)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: hardened tool steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: shell-face cutting head for the 1699 BB facing tool\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrive: receives torque from the 1699.2\/4 frame via the modular handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One 1699.1 facing cutter. Frame, guide, handle sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The cutter's edge is the surface that determines what every BB cup the shell will ever accept clamps against. A soft cutter that rounds off in service produces stepped faces; a hardened cutter holding its edge produces faces that bearings spin true on. The 1699.1 is built to the edge spec, which is the only spec the next ten thousand crank revolutions care about.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCutter retirement is something to do on a calendar, not on a feel. Most shops can run a 1699.1 through a season of normal use before the edge needs swapping; on a production bench facing fresh shells daily, the cycle is shorter. The clear retirement signal is the chip pattern: as long as the cutter produces continuous metal curls, the edge is sharp; when chips break into shorter pieces under the same feed pressure, the edge is rounding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCutting fluid extends cutter life dramatically. A dry cutter on an aluminum shell can blunt in a single facing operation; the same cutter with cutting oil applied before each pass holds its edge for hundreds of shells. Treat the fluid as part of the operation, not a nice-to-have.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe chip-pattern diagnostic and feed-control discipline that gets the most out of a 1699.1 are covered in the BB-shell pillar: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378808164396,"sku":"617592","price":146.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1699.1.jpg?v=1642720605"},{"product_id":"hanger-genie","title":"Hanger Genie - 1602\/2","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Hanger Genie 1602\/2 is the original. We made it because no other hanger alignment tool we tried felt right for the modern drivetrains we service. 11-speed and 12-speed cassettes punish hanger drift in ways a 7-speed never did, and the older generation of hanger gauges weren't designed for that level of precision. The 1602\/2 was the answer; the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/hanger-genie-2-0-hanger-alignment-tool\"\u003eHanger Genie 2.0\u003c\/a\u003e is its refined sibling, and both live in the catalog for shops that want their own preference.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThread the 1602\/2 into the rear derailleur hanger threads. The tool's arm extends out to the wheel rim and presents a measurement reference at four positions around the wheel: typically 12 o'clock, 3, 6, and 9. The hanger is true when all four positions read the same distance to the rim; it's bent when one or more positions read shorter or longer. Bend the hanger by hand against the leverage the tool provides until the readings converge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1602\/2 is intentionally simple. No sealed bearings, no welded heads, no lockable gauge. The arm is the reference, your hand is the bending force, and the readings are the feedback loop. That simplicity is the design choice; the tool has no parts that can wear out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1602\/2 fits bikes with wheel sizes from 20″ through 29+″. Road, gravel, MTB, kids' bikes, fat bikes; the arm extends or retracts to land on the rim at any of those sizes. Nearly any bike you put it on, the tool fits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible wheel sizes: 20″ through 29+″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: thread-in axle, manual bend correction via tool leverage\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStorage: laser-cut foam carrying tray, sized to fit the bottom of the Unior Pro Kit tool case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Tool body with extending arm, laser-cut foam carrying tray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1602\/2 is the simpler of our two hanger alignment tools; it earns its place on the bench by being the one we reach for when we want to confirm a hanger's straight without setting up the 2.0's measurement workflow. The laser-cut foam tray integrates with our Pro Kit case so the tool stores neatly inside a complete shop kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf a customer says shifting is sloppy on the cassette and the cable adjust hasn't fixed it, suspect the hanger before suspect the derailleur. A bent hanger doesn't always look bent; the drive-side fall often produces a sub-millimeter deflection that's invisible to the eye but obvious to the cassette. Run the gauge before swapping a derailleur. The 1602\/2 takes about three minutes to set up and confirm or rule out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe full diagnostic (what a bent hanger looks like in the shift behavior, why it matters more on 11+ speed, and where Hanger Genie work fits) is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-save-a-bent-mech-hanger\"\u003eHow to save a bent mech hanger →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34378811506732,"sku":"628355","price":117.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Hanger-Genie.jpg?v=1732111272"},{"product_id":"frame-taps-1695","title":"Frame Taps M3","description":"\u003cp\u003eM3 threads are easy to ignore until one fails. On older horizontal-dropout frames, M3×0.5 holds the axle-positioning bolts that set the rear-wheel chainline. On a working frame, an M3 thread also shows up on cable guides, certain disc-brake adapter mounting holes, and the small hardware on internal-routing exit ports. A stripped M3 thread on any of these stops the job until the thread is restored.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1695 Frame Tap M3 chases an existing M3×0.5 thread; it doesn't cut a new one. The cutting edges follow the pitch and major-diameter of the existing thread and remove only the paint, corrosion, or distortion that's blocking it. The result is a thread that takes a fresh bolt cleanly without losing the thread's geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to chase an M3 thread\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter paint overspray at the factory has filled the thread\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter crash damage has bent or distorted the thread profile\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter corrosion or seized-bolt residue has built up in the thread\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBefore installing new hardware in a frame that's been in storage\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the thread is genuinely stripped (the bolt has cut new threads into the surrounding metal), chasing won't fix it. The fix there is a thread insert or a Helicoil; different repair, different tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUse with the magnetic handle\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1695 Frame Tap pairs with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003emagnetic Handle for Pedal Taps 1695\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e for the leverage to cut cleanly without cross-threading. The magnetic-collet engagement holds the tap square to the work; a standard tap handle works too but the magnetic version stays put under hand-pressure on small-pitch threads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eM3×0.5 chase tap\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHardened tool-steel cutting edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSquare-shank engagement, compatible with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003e1695\/4BI Handle for Pedal Taps\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1695 (M3 size)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the M5×0.8 size, see our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-taps-1695-copy\"\u003eM5 frame tap\u003c\/a\u003e. For the BSA bottom-bracket shell, see the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/set-of-adapters-and-taps-bsa\"\u003eBSA tap set\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. Thread taps are a general-machinist tool that Unior makes for the broader hand-tool catalog and adapts to bike-specific thread sizes for the cycling line. Same hardened tool-steel and same heat-treatment as the rest of the tap family.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe right time to chase a frame thread is the moment a new bolt feels gritty going in, not after it strips. Two minutes with the right-pitch tap before bolting in fresh hardware is the cheapest insurance against a stripped thread an hour later. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers thread-chase and other workshop work that quietly saves cranks, frames, and customer trust: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"M3","offer_id":34378814783532,"sku":"616077","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1695.jpg?v=1642724925"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-tap-cutters-1697-1","title":"Bottom Bracket Tap Cutters BSA","description":"\u003cp\u003eA BSA BB tap is a serviceable item. The cutting teeth are what chase the thread, and after enough cuts they lose the sharp edge that lets them feed through a paint-fresh shell cleanly. The 1697.1 BSA cutters are the replacement pair, sized to the 1697 tap holder, so a shop that's wearing cutters on a busy bench can swap them in without buying a new complete tap set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1697.1 BSA tap cutter set is the BSA-thread cutting end of the 1697 BB tap system. The pair comes in matched right-hand and left-hand cuts (R for non-drive, L for drive), with the same 1.37″ × 24 TPI BSA pitch as the original 1697 cutters. Mount them into the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bsa-bottom-bracket-tap-holder-1697-2-4\"\u003eBSA tap holders\u003c\/a\u003e, put the holders on the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi\"\u003emodular handles\u003c\/a\u003e, and the system is ready for the next shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUse cases\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReplacement.\u003c\/strong\u003e When the original 1697 cutters are dull beyond resharpening. The cutting teeth take the working load; once they round off, swarf comes off as chunks instead of ribbons, and that's the cue to swap.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConfigurable kit.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you already own a 1698 Italian tap system and need BSA capability, buying the BSA cutters and the BSA tap holders is enough to chase BSA threads with the same handles you already have. The modular pattern is designed for this kind of bench expansion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBSA-threaded BB shells (1.37″ × 24 TPI)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bsa-bottom-bracket-tap-holder-1697-2-4\"\u003eBSA Bottom Bracket Tap Holder 1697.2\/4\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrives through the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi\"\u003emodular frame-prep handles 1695.1\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: 1.37″ × 24 TPI (BSA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair: one right-hand cutter (non-drive), one left-hand cutter (drive)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Right-hand BSA tap cutter, left-hand BSA tap cutter. Tap holders and handles sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The taps themselves are the working face of the BB-prep system; everything else (holders, handles, frame) is structure. Selling them as a replaceable pair is the same logic that drives the rest of the modular frame-prep catalog.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePaint film is the first thing a fresh cutter pair eats through, and it's also the thing that takes a real bite out of cutting-edge life. On a heavily-painted shell, the first quarter-turn pass passes through paint, not metal; the cutter edge sees abrasive paint film, not the cleaner cut of bare thread. Keeping a worn-but-not-retired pair around for that first paint-clearing pass extends the life of the sharper replacement pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe mount-orientation safety check before each install: cutters carry a TIGHTEN or R\/L stamp on the body, and the stamp has to face the side of the shell the cutter will work on. A drive-side (left-hand thread) cutter mounted on the non-drive holder cuts in the wrong direction; it either won't bite or galls the shell threads. When a cutter starts producing chunky swarf instead of ribbons, it's done; sharpening BB tap cutters isn't a workshop operation, so order the replacement pair and rotate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe BSA-shell walk-through covers paint film, swarf morphology, and the dual-tap simultaneous-drive setup that keeps the cutters parallel through the shell: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"BSA","offer_id":34381850542124,"sku":"617310","price":225.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1697.1.jpg?v=1648784296"},{"product_id":"suspension-fork-seal-driver-1702","title":"Suspension Fork Seal Driver - 1702","description":"\u003cdiv\u003eNew, improved, and available in more sizes!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eWe've taken our wildly popular seal drivers and made a few changes to make them more compatible with flangeless seals. We've also laser-etched the size onto the tool instead of printing it like we used to, ensuring that the sizing will be easily read down the road instead of smudging off like it used to.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"30","offer_id":39531322638380,"sku":"627753","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"32","offer_id":39531322671148,"sku":"627754","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"34","offer_id":39531322703916,"sku":"627755","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"35","offer_id":39531322736684,"sku":"627756","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"36","offer_id":39531322769452,"sku":"627757","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"37","offer_id":39531322802220,"sku":"629034","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"38","offer_id":39531322834988,"sku":"629035","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"40","offer_id":39531322867756,"sku":"627758","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Suspension-Fork-Seal-Driver.jpg?v=1732111205"},{"product_id":"crown-race-setter-1683-5a","title":"Crown Race Setter - 1683\/5A","description":"\u003cp\u003eA new fork install ends with one of two outcomes. Either the crown race seats square and the headset preloads cleanly, or the race seats cocked, the headset rocks for the life of the fork, and the rider feels it every time the steerer loads under braking. The Crown Race Setter 1683\/5A separates the outcomes. The job is mechanically simple: drive the race down the steerer onto its seat, square and seated fully. The difficulty is that square and fully seated are exactly what you cannot easily verify after the fact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe setter is a sleeve sized to the steerer with an internal shoulder that bears on the crown race. Drop the setter over the steerer until the shoulder sits on the race, then strike the setter's top face squarely with a hammer. The race slides down onto the seat with each hit and seats fully when it bottoms out. The sleeve keeps the race aligned with the steerer's axis through the entire travel; you cannot drive it cocked.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe pair this tool with the Unior 819A Dead Blow Hammer. The dead-blow head transfers force without rebound, which means the second strike lands where you intended and not three degrees off. A claw hammer bounces back and tilts the race; a brass hammer does better but still rebounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e2022 update\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2022 generation extended the main tube to 380 mm, which covers any current MTB or hybrid steerer plus long tandem steerers. We also changed the finish from black phosphate to zinc, dropping the oil-wipe maintenance the phosphate finish wanted to stay rust-free on the bench. Same lifetime warranty as before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAdapters included for crown races of 1″, 1 1\/8″, 1 1\/4″, and 1 1\/2″. Tapered steerers run through the same setter; pick the adapter matched to the race size at the crown.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMain tube length: 380 mm (2022 update)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdapter sizes: 1″, 1 1\/8″, 1 1\/4″, 1 1\/2″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFinish: zinc plating (2022 update from black phosphate)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecommended hammer: Unior 819A Dead Blow Hammer\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWarranty: lifetime\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Main tube body, full set of crown-race adapters for the four sizes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1683\/5A's lifetime warranty is the corporate guarantee on a tool that gets used once per fork install and has to last a workshop a career.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou'll feel the change in the hammer's report when the race seats; the dull thud goes solid. Stop hitting at that point. A few extra hits past full seating doesn't make the race more seated; it just transmits force into the fork's crown, which is the one place on a fork you don't want to be pounding without a reason. If the race seats partway and stops, the seat may need cleaning rather than more force. Pull the race off, wipe the seat with a clean rag, and try again. Forcing a race onto a contaminated seat is how seats get gouged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe setter is the third tool in a chain (fork prep, old-race pull, new-race set, bearing press, star nut) that runs every frame-and-fork build. The full chain is documented in our walk-through: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":39796311097388,"sku":"626268","price":129.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Crown-Race-Setter.jpg?v=1732111399"},{"product_id":"1699-5-4p-wrench-for-bottom-bracket-facing-tool-guide-bsa-ita","title":"Wrench for Bottom Bracket Facing Tool Guide - 1699.5\/4P","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1699.5\/4P is the small flat-steel wrench that tightens the facing guides of the 1699 BB facing tool into the shell. It's a specific piece for a specific job: seating the threaded BSA or Italian guides flat against the BB shell face so the facing operation runs from a solid reference. Generic adjustable wrenches don't fit the guide flats cleanly; this one does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wrench engages the machined flats on the outside of the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bsa-bottom-bracket-facing-guide-1699-4bsa\"\u003eBSA facing guide\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-guide-copy\"\u003eItalian facing guide\u003c\/a\u003e and transmits the torque needed to bottom the guide against the shell face. Two tightening passes are common on a fresh setup: hand-thread the guide until it bottoms gently, then quarter-turn with the 1699.5\/4P to seat the outer face flat against the shell face. Repeat on the second guide. Both guides should sit flat-and-square once the wrench is used; that flat seating is what the 1699 facing tool registers against.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wrench is sized only for the 1699 facing guides. It is not a general-purpose BB wrench; the flats it engages live specifically on the guide bodies of the 1699 BSA and Italian variants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/products\/bsa-bottom-bracket-facing-guide-1699-4bsa\"\u003eBSA Bottom Bracket Facing Guide 1699\/4BSA\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-guide-copy\"\u003eItalian Bottom Bracket Facing Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUsed as part of a complete \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e setup\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eType: small flat-steel wrench for facing-guide retention\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: tightening BSA \/ Italian facing guides into the BB shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: steel, flat profile sized to the guide flats\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One 1699.5\/4P wrench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. A small wrench for a specific accessory is the kind of piece that makes the difference between a complete frame-prep kit and a kit that almost works. Reaching for an adjustable wrench, an offset crescent, or a small pliers to tighten the facing guide is how guide flats get rounded; once the flats round, the guide is harder to back out and harder to seat next time. The dedicated wrench is the cheapest insurance against that wear pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eResist the temptation to over-torque the guide. The guide should seat flat-and-square against the shell face, but the threads holding it there don't need to be tightened past hand-snug plus a quarter-turn with the 1699.5\/4P. Over-torquing the guide doesn't make the facing operation cleaner; it does make the guide harder to back out cleanly after the facing pass is done, and on aluminum or thin-wall shells it can deform the shell face the guide is supposed to register against.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the wrench in the 1699 facing kit, not in the general workshop drawer; it's small, easy to lose, and the only correct fit for the guide flats. A shop running both BSA and Italian facing operations uses the same wrench across both, so one wrench is enough for the whole 1699 system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe BB-prep pillar walks through the full sequence (chase, mount guide, face) with the wrench step framed in its role: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":39987750567980,"sku":"626471","price":3.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1699.5_4p.png?v=1657902727"},{"product_id":"tube-cutter-360-6a","title":"Tube Cutter - 360\/6A","description":"\u003cp\u003eA tube cutter is the right tool for cutting metal tubing where a hacksaw would leave a ragged edge. The cutter rolls a hardened cutting wheel against the tube while applying inward pressure; the wheel scores the tube's outer surface, and as you rotate the cutter the score deepens until the wall is cut through. The result is a clean, square edge with no chips and no fragments inside the tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 360\/6A Tube Cutter is sized for the tubing a working bike shop typically encounters: hydraulic-brake-line tube (copper or steel braided overlay with internal poly), Kool-Stop-style frame protector tubing, certain accessory mounting tubes, and any other steel, aluminum, copper, or inox tubing up to 2 mm wall thickness. The 4-roller body keeps the tube centered against the cutting wheel as you rotate the tool, which keeps the cut perpendicular to the tube axis without wandering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow the cutter works in practice\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePlace the cutter around the tube at the cut line. Engage the cutting wheel with the ergonomic knob; turn the knob clockwise to advance the wheel against the tube. With light pressure on the wheel, rotate the cutter around the tube once. Advance the wheel slightly, rotate again. Continue until the cut is through. Don't over-tighten the wheel: too much pressure flattens the tube or causes the wheel to dig in unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cutter has a built-in deburring tip that handles the inner-edge burr left by the cut. Slide the tip into the freshly cut tube and rotate to remove the burr. The result is a tube edge that's ready to seat against a fitting without restriction from a sharp burr.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to reach for the tube cutter vs. the hacksaw\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTube cutter:\u003c\/strong\u003e for thin-wall metal tubing where the cut edge needs to be square and clean (brake lines, copper or aluminum accessory tubing)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHacksaw:\u003c\/strong\u003e for thicker steel sections (steerers, posts), for carbon fiber (use the ceramic blade), and for any cut that doesn't need to be perfectly square\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cutter and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/hacksaw-400-750b-us\"\u003ehacksaw\u003c\/a\u003e are complementary tools; neither replaces the other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCuts copper, aluminum, inox (stainless), and steel tubing up to 2 mm wall thickness\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e4-roller centering body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eErgonomic knob for cutting-wheel advance\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInstant wheel change\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBuilt-in deburring tip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpare cutting wheel stored in handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSteel threaded insert (for longer life)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 360\/6A\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 360 tube-cutter line is part of Unior's broader industrial hand-tool catalog, with the bicycle-workshop subset sized for the tubing thicknesses bike shops typically encounter. Same hardened-cutting-wheel construction as Unior's industrial-scale tube cutters, scaled for the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common error with a tube cutter is over-tightening the cutting wheel on the first pass. Light pressure, multiple rotations, gradual advancement; that's the rhythm that gives a clean cut. Crushing the wheel into the tube doesn't speed the cut; it just deforms the tube and ruins the cutting wheel. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers cutting and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default","offer_id":40173067534380,"sku":"626187","price":35.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/360_6a.png?v=1648671756"},{"product_id":"tube-deburring-tool-363a","title":"Tube Deburring Tool - 363A","description":"\u003cp\u003eAfter cutting a tube, the cut edge has a burr; a sharp lip where the cutting wheel or hacksaw teeth pushed metal outward. The burr is a problem because it restricts flow inside the tube (for fluid-carrying tubes like hydraulic brake lines), it makes the tube hard to seat against a fitting (the burr won't pass through the fitting's bore), and it's a cut hazard for a mechanic handling the tube. The Tube Deburring Tool 363A removes both the inside and outside burr in one operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 363A is small; about the size of a marker; but the working ends do the work the cutting wheel can't. One end has cutting blades sized for inside-of-tube deburring; the other handles outside-of-tube deburring. Both ends are made from special tool steel, oil-hardened, which means the cutting profile stays sharp through years of bike-shop use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow to use it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter cutting a tube (with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/tube-cutter-360-6a\"\u003eTube Cutter 360\/6A\u003c\/a\u003e or a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/hacksaw-400-750b-us\"\u003ehacksaw\u003c\/a\u003e):\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFor the inside-of-tube burr: place the deburring tool's blade end inside the freshly cut tube and rotate. The blades shave the inside burr off in 1-3 rotations.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFor the outside-of-tube burr: place the outside-deburring end over the tube and rotate the same way. Shorter cuts here; usually 1-2 rotations is enough.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plastic housing with the ribbed surface gives finger grip during rotation. The cutting blades engage softer materials (aluminum, copper, brass tubing) easily; steel tubing takes a few more rotations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhy a dedicated deburring tool vs. a file or sandpaper\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA file can deburr the outside edge of a tube cleanly, but it can't reach the inside. A round file can reach inside if the tube is large enough, but the file leaves cross-hatched marks; the deburring tool leaves a smooth shaved edge. For tubing that needs to seat against a fitting at a precise dimension, the smooth shave is the better finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor brake-line work specifically (where the inner-tube edge has to seat against an olive or compression-fitting bore), the deburring tool is the right tool. A small inside-tube burr that survives an installation will cut into the olive on the first compression and create a leak.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInside and outside cutting blades\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpecial tool steel, oil-hardened\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePlastic housing, ribbed for grip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 363A\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 363A is part of Unior's broader tube-and-pipe service catalog, designed for the trades that work with hydraulic and pneumatic lines daily. The bicycle workshop's brake-line and accessory-tube work fits the same use case at the same quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single best discipline for tube cutting in a bike shop: deburr immediately after the cut, not later. A burred tube that travels to the bench, gets bumped against the bench top, and then gets deburred has spent that time leaving sharp metal flakes inside the tube. Deburr at the cut, brush the chips out, then handle. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers cutting, deburring, and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default","offer_id":40173068419116,"sku":"626249","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Tube-Deburring-Tool.jpg?v=1769079569"},{"product_id":"crown-race-puller-1614-4bi-us","title":"Crown Race Puller - 1614\/4BI-US","description":"\u003cp\u003eA crown race that's been pressed onto a steerer for ten years and a thousand wet rides doesn't come off easily. The cheap method is a slot-headed screwdriver and a hammer, walked around the race until it lifts. The cheap method gouges the crown seat. A gouged crown seat means the new race won't seat squarely either; the headset rocks for the life of the fork, and the only fix at that point is a new fork. The Crown Race Puller 1614\/4BI-US replaces hammer-and-screwdriver with a controlled mechanical pull that leaves the seat unmarked.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe puller bush slips over the race. Tighten the clamping nut to lock the bush onto the race face. Then turn the spindle, and the spindle's threads back the bush off the steerer in a straight axial motion, pulling the race off the seat with it. No percussion, no chisel marks, no chance of getting the screwdriver wedged sideways under the race. The pull happens at a controlled rate, so if the race is reluctant you can feel exactly how much force the spindle is taking and back off if you need to hose the seat with penetrating oil before continuing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1614\/4BI-US covers the four steerer \/ crown-race sizes that span every modern road and MTB fork:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 1\/8″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 1\/4″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 1\/2″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuspension forks, rigid forks, road, MTB, gravel, hybrid; the puller's bush set covers all of them. The only fitment outside the puller's coverage is the rare oversized tandem steerer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible steerer sizes: 1″, 1 1\/8″, 1 1\/4″, 1 1\/2″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: premium flex plus carbon steel (Unior's house-grade designation for premium cycling tools)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSurface finish: blackened per DIN 50938\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperation: spindle-driven mechanical pull (no hammer needed)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Puller body, spindle, clamping nut, full bush set for the four steerer sizes above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1614's body is forged from premium flex plus carbon steel and finished to DIN 50938; the spec language matches what Unior corporate publishes on its premium tool line, and the DIN reference is the citable industry detail that separates Unior's finish from generic “blackened” claims. A puller that will outlive every fork that passes through your shop is the design intent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe crown race rarely comes off cold. Hit the race-and-seat junction with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight before you reach for the puller. Once the spindle is loaded, turn it in steady half-revolutions and pause to listen; a race that's working free makes a soft tick as it breaks contact with the seat, while a race that's stuck makes a higher-pitched bind. Pause at the bind, hit it with more oil, and let it sit another fifteen minutes before resuming.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe full crown-race-service workflow (when to pull, how to set the new race, and how the puller pairs with the matching setter) is in our walk-through: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-head-tube-and-crown-race\"\u003eFrame prep: head tube, crown race, and star nut work →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":40406978199596,"sku":"626270","price":399.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Crown-Race-Puller.jpg?v=1732111518"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-bearing-press-kit-1721bb","title":"Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Kit - 1721BB","description":"\u003cp\u003ePress-fit bottom brackets behave the way they're supposed to only when they're installed straight. A bearing pressed in cocked, even by a degree or two, runs with side-load on the bearing race; the bearing rolls rough out of the box, develops a flat spot on the load side within a few hundred miles, and starts the creak-knock-replace cycle that gives press-fit BBs their reputation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1721BB is the kit that takes the geometry guess out of the install. The press-rod centres the drift to the BB shell; the drifts are sized to the bearing's outer race so the press load lands on the race surface, not on the seal or the cage. The result is a square install on the first try, every time, without the part-of-bearing damage that makes press-fit BBs unforgiving.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it's used\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIdentify the BB standard in the frame (BB30, PF30, BB86, BB92, BSA30 press-fit, etc.) and select the matching drift from the kit. The kit ships with drifts sized to the most common press-fit standards, packaged in a tray that shows immediately whether anything is missing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThread the press rod through the BB shell from the non-drive side. Place the appropriate drift over the bearing on each side. Tighten the press rod to draw the drifts toward each other; the bearings press into the BB shell at matched depth, both sides simultaneously. The simultaneous double-side install is what keeps the bearings square to each other; pressing one side at a time and then the other lets the second bearing pull misaligned to the first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePress the bearings to the manufacturer's depth. For most current press-fit BBs, that's flush to the shell shoulder; for some Trek and Cannondale designs, a small offset is specified. Verify against the frame's published spec before pressing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBB30 \/ PF30 \/ PF30A (press-fit 30 mm spindle, 42 mm shell)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBB86 \/ BB92 (press-fit 24 mm Shimano-pattern spindle)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMost other current press-fit BB standards using common drift sizes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot for\u003c\/strong\u003e threaded BBs (BSA, BSA30 threaded, T47, Italian); for those use the appropriate notched-cup wrench like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/16-notch-bottom-bracket-wrench\"\u003e16 Notch External BB Wrench (1609\/2BI-US)\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePress rod and drifts:\u003c\/strong\u003e premium flex plus carbon steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e chrome-plated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrift sizing:\u003c\/strong\u003e common press-fit BB standards (BB30, PF30, BB86, BB92, BSA30 press-fit)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e press rod, drift set sized to common standards, packaging case for organised storage\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1721BB is the kit that takes a press-fit BB install from a guess to a procedure; the simultaneous double-side press is what separates a bearing that lasts the design life from one that develops a flat spot in the first month.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA creak from a press-fit BB isn't always the bearing. Before pressing in a fresh BB, clean the BB shell threads (or shell bore, on press-fit) thoroughly and inspect the bore for ovality with calipers. A worn or oval shell will reproduce the creak on the new BB regardless of how square the press is. If the bore is worn past spec, the next step is a frame-warranty conversation with the manufacturer rather than another BB install.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the diagnostic order on BB-area noise (what to rule out before assuming the BB is the source), see \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/creaky-bottom-bracket-check-these-first\"\u003eCreaky bottom bracket? Check these first →\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":41189132763180,"sku":"629167","price":229.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/Bottom-Bracket-Bearing-Press-Kit.jpg?v=1732110825"},{"product_id":"master-bench-tray-2-frame-and-fork-tools","title":"Master Bench Tray #2 - Frame and fork tools","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe frame-and-fork service tray from Unior's SOS bench-tray system — laser-cut foam that holds every tool to its own silhouette, so a missing tool reads as foam rather than a hopeful search through the rest of the drawer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow the SOS tray works\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam inserts are produced in-house at Unior's facility in Slovenia, with each tool silhouette cut to size and printed with the tool's shape. Set the tray in a drawer and the layout audits itself: at a glance you can see what's in use, what's missing, and what's ready to grab. The foam shell measures 564 × 364 × 30 mm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it fits\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tray drops into the 990WD7 wide tool chest and the 2600-series Unior workbenches the cabinet integrates into, sized for the bench-integrated drawer slot. A shop can build a bench up one service category at a time, and the empty foam shell is available separately for re-fitting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the frame-and-fork tray — the frame and fork repair tools for the bench. See the product photo for the current tool layout; Unior updates tray composition as the catalog evolves.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43199239553068,"sku":"628648","price":455.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/set2-2600c_23628648_23image_1024.jpg?v=1781733897"},{"product_id":"hanger-genie-2-0-hanger-alignment-tool","title":"Hanger Genie 2.0 Hanger Alignment Tool","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe derailleur hanger is the part of the bike most likely to bend. It's a sacrificial alignment piece: a soft aluminum bracket that bolts the rear derailleur to the frame and is built to deform first when the bike falls on its drive side. Once it's bent (even a fraction of a degree) every shift on the cassette becomes a small fight. The cable pulls the derailleur to where the index command says, but the derailleur arrives a few millimeters off the cog the rider asked for. Modern 11- and 12-speed drivetrains punish even half a millimeter of misalignment with sloppy shifts. The Hanger Genie 2.0 brings the hanger back to where the drivetrain expects it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat changed in the 2.0\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2.0 is the second generation of our hanger alignment tool, redesigned around the parts of the original that wore: the head and the axle interface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWelded head with sealed bearing thread-in axle.\u003c\/strong\u003e The thread-in axle on the original Hanger Genie carried a service bearing; on the 2.0 the bearing is sealed and runs in a welded head. Smoother under load, longer service interval.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eExtended thread-in axle\u003c\/strong\u003e provides additional clearance, which matters specifically on modern full-suspension frames where the chainstay yoke crowds the hanger area.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLockable measuring gauge.\u003c\/strong\u003e Set the gauge to a measurement, lock it, reposition the tool around the wheel without losing the reference. The original gauge had to be re-set at each rotation; the lock saves a real amount of bench time across a hanger session.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRotating bottom part\u003c\/strong\u003e clears the frame and accessories during rotation, so you don't have to remove the wheel or fight the chainstay to swing the tool to the next reference position.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eImproved tolerance\u003c\/strong\u003e on every machined surface vs. the original 1602\/2.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2.0 fits bikes with the most common wheel sizes:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e26″\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e27.5″ \/ 650B\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e29″ \/ 700\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRoad, gravel, MTB, e-bike, hardtail, full-suspension; the tool's measurement procedure is the same across the entire fleet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible wheel sizes: 26″, 27.5″\/650B, 29″\/700\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAxle: thread-in, sealed bearing in welded head\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGauge: lockable measuring gauge with storage clips on the body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBottom part: rotating, for in-frame clearance during measurement\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eForm factor: compact, foldable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Tool body, sealed-bearing thread-in axle, measuring gauge with storage clips.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 2.0's welded-head-with-sealed-bearing design is the kind of small refinement that turns a tool we recommended into a tool we now keep on our own bench. The original Hanger Genie remains in the catalog for shops that want a simpler entry; the 2.0 is the daily driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe hanger is rarely the only thing out of true. Before you call a bent hanger fixed, run a quick gauge check on the rear dropouts with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-and-fork-end-alignment-gauge-tool\"\u003eDropout Alignment Gauges 1692\/4\u003c\/a\u003e. If the dropouts are off, the hanger will check straight against gauges that are themselves measuring from a crooked reference. You'll fix the hanger to match a frame that isn't square, and the bike will still shift badly. Hanger after dropouts; never the other way around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe why-and-when of mech hanger work, and where the Hanger Genie 2.0 fits into the rear-end-true workflow, is in our Tech Tips: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/how-to-save-a-bent-mech-hanger\"\u003eHow to save a bent mech hanger →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43996535849004,"sku":"629818","price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/HangerGenie2.0HangerAlignmentTool.jpg?v=1737556959"},{"product_id":"suspension-top-cap-socket-anodized-aluminium-26","title":"Suspension Top Cap Socket","description":"\u003cp\u003eSuspension fork top caps are the small hex-headed lid that seals the fork's air-spring chamber or compression-damper assembly. Service the fork and the top cap comes off; reseat the fork and the top cap goes back on. The work is routine, but the cap itself is the most-overlooked vulnerability in the workflow: a standard deep-well socket on a low-profile top cap engages only the cap's outer edge, and as you put torque into the socket the cap deforms under the contact patch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Suspension Top Cap Socket is the purpose-made tool for these caps. It's CNC-machined from aluminum billet, anodized red for visibility on the bench, and dimensioned specifically for the low-profile hex shapes that suspension top caps use. The socket has no chamfer at the engagement edge; most general-purpose deep-well sockets do, and the chamfer is what introduces play in the engagement on a shallow hex cap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat \"no chamfer\" actually changes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA standard socket has a small bevel (chamfer) at the entry of the hex recess. The bevel makes the socket easier to drop onto a fastener. On a normal fastener, the chamfer is irrelevant because the fastener's hex extends deep enough into the socket that the working engagement is well past the bevel. On a low-profile top cap, the fastener's hex is so shallow that the chamfer takes up most of the engagement length, and there's very little flat-face contact left to transmit torque cleanly. The result on a stuck cap is either rounded cap edges or a socket that slips off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe no-chamfer design means the full hex engagement length sits flat against the cap face. Combined with the precision-machined inner dimensions, the socket transmits torque without play and without deforming the cap. Even on a stuck cap that's been over-tightened in past service, the engagement holds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhy short height\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost suspension top caps sit flush or slightly proud against the fork's crown surface. A tall deep-well socket overhangs past the cap face by 20–30 mm, and during wrenching the socket can rock off-axis (especially when applying high torque). The short-height design of the 1783 line keeps the socket centered on the cap throughout the service.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhy aluminum\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAluminum is softer than the steel of the top cap, which means the socket marks (slightly) under heavy load rather than the cap marking. For shop work where the goal is to protect the cap's finish, this is the right trade; the socket is the consumable. Anodized red for visibility against the bench's working surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat it accepts\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-190-1-1abi-us-copy-copy\"\u003e1\/2\" ratchet\u003c\/a\u003e, torque wrenches at 1\/2\" drive, or a fixed-handle like Unior's Pro Socket Handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCNC-machined aluminum billet\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRed anodized\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNo-chamfer socket design\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShort socket height\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1783 (size varies by socket diameter; see variant)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1783 suspension top cap socket line is Unior's purpose-built answer to the low-profile top cap problem; most suspension manufacturers don't publish a recommended tool, and shops working with general-purpose sockets discover the cap-deformation issue the hard way. The 1783 design solves it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single best diagnostic for a deformed top cap is to check the cap's outer edge for \"rounding\" or \"spread\" before reaching for any tool. If the cap shows previous damage, expect the next service to be harder than the last; the 1783's flat-face engagement is sometimes the only way to remove a previously over-rounded cap. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers socket selection and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"23","offer_id":44351297421356,"sku":"629822","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"24","offer_id":44351297388588,"sku":"629823","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"26","offer_id":44351297355820,"sku":"629824","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"27","offer_id":44351297323052,"sku":"629825","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"28","offer_id":44351297290284,"sku":"629826","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"30","offer_id":44351297224748,"sku":"629827","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"32","offer_id":44351297257516,"sku":"629828","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/1783_629822_image_1024.jpg?v=1747219303"},{"product_id":"frame-taps-1695-copy","title":"Frame Taps M5","description":"\u003cp\u003eM5×0.8 is the most common bicycle-frame thread. It holds bottle-cage bosses, the bolts on most stem clamp faces, certain water-bottle accessory mounts, and the M5 hardware on disc-brake adapter plates. When an M5 thread on a frame stops accepting a bolt cleanly, the fix is almost always a thread chase rather than a thread repair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1695 Frame Tap M5 chases an existing M5×0.8 thread without cutting new metal. The cutting edges follow the existing thread pitch and major diameter, removing paint overspray, corrosion, or burred-up material that's blocking the thread. A clean M5 thread takes a fresh bolt at hand-torque without grit; a chased thread restores that feel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to chase an M5 thread\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBefore installing or replacing bottle-cage hardware on a frame that's been painted, repainted, or stored damp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter a stem-clamp bolt has been over-torqued past spec, distorting the thread profile (chase the female thread; replace the bolt)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBefore mounting a disc-brake adapter on a frame's M5 mounting holes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter corrosion in a damp-storage environment has built up in unused bottle-cage threads\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA chase is not a repair for stripped threads. If the thread is gone (the bolt cuts new threads into the surrounding alloy), the fix is a thread insert; the chase tap won't restore it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUse with the magnetic handle\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1695 Frame Tap pairs with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003emagnetic Handle for Pedal Taps 1695\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e. The magnetic-collet engagement holds the tap square to the work, which matters on M5×0.8 because the pitch is fine enough that a slight angle on the first turn cuts the thread off-axis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eM5×0.8 chase tap\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHardened tool-steel cutting edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSquare-shank engagement, compatible with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003e1695\/4BI Handle for Pedal Taps\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 1695 (M5 size)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the M3×0.5 size, see our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-taps-1695\"\u003eM3 frame tap\u003c\/a\u003e. For the BSA bottom-bracket shell, see the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/set-of-adapters-and-taps-bsa\"\u003eBSA tap set\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1695 tap family draws from Unior's broader machinist-tool catalog, which manufactures thread taps in dozens of pitch sizes for the industrial trade. The bicycle-frame subset is the selection that matters in a working bike shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA bottle-cage boss that's seen years of damp storage is the most common M5 thread to need a chase. Two seconds with the tap before installing the cage saves the customer a returned bottle and the shop a callback. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers the thread-chase workflow and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"M5","offer_id":44140802736172,"sku":"616078","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1695.jpg?v=1642724925"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-tap-cutters-1697-1-copy","title":"Bottom Bracket Tap Cutters ITA","description":"\u003cp\u003eItalian-threaded BB shells (36 × 24) live mostly on Italian heritage frames (Colnago, De Rosa, Bianchi, older Pinarello road frames) and on a small set of premium builds that adopted the standard for character reasons. The 1697.1 Italian tap cutters are the matched replacement \/ kit-conversion pair for chasing those threads cleanly. The cutting teeth are sized to M36 × 1.058 mm (24 TPI), and a single pair handles both sides of the shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eItalian BB shells differ from BSA in one workflow-relevant way: both sides of the shell are right-hand thread. The non-drive and drive sides both back off counterclockwise from their respective ends; both taps turn the same way in. The 1697.1 Italian cutter pair is sized to that thread and goes into the Italian tap holders (1697.2\/4 ITA), which sit on the modular handles like the rest of the frame-prep family.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUse cases\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReplacement.\u003c\/strong\u003e When an existing Italian cutter pair has lost its working edge. Italian shells are less commonly serviced than BSA in North American shops, so cutters tend to last longer per pair; still, on a busy Italian-specialist bench they wear like any other consumable cutting edge.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConfigurable kit.\u003c\/strong\u003e Pairing the Italian cutters with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-tap-holder-1697-2-4-copy\"\u003eItalian tap holders 1697.2\/4\u003c\/a\u003e is the route into Italian BB service for a shop that already owns the BSA system. Same modular handles; only the cutters and holders change.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eItalian-threaded BB shells (M36 × 24 TPI, both sides right-hand)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-tap-holder-1697-2-4-copy\"\u003eItalian Bottom Bracket Tap Holder 1697.2\/4\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrives through the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi\"\u003emodular frame-prep handles 1695.1\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: 36 × 24 TPI (Italian)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair: two right-hand cutters (both sides right-hand on an Italian shell)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Two Italian thread tap cutters. Tap holders and handles sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The Italian thread is a smaller fraction of the catalog's BB-prep volume than BSA, but a shop that services Italian heritage road frames needs the correct cutters regardless of frequency; carrying the variant is the difference between accepting that work and turning it away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe both-sides-right-hand pattern is where mechanics trained on BSA most commonly misstep. There is no left-hand tap to worry about, and the muscle memory of “drive-side cuts counterclockwise from the drive side” does not apply. Both taps turn clockwise into the shell from their respective ends. If a mechanic is alternating between BSA and Italian work, slowing down to verify the thread standard on the frame before mounting cutters into holders saves a galled shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eItalian BB shells also tend to need less aggressive paint-film clearing than BSA on factory carbon frames; many Italian heritage frames are steel with thinner thread-protection paint than mass-produced carbon. Light cutting oil and slow rotation produce clean ribbons quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe full thread-chasing-then-facing procedure is in the BB shell pillar; the Italian thread runs the same sequence with the spec swap: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"ITA","offer_id":44140828327980,"sku":"617590","price":222.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1697.1.jpg?v=1648784296"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-facing-guide-copy","title":"Bottom Bracket Facing Guide Italian","description":"\u003cp\u003eFor Italian-threaded BB shells, the facing operation runs the same sequence as BSA: chase the threads, mount a guide into the chased shell, then run the 1699 facing tool against the outer shell faces. The Italian Facing Guide is the thread-matched pair of guide inserts that handle the second step on Italian shells (M36 × 24 TPI, both sides right-hand thread).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA pair of Italian-pitch threaded inserts that screw into a chased Italian BB shell and present the flat coaxial mounting surface that the 1699 facing tool registers against. Both inserts are right-hand thread; one seats from each side of the shell, bottoming against the shell face. Once both are mounted, the 1699 frame passes through, and the cutter cuts each face square to the bore the guides registered against.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide is what turns the shell's own thread geometry into the facing tool's setup reference. The cutter does not find its own coaxial line; the guide pair establishes it, and the cutter follows. Italian shells use the same approach as BSA, with the thread spec swap and the same-direction-both-sides simplification.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eItalian-threaded BB shells (M36 × 24 TPI)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMates with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/frame-for-1699-bottom-bracket-facer-1699-2-4\"\u003eFrame for 1699 Bottom Bracket Facer 1699.2\/4\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePart of a complete \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e setup, with the Italian guide replacing the BSA guide pair\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: 36 × 24 TPI (Italian)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair: two right-hand thread inserts (both sides right-hand on an Italian shell)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFunction: threaded reference inserts for the 1699 BB facing tool, Italian-thread variant\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTightening: use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/1699-5-4p-wrench-for-bottom-bracket-facing-tool-guide-bsa-ita\"\u003e1699.5\/4P facing-guide wrench\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Two Italian-thread guide inserts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The Italian guide variant covers the smaller fraction of threaded BB work that comes through North American shops, but the precision spec is identical to the BSA pair; the geometric reference is what the bearings care about, and the guide's mounting accuracy is what determines whether the cut comes out square. Same tight thread tolerance, same flat outer face, sized to the Italian spec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eItalian guides spend most of their bench life off the bench. A shop that services Italian shells a few times a year wants the guides stored cleanly when they're not in use; thread protection (a wipe of light oil, a labeled storage bag) is the difference between guides that thread in hand-smooth on the next Italian build and guides that fight the chase because they've picked up bench dust or oxidation in storage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth inserts should reach the shell face by hand-threading first; if hand-threading binds, the shell threads need another pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-tap-cutters-1697-1-copy\"\u003eItalian tap cutters\u003c\/a\u003e before the guide goes in. The guide is a precision reference, not a tap; forcing it past damaged thread does damage to both pieces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eItalian BB shell prep runs the same procedure as BSA with the thread-spec swap, and the BB-shell pillar walks through the sequence in order: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"BSA","offer_id":44140830294060,"sku":"626470","price":32.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Italian","offer_id":44140830326828,"sku":"626469","price":33.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1699.4bsa.jpg?v=1642720678"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-tap-holder-1697-2-4-copy","title":"Bottom Bracket Tap Holder Italian","description":"\u003cp\u003eFor Italian-threaded BB service, the 1697.2\/4 Italian tap holder is the structural link between the Italian-pitch cutters and the modular handle. Italian shells run 36 mm × 24 TPI with both sides right-hand thread; the holder is built to the same retention spec as its BSA sibling, but sized for the Italian cutter geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat this piece does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Italian-pattern holder accepts an Italian-pitch tap cutter at the working end and the modular frame-prep handle at the drive end. A full Italian BB chasing operation needs two holders running simultaneously, one per side of the shell, with both cutters turning clockwise into the shell from their respective ends. The holder's job is to keep the cutter coaxial under load, transmitting the mechanic's torque cleanly into the thread chase without introducing angular slop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHolds \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-tap-cutters-1697-1-copy\"\u003eItalian-pitch tap cutters 1697.1\u003c\/a\u003e (36 mm × 24 TPI, paired)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCouples to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-modular-frame-prep-tools-1695-1-4bi\"\u003emodular frame-prep handle 1695.1\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLives in the same modular family as the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/taps-t47\"\u003eTaps T47\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePattern: Italian thread (paired use, one holder per side of the shell)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarries: 1697.1 Italian tap cutter (sold separately as a pair)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrive: square-drive interface to 1695.1\/4BI modular handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e One Italian tap holder. Italian cutters and handle sold separately; a complete chasing operation requires two of each.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. Italian BB service is a smaller fraction of the workshop catalog than BSA, and the holder is the piece that makes the catalog cover both standards without making the bench twice as crowded; same handle, same modular pattern, only the cutter \/ holder pair changes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Italian holder is mechanically identical to its BSA sibling in the way it interfaces with the handle, which is exactly why it's easy to grab the wrong one on a multi-thread bench. Mark or shelve the Italian holders separately from the BSA holders; the cutter pitch only loads correctly into the matched holder, and mounting a BSA cutter into an Italian holder (or vice versa) is the kind of mistake that produces a galled cutter and a damaged shell before anyone notices.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe mechanical retention spec to watch on a holder in service is the same regardless of thread standard: if the cutter rocks visibly in the holder under finger pressure, the holder has lost its working fit. Inspect the holder-cutter retention each time the cutters come off, not just before the first install of the day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe direction-swap is the move to internalize when switching between BSA and Italian work; the BB-prep walk-through frames both standards side by side, so the mechanic can see the BSA mixed-direction layout next to the Italian both-RH layout in one place: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"Italian","offer_id":44140834160684,"sku":"626466","price":26.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1697.2_4.jpg?v=1642721523"},{"product_id":"bottom-bracket-tap-1698-copy","title":"Bottom Bracket Tap 1697 BSA","description":"\u003cp\u003eBSA (1.37″ × 24 TPI) is the threaded BB standard our mechanics see most often on North American benches, and the 1697 is Unior's complete tap set for chasing it. Two thread directions live inside a BSA shell: right-hand on the non-drive side, left-hand on the drive side. Both have to cut cleanly before a cup torques in without binding. The 1697 ships as a paired chasing tool that runs both sides at once, so the drive-side and non-drive-side taps stay parallel through the shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1697 is the assembled BSA BB tap set: paired tap cutters in the correct thread directions, locked into a guide frame, driven by twin handles working simultaneously. Running both taps at the same time keeps them coaxial through the shell, which is the difference between threads that come out parallel-and-clean and threads that come out skewed enough to bind a cup at install.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRun the taps through the shell after the frame comes back from paint, after a frame swap, or any time you want to confirm the BSA threads are clean enough to torque cups in without binding. The taps don't cut new threads in unthreaded material; they chase existing threads, removing paint film, anodize buildup, and minor thread damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBSA-threaded BB shells (1.37″ × 24 TPI)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAll steel, aluminum, and titanium BSA shells; carbon shells with threaded inserts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePairs with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bottom-bracket-facing-tool-1699\"\u003eBottom Bracket Facing Tool 1699\u003c\/a\u003e for shell facing in the same setup\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: 1.37″ × 24 TPI (BSA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair: one right-hand tap (non-drive), one left-hand tap (drive)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrive: twin handles, modular handle pattern shared with 1694, 1698, 1699, and Taps T47\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Right-hand BSA tap cutter, left-hand BSA tap cutter, twin handles, guide frame.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. BSA is the threaded standard that most Unior tool-purchase decisions land on for North American shops; the 1697 is the front-line tap set for the BB thread the bench sees first and most often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCutting oil on each tap before it enters the shell is the cheap insurance against galling. Run both handles simultaneously, slow and steady, with both mechanics watching the swarf coming off; chunky chips mean the tap is dragging and you need more cutting oil and a quarter-turn reverse to break the chip. The swarf wants to come off as a continuous ribbon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThen there's the drive-side direction trap: BSA drive-side is left-hand thread, marked L on the tap, and it cuts when you turn it counterclockwise from the drive side. Forcing it the wrong direction on a paint-fresh frame is how taps get bent or shells get galled. Read the tap stamp before you reach for the handle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFull BSA-shell walk-through (chasing threads first, then facing the shell, with feed control and chip-pattern diagnostic): \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"1697 BSA","offer_id":44140846317612,"sku":"626475","price":316.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/1697-us.jpg?v=1642720939"},{"product_id":"set-of-adapters-and-taps-bsa","title":"Set of Adapters and Taps BSA","description":"\u003cp\u003eBSA; British Standard Cycle; is the threaded bottom-bracket standard that's been in service on bicycles since the early twentieth century. The shell is 68 mm wide on most road and gravel frames (73 mm on most MTB), with threads of 1-3\/8\" × 24 TPI, right-hand thread on the non-drive side and left-hand thread on the drive side. When those threads go bad; paint overspray after a frame respray, corrosion after damp storage, contamination from a stuck BB cup; the chase tap restores them without cutting new metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Set of Adapters and Taps BSA chases both the drive-side (left-hand thread) and the non-drive-side (right-hand thread) BSA threads. The set includes the two thread taps and two adapters that mate the taps to a standard tap handle. Use with our \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003eHandle for Pedal Taps 1695\/4BI\u003c\/a\u003e for the leverage and alignment a BSA shell chase requires.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to use the BSA chase\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA frame that's been resprayed, where paint overspray has filled the BB shell threads\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA frame that's been stored damp for a winter, where corrosion has built up in unused threads\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA frame where the previous BB has been seized in place and left thread distortion when it was finally removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA new frame from a smaller manufacturer where the threads weren't cleaned at the factory\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe chase removes only paint, corrosion, and burred metal. It does NOT cut new threads. If the BSA shell's threads are genuinely stripped (the BB cup is cutting new threads into the alloy), the fix is a thread insert or; in some cases; a frame retirement. The chase tap is the cleanup tool, not the repair tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePair with the right handle\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe BSA chase taps engage the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003e1695\/4BI handle\u003c\/a\u003e via the standard square-shank interface. The handle's magnetic-collet grip holds the tap perpendicular to the shell face throughout the cut, which matters because BSA's thread pitch is fine enough that an off-axis chase cuts the thread out of round.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat's in the set\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTwo BSA thread chase taps (left-hand drive-side, right-hand non-drive-side)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTwo adapters that connect the taps to the magnetic handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: 1-3\/8\" × 24 TPI (BSA standard)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSides: left-hand drive (1.3\/8\" L) + right-hand non-drive (1.3\/8\" R)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/handle-for-pedal-taps\"\u003e1695\/4BI Handle for Pedal Taps\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: see configuration\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The BSA chase tap set is part of Unior's bicycle-specific thread-tool catalog (alongside the pedal-thread and frame-thread chase tools). The thread profiles are sized to Unior's machinist-tool specifications, which differ from generic hardware-store taps; a workshop-grade tap cuts the thread profile to a tighter tolerance, which is what gives the chased thread its clean feel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe single best test of whether a BSA shell needs a chase: thread the BB cup in by hand. A clean BSA accepts the cup smoothly to the bottom; a contaminated one stops or feels gritty. Spend the 30 seconds chasing the thread before you force the cup. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers thread-chase work and the rest of the workshop hand-tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44349187457068,"sku":"626487","price":249.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/1697.3_626487_image_1024-Square.jpg?v=1747218525"},{"product_id":"master-bench-tray-3-frame-preparation-tools","title":"Master Bench Tray #3 - Frame preparation tools","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe frame-preparation tray from Unior's SOS bench-tray system — the facing, reaming and thread-prep tools for new-frame and overhaul work, held in laser-cut foam where every tool has its own cut silhouette.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow the SOS tray works\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach silhouette is cut to size in-house at Unior's Slovenia facility and printed with the tool's shape, so the drawer audits itself: a gap in the foam shows the moment a tool is out. The foam shell measures 564 × 364 × 30 mm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhere it fits\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tray is sized for the 990WD7 wide tool chest and the 2600-series Unior workbenches it integrates into, dropping straight into the bench-integrated drawer slot. The empty foam shell can be ordered separately for re-fitting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrame preparation is precision work — facing a head tube or bottom-bracket shell square, chasing threads true — and keeping the tools laid out in order keeps that work fast and repeatable. See the product photo for the current tool layout.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44790856384556,"sku":"628651","price":1126.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/set3-2600c-us_23628651_23image_1024.jpg?v=1781733898"},{"product_id":"taps-t47","title":"Taps T47","description":"\u003cp\u003eT47 is the newest threaded BB standard in wide use. Chris King pioneered the spec: a 47 mm thread diameter, 1.0 mm pitch, right-hand on the non-drive side and left-hand on the drive side. Trek adopted it as T47i (internal bearing) on a generation of high-end road and gravel bikes; Pinarello adopted it as T47a (external cup). The standard solves two problems at once: wider shell for larger spindle diameters, and threaded engagement so it can't develop the creak of a press-fit shell. The Taps T47 chase the M47×1 threads in those shells the same way the 1697 and 1698 chase BSA and Italian threads in their respective shells.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the tool does\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe taps are a matched pair: a right-hand tap for the non-drive side, a left-hand tap for the drive side. Run them through the shell threads after the frame comes back from paint, after a frame swap, or any time you want to confirm the threads are clean enough to torque a cup into without binding. The tap doesn't cut new threads in unthreaded material; it chases existing threads, removing paint film, anodize buildup, and minor thread damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe taps are compatible with Unior's existing BB tap holders: the 1697 BSA-pattern handle and the 1698 Italian-pattern handle. Same modular frame-prep series as the BB Facing Tool 1699 and the Head Tube Reamer 1694; one handle drives the whole kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT47 shells (M47 × 1.0 mm thread)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAll current T47 metal shells (Trek T47i, Pinarello T47a, Chris King T47 cups)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarbon T47 shells with metal threaded inserts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair with Unior tap holders 1697 (BSA-pattern handle) and 1698 (Italian-pattern handle)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThread: M47 × 1.0 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePair: one right-hand tap (non-drive), one left-hand tap (drive)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaterial: durable tool steel for long service life\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible holders: 1697, 1698 modular tap holders\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMade in Slovenia by Unior\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Right-hand tap, left-hand tap. Tap holder (1697 or 1698) sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eMade in Slovenia, since 1919\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. T47 is a younger standard than most of the BB shells the Unior catalog services; the T47 taps are the catalog's response to Chris King's standard becoming a real production fitment. The shared-handle decision means a shop adding T47 service to its bench doesn't add another full toolkit; it adds two taps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlways use cutting oil. The thread is finer than BSA's 24 TPI, and a dry tap on T47 threads will gall and lift small chips into the shell, which then bind the cup install. A drop of cutting oil on each tap before it enters the shell is the cheap insurance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're chasing T47 threads on a frame coming back from paint, run the tap until the thread cuts cleanly; meaning the swarf coming off is a smooth ribbon, not chunks. Stop, reverse a quarter-turn to break the chip, then continue. Force always produces worse results than patience here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe BSA-shell walk-through (chasing threads, facing the shell, feed control) is the T47 cousin in our Tech Tips library; same procedure, different thread spec: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/frame-prep-threaded-bottom-bracket-shells\"\u003eFrame prep: threaded bottom bracket shells →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45406585192492,"sku":"629771","price":179.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/1695.5_629771_image_1024.jpg?v=1775053228"},{"product_id":"over-axle-bearing-press-set","title":"Over Axle Bearing Press Set","description":"\u003cp\u003eCurrent hub designs put a step in the axle where the bearing sits. The axle is fatter through the bearing seat (12 mm or 15 mm or 17 mm or 20 mm, depending on the standard) and steps down at the shoulder so the bearing's inner race butts against the shoulder rather than against the hub shell. The design is structurally clean and stiff, but it defeats the standard bearing press. A drift sized to seat against the bearing's outer race can't pass over the axle's larger-diameter section, so the standard 1721 drift set has nowhere to land. The Over Axle Bearing Press Set is the adapter set that extends the 1721 press into shouldered-axle hub territory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHow it works\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe set adds two pieces to every press stroke: an axle-side adapter (sized to clear the axle's largest diameter) and a bearing-side adapter (sized to the bearing's OD). The axle adapter slides over the axle, the bearing adapter sits on the bearing's outer race, and the press shaft drives them together. The bearing seats on its shoulder without the press hardware ever touching the axle's stepped section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe set covers the full modern axle envelope and the bearing ODs paired with each axle size:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable\u003e\n\u003cthead\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eAxle diameter\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBearings covered\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/thead\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 mm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6000, 6900\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12 mm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6001, 6801, 6901\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e15 mm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6802, 15267, 6902, 6002\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e17 mm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6803, 1728, 6003\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e18 mm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6903\/18\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e20 mm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6804, 6904\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach axle and bearing size gets a pair of adapters (axle-side and bearing-side), so the set covers every combination without forcing a mid-job tool swap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpacers\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe set includes spacers for the 10 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm, and 20 mm axle envelopes:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpacer 10 × 40\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpacer 15 × 45\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpacer 17 × 45\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpacer 20 × 45\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe spacers make up the working length needed when the bearing seat is recessed deep in the hub shell and the standard adapter won't reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWorkshop-side notes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEach drift is laser-etched with its size, so identifying the right adapter at the bench is a glance instead of a measurement. The etching survives the cleaning cycles that wear painted labels off.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe set is an \u003cstrong\u003eextension\u003c\/strong\u003e of the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bearing-press\"\u003eBearing Press Set 1721\u003c\/a\u003e, not a standalone tool. The 1721 press body is required; the over-axle set adds the adapter coverage on top.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe set works with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/bearing-press-quick-release-handle-1721-3\"\u003eQuick-release Handle 1721.3\u003c\/a\u003e for shops running daily bearing changes on shouldered-axle hubs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The over-axle set is the upgrade that takes a standard 1721 press into the modern thru-axle MTB and gravel hub world. Built to the same dimensional tolerance as the original drifts, the adapters extend the press without changing the load path or working spec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe biggest workflow gain from the over-axle set is the laser-etched labels. We used to keep a chart taped above the press bench mapping bearing numbers to drift sizes; with the labels stamped on the adapters themselves, the chart goes away. Match the bearing number on the new bearing to the etched number on the adapter, drop it on the axle, and press. Where this fits in the press workflow: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/bearing-and-headset-service\"\u003eBearing and headset service: a workshop guide →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFAQ\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does the Over Axle Bearing Press Set add to a standard bearing press?\u003c\/strong\u003e It adds paired adapters that let the press work on hubs with a stepped (shouldered) axle. The axle-side adapter clears the axle's largest diameter and the bearing-side adapter sits on the bearing's outer race, so the bearing seats against its shoulder while the press hardware never contacts the axle. It extends the 1721 press rather than replacing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich axle and bearing sizes does it cover?\u003c\/strong\u003e It covers the modern through-axle range — 10, 12, 15, 17, 18 and 20 mm axle diameters — and the cartridge-bearing outer diameters paired with each axle size (for example 6902 and 6002 on a 15 mm axle, or 6804 and 6904 on a 20 mm axle). Each axle-and-bearing combination gets its own axle-side and bearing-side adapter pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo I still need the 1721 bearing press?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. This is an adapter set, not a standalone press. The adapters ride on the 1721 press shaft and hardware; they are what let that press reach shouldered through-axle hubs a standard drift can't seat against.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45406585716780,"sku":"629894","price":199.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/files\/1721oa_629894_image_1024.jpg?v=1775053616"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/collections\/1698-us.jpg?v=1778587715","url":"https:\/\/uniorusa.com\/collections\/frame-and-fork.oembed?page=2","provider":"Unior USA","version":"1.0","type":"link"}