{"product_id":"ratchet-wrench-1-2","title":"Ratchet Wrench 1\/2\"","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe 1\/2\" drive ratchet is the heavy-torque ratchet in a working bike shop. Pedal removal at full breakaway torque on a stuck pedal. Large hub axle nuts on freehub-driver service. BB sockets where the cup is corrosion-seized and needs more than hand-torque to free. Anywhere the 3\/8\" or 1\/4\" doesn't have the body strength or the handle leverage for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1\/2\" Ratchet Wrench has 75 pawls and a 4.8° engagement angle. Same fine-engagement pawl mechanism as the 3\/8\" version, sized for higher torque. The 260 mm handle gives the leverage that the heavier work calls for; long enough to break a stuck pedal, short enough to fit a working bench's tool drawer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhat the 1\/2\" handles\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePedal removal on a customer bike where the pedal has been on for years and is corrosion-stuck\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLarge hub axle nuts (over 19 mm typical) on cup-and-cone hubs and certain freehub-driver bodies\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBB cup install\/removal when the cup is corrosion-seized\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWheelbuilding stand axles and certain crown-race tools that use 1\/2\" drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAny other workshop job where the 3\/8\" body or handle isn't sufficient\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor most bike-specific socket work, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet\"\u003e3\/8\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the right starting point. For small fasteners, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ratchet-wrench-190-1-1abi-us-copy\"\u003e1\/4\"\u003c\/a\u003e. Most shops own all three; each has a clear job the others can't do as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eSpecs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1\/2\" square drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e75 pawls, 4.8° engagement angle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e260 mm handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrop-forged chrome-vanadium body\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eChrome plated\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDouble-component handle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArticle number: 190.1\/1ABI-US (1\/2\" variant)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eBuilt in Zreče, Slovenia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and sponsors professional road and mountain-bike race teams. The 1\/2\" ratchet is forged from heavier-stock chrome-vanadium than the 3\/8\" and 1\/4\"; same steel grade, same heat-treatment process, scaled for the higher working torque. The pawl mechanism is the same fine-engagement 75-pawl design, sized for the larger drive square.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePro tip from our mechanics\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe breakaway-torque pedal is the most common job that the 1\/2\" handles where the 3\/8\" struggles. A pedal that's been on for five years has typically galvanized into the crank's threads; the 260 mm handle gives the leverage that breaks the galvanization without breaking the ratchet's drive. If the pedal won't move with the 1\/2\" at full hand-leverage and a pipe over the handle, the next step isn't more leverage; it's heat, penetrating oil, and a longer wait. Our \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eworkshop hand tools guide\u003c\/a\u003e covers heavy-torque tool selection and the rest of the workshop tool layer: \u003ca href=\"\/blogs\/tech-tips\/workshop-hand-tools-every-bike-shop-needs\"\u003eWorkshop hand tools every bike shop needs →\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Unior","offers":[{"title":"1\/2\"","offer_id":44140811059244,"sku":"625107","price":61.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0012\/5786\/5260\/products\/190.1_1abi-us.jpg?v=1642728248","url":"https:\/\/uniorusa.com\/products\/ratchet-wrench-1-2","provider":"Unior USA","version":"1.0","type":"link"}