Wooden Base for Pro Truing Stand

The Pro Truing Stand mounts to the bench through two 8 mm bolt holes at 268 mm center-to-center, which works when the bench has a top you're willing to drill into. When it doesn't (a finished wood bench, a stainless-steel bench, a rental shop space where modifications aren't in the lease) the 1689.9 wooden base is the answer.

The base is sturdy beech plywood with rounded edges. The truing stand bolts to it through pre-drilled holes (mounting bolts included), and the base sits on the bench surface without scratching the wood top or the stainless-steel finish. Both V1 and V2 generations of the Pro Truing Stand fit; the bolt-hole pattern is shared.

Two integrated trays in the base hold the small tools that otherwise get lost during a truing session: spoke wrenches, the nipple driver, the dishing tool's centering point. Pull the wheel off the stand, put the wrenches in the tray, mount the next wheel; no parts-tracking detour. The Unior Made For Work logo is burned into the wood.

Compatibility

• Truing stands: Pro Truing Stand 1689 V1 and V2 (same bolt-hole pattern).
• Bench surfaces: any flat surface; the base is the buffer between the stand and the bench.

Specs

• Material: beech plywood, rounded edges.
• Pre-drilled mounting holes; matching bolts included.
• Two integrated tool trays.
• Branded with “Made For Work” Unior corporate phrasing (burned into the wood, not a sticker).

Built in Zreče, Slovenia

Unior has been forging hand tools in Zreče since 1919, and is the official technical partner of multiple World Tour and downhill teams. The 1689.9 wooden base is a small piece of the wheelbuilding workflow that solves a practical workshop problem: the stand needs a stable platform, and the bench top doesn't always want to be it. A wood base is the friendlier-to-the-bench solution; it's also the more portable one, since the stand and the base together can be moved as a unit between work sessions or out to an event setup.

Pro tip from our mechanics

The trays are not optional storage; they're part of the workflow. We keep the spoke wrenches we use on the most common nipple sizes in one tray and the more-specialized wrenches (Mavic, DT Squorx, aero-bladed holder) in the other. Pull the wrench you need, true the wheel, return the wrench to the tray. The system fails the moment you set the wrench down somewhere else; it stays sound as long as the wrenches go back in the trays. The rest of the truing workflow is in How to true a bike wheel →