Crankset and Bottom Bracket Tools

Eliminate creaks and ensure a smooth spin with Unior USA’s professional crank and bottom bracket tools. This collection covers every standard, from classic square taper and splined crank pullers to modern external bearing wrenches and specialized aluminum sockets for T47, BSA30, and Shimano systems. Whether you’re pressing bearings or removing stubborn lockrings, our European-made bicycle tools provide the precision and leverage needed for a perfect fit without damaging your components.

  • Square-taper, ISIS, and Octalink cranks

    These arms thread onto the spindle and need a crank puller to come off. The Square Taper & Splined Crank Puller w/Handle engages the M22 x 1.0 extractor cavity and backs the arm off with its own handle, so you are not chasing a wrench across the bench. It covers square taper plus splined ISIS and Octalink in one tool, which is most of what you meet on older road and mountain bikes.

    Square-taper, ISIS, and Octalink cranks 
  • Hollowtech II and SRAM DUB cranks

    Modern external-bearing cranks skip the puller entirely. On Shimano Hollowtech II the non-drive cap is a bearing-preload adjuster that loosens counter-clockwise, and the two pinch bolts carry the load; SRAM DUB cranks have no pinch bolts and hold the arm with one 8 mm crank-arm bolt. The Hollowtech II Crank Bolt Tool fits the Shimano cap; the Crank Cap Tool for SRAM DUB fits the DUB self-extracting cap. Shimano sets its cap at 0.7 to 1.5 Nm, which is hand-tight.

    Hollowtech II and SRAM DUB cranks 
  • Bottom bracket cups and bearings

    External threaded cups read 16 notches at roughly 44 mm across the current Shimano and SRAM standard, and the 16 Notch External Bottom Bracket Wrench takes a 3/8 inch ratchet or torque wrench to install them to the 35 to 50 Nm band. For press-fit shells, the Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Kit seats bearings square so they do not creak or run rough.

    Bottom bracket cups and bearings 

How the Unior crank and BB tools compare

ToolInterfaceJobPrice
Square Taper & Splined Crank Puller w/Handle - 1661.3/4P-USSquare taper, ISIS, Octalink (M22 x 1.0)Pulls threaded crank arms off the spindle$24.99
Hollowtech II Crank Bolt Tool - 1609.1Shimano Hollowtech II / GXP capSets and removes the bearing-preload cap$3.99
Crank Cap Tool for SRAM DUBSRAM DUB capSets and removes the DUB self-extracting cap$26.99
16 Notch External Bottom Bracket Wrench - 1609/2BI-US16-notch external cup, ~44 mm ODInstalls and removes external threaded BB cups$39.99
Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Kit - 1721BBPress-fit BB shellsPresses fresh bearings in square$229.99

Crank and bottom bracket FAQs

What tool do I need to remove a crankset?

It depends on the crank type. Square-taper, ISIS, and Octalink arms thread onto the spindle and need a crank puller, like the Square Taper & Splined Crank Puller w/Handle, which engages the M22 x 1.0 extractor cavity and backs the arm off. Hollowtech II and SRAM DUB cranks need no puller: on Hollowtech II, loosen the two pinch bolts, unthread the non-drive cap with the matching crank cap tool, and the arm slides off; on SRAM DUB, back out the 8 mm crank-arm bolt and its self-extracting cap pushes the arm off. Check which interface your crank uses before buying a tool, because a puller does nothing on a self-extracting crank and vice versa.

Which way does a Hollowtech II or SRAM DUB crank cap loosen?

The non-drive preload cap on a Shimano Hollowtech II crank loosens counter-clockwise when viewed from the non-drive side. The cap is a bearing-preload adjuster, not a structural fastener, so it sets the bearing tension while the two pinch bolts on the non-drive arm carry the load. Shimano gives the cap 0.7 to 1.5 Nm, which is hand-tight, and the pinch bolts 12 to 14 Nm each. SRAM DUB is different: it has no pinch bolts, one 8 mm crank-arm bolt holds the arm at 54 Nm, and the self-extracting cap around that bolt is reverse threaded. The older 'left-hand thread on the drive side' rule refers to the bottom bracket cup, not the crank cap.

How do I know which bottom bracket wrench fits my external cups?

Match the wrench to the notch count and the cup outside diameter. The current Shimano and SRAM external standard is 16 notches at roughly 44 mm OD, which the 16 Notch External Bottom Bracket Wrench fits, covering Hollowtech II, SRAM GXP and DUB external cups, FSA Mega Exo, and Race Face Cinch. Praxis M30 cups use 12 notches at about 46.3 mm, and some other 30 mm-spindle cups use 12 notches at about 47.8 mm, which take separate wrenches. The wrong wrench rounds off the notches, so confirm the count and OD before applying force.

What torque should I use to install a bottom bracket and crank bolts?

Hollowtech II external BB cups install at 35 to 50 Nm and SRAM DUB threaded cups at 50 Nm (SRAM's 34 to 41 Nm figure is for GXP cups); use a 16 Notch External Bottom Bracket Wrench on a torque wrench. For cranks, a square-taper center bolt is 35 to 50 Nm and ISIS or Octalink bolts are 40 to 50 Nm. Hollowtech II non-drive pinch bolts are 12 to 14 Nm each; SRAM DUB has no pinch bolts, and its single crank-arm bolt takes 54 Nm. The Hollowtech II preload cap is set far lower, 0.7 to 1.5 Nm, because it only tensions the bearings. Always defer to the component manufacturer's published number when one is printed on the part.

Do I need a bearing press for a press-fit bottom bracket?

Yes. Press-fit shells such as BB30, PF30, BB86, and BB92 hold the bearings by interference fit, so they have to be pressed in square rather than threaded. A Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Kit drives the bearing home along the shell axis without cocking it, which is what prevents the creak and rough rotation that come from a bearing seated at an angle. Threaded bottom brackets like BSA, Italian, and T47 do not need a press; they thread in with the matching external cup wrench or socket instead. Knowing whether your shell is press-fit or threaded decides which tool you reach for.