Brake Tools

Dialing in your stopping power is easy with the right set of bicycle tools. Our brake tools collection is designed to help you handle everything from routine pad swaps to precision rotor adjustments. Whether you’re using a truing fork to straighten a bent disc, resetting calipers with a piston spreader, or tightening hydraulic lines with our specialized flare nut wrenches, these tools offer the professional touch your bike deserves. European-made, they’re built to keep your braking smooth, quiet, and reliable on every ride.

Two 2026 spec changes shifted bleed-kit fitment: Shimano Dura-Ace R9300 and Ultegra R8270 levers moved from an M5 to an M7 funnel thread, and SRAM Maven Bronze calipers now seat against a 5.0 mm bleed block rather than the older Code generation's 4.0 mm. The right kit depends on the brake system on the bike, and our compatibility guide walks through what fits each.

2026 bleed kit compatibility guide

Frequently asked questions

Which brake tools do I actually need for hydraulic disc service?

For a full hydraulic bleed you reach for three fitting tools plus a piston spreader. An open-end wrench fits the bleed screw at the caliper, a flare nut wrench fits the compression nut on the line so the slot clears the hose, and a piston spreader backs the pistons fully before new pads go in. Add a rotor truing fork and a rotor wear indicator and you cover the rest of disc service.

What is the difference between a piston spreader and the 2-in-1 disc brake tool?

The Disc Brake Piston Spreader is a single-purpose tapered tool that backs the caliper pistons fully apart to clear fresh pads or a fresh rotor, and its full-thickness body suits bench work. The 2-in-1 Disc Brake Tool combines a piston-spread end with a rotor-truing slot in one body that rides in a jersey pocket. Pick the spreader for the workshop; pick the 2-in-1 for field service.

Which flare nut wrench size do I need for a brake bleed?

It depends on the fitting. The 7/8 mm flare nut wrench (1760/2) suits most road and integrated hydraulic compression nuts and adds a 1/4 inch torque drive for a torque-spec finish, while the 8/10 mm wrench (183/2) covers the larger-diameter lines common on MTB and some current road systems. For the bleed screw itself, the 7x8 mm open-end (110/1) covers both common Shimano sizes.

Will a Unior rotor truing fork fit my disc rotor?

Both Unior truing forks, the original 1666/2DP and the Rotor Truing Fork 2.0 (1666-6), accept rotors up to 2.4 mm thick, which comfortably covers standard road and MTB rotors that top out near 2.3 mm. They true the disc without removing the wheel or caliper. The 2.0 adds laser-cut, heat-treated tool steel with multiple notch angles for higher-volume rotor work.

Should I true my rotor or replace it?

True it when the disc is straight on thickness but rubs from a localized wobble. Because hydraulic pads sit only about 0.25 mm from the rotor at rest, even a 0.5 mm wobble guarantees rub, so a truing fork often fixes the noise. Replace it instead when a rotor wear indicator shows the disc has worn below its minimum service thickness, often around 1.4 to 1.5 mm on Shimano spec. Truing a worn-thin rotor will not save it.

How is a Centerlock rotor removed compared to a 6-bolt rotor?

A 6-bolt (ISO) rotor uses six T25 Torx bolts in a hexagonal pattern, so a Torx driver handles it. A Centerlock rotor uses a single splined lockring at the hub that takes a cassette-tool-pattern wrench, such as the Disc Brake Rotor Lockring Wrench, rather than Torx bolts. The two mounts are not interchangeable without an adapter, so check the hub before ordering.